P1637 and P2103
#1
#2
#5
What is that?
Aso along with this issue, whenever i leave the car, say for over 8hrs, when i try to start the engine it acts as if there is a HPFP issue. Exactly like
#6
It sounds like they're saying that the throttle plate in the intake is not doing what the ECU is telling it to do.
Recently, a number of people in colder climates have been reporting problems where the throttle valve is actually freezing. Water in the air that goes into the intake condenses on the inside of the valve, and then freezes. The throttle plate can no longer move at that point, leading to codes similar to what you are seeing.
But that requires freezing temps, or at least near freezing. 15C is certainly not that! It might be a problem with your throttle valve, then.
What is that?
But that requires freezing temps, or at least near freezing. 15C is certainly not that! It might be a problem with your throttle valve, then.
#7
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#13
sorry for the cryptic response. I was on my IPhone.
The codes are as follows:
P1637 - Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 - Throttle Valve Position Control stuck Temporarily
P3091 - Fuel Rail Pressure
I was speculate that the Throttle control unit issue. However, all three maybe related to the crankcase ventilation. If you are troubleshooting yourself, try to clean/check/change that first.
The codes are as follows:
P1637 - Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 - Throttle Valve Position Control stuck Temporarily
P3091 - Fuel Rail Pressure
I was speculate that the Throttle control unit issue. However, all three maybe related to the crankcase ventilation. If you are troubleshooting yourself, try to clean/check/change that first.
#14
1. Could all of these codes (P1637, P2103, P3091) be related with the HPFP, or are there two type of issues im facing with here? One of the Throttle and another one of the HPFP
2. What exactly is the crankcase ventilation, issue? Can it be checked and how?
3. My main concern is, how should the technician begin to diagnose correctly, because most just have the tendency to start changing stuff until the problem ends. But this method can mean a lot of wasted money!
2. What exactly is the crankcase ventilation, issue? Can it be checked and how?
3. My main concern is, how should the technician begin to diagnose correctly, because most just have the tendency to start changing stuff until the problem ends. But this method can mean a lot of wasted money!
Last edited by genik; 02-03-2015 at 09:17 PM.
#15
I believe the crankcase vent would be the logical place to start. Looks like a $25 part, so that's the good news.
I thought just my MINI dealer randomly changed parts. Maybe it's part of their training plan......
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/show...category=19711
I thought just my MINI dealer randomly changed parts. Maybe it's part of their training plan......
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/show...category=19711
#16
I believe the crankcase vent would be the logical place to start. Looks like a $25 part, so that's the good news.
I thought just my MINI dealer randomly changed parts. Maybe it's part of their training plan......
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/show...category=19711
I thought just my MINI dealer randomly changed parts. Maybe it's part of their training plan......
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/show...category=19711
#17
The crank case regulates the pressure and the fuel mix. Here's an article that explains how to do a quick check
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197
Also, I would check your ECU and see if its in ok shape. Its like a fuse box on the left side inside the engine. Just check to make sure no rust, connections are tight etc. I hope its not that as that gets expensive.
I do have a repair manual at home. If you need a page or two scanned and emailed to you, let me know
All the best
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197
Also, I would check your ECU and see if its in ok shape. Its like a fuse box on the left side inside the engine. Just check to make sure no rust, connections are tight etc. I hope its not that as that gets expensive.
I do have a repair manual at home. If you need a page or two scanned and emailed to you, let me know
All the best
#18
The crank case regulates the pressure and the fuel mix. Here's an article that explains how to do a quick check
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197
Also, I would check your ECU and see if its in ok shape. Its like a fuse box on the left side inside the engine. Just check to make sure no rust, connections are tight etc. I hope its not that as that gets expensive.
I do have a repair manual at home. If you need a page or two scanned and emailed to you, let me know
All the best
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197
Also, I would check your ECU and see if its in ok shape. Its like a fuse box on the left side inside the engine. Just check to make sure no rust, connections are tight etc. I hope its not that as that gets expensive.
I do have a repair manual at home. If you need a page or two scanned and emailed to you, let me know
All the best
If its a bad crank case valve, then i would put that to be a mechanical problem, dont you think?
#19
Mine was just in yesterday for the third time on this. The first time was because the throttle stuck. Towed in, and they cleaned out the intake manifold (09 justa clubbie). The second time they said the moisture was from the valve cover not venting properly and replaced my valve cover.
Today was because there is some random residue in the throttle making it stick.
ugh. up here in northern VT it has been -20 to around 0 for about a week now. this has been coming and going. I have been told to flog my car more to clear it out. "italian tune up" if you will.
I just passed 96K and out of my CPO for a month when it happened. This never happened last year with the same temps, etc.
I want to take this car to 200K, I hope it wont keep happening.
Today was because there is some random residue in the throttle making it stick.
ugh. up here in northern VT it has been -20 to around 0 for about a week now. this has been coming and going. I have been told to flog my car more to clear it out. "italian tune up" if you will.
I just passed 96K and out of my CPO for a month when it happened. This never happened last year with the same temps, etc.
I want to take this car to 200K, I hope it wont keep happening.
#21
I don't remember the codes, but when i pulled them it was "throttle plate permanently stuck" is what the code read on Torque on my phone. The dealership confirmed it. Repair 1 was the cleaning of the intake manifold and throttle plate assy. Repair two was the valve cover, suspecting of being filled with carbon and moisture. I just got it back and they suggested driving it harder sometimes, as 45min of my commute is spent at 2800rpm and 70mph. No load, im guessing is what causes it. I also run 0% ethanol (pure gas), does the E-10 gas have more cleaning agents?
Considering a Diesel MB, BMW, VW or a GM Cruze diesel. I have very few requirements, comfort, MPG's (40+), bluetooth and Tq. In that order.
Considering a Diesel MB, BMW, VW or a GM Cruze diesel. I have very few requirements, comfort, MPG's (40+), bluetooth and Tq. In that order.
#22