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Windshield solvent pump doesn't get power (02-R50)....

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  #1  
Old 02-20-2015, 06:20 PM
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Windshield solvent pump doesn't get power (02-R50)....

Well, actually I see voltage at the pigtail when I depress the lever, so the switch does work. When the pump is hooked to the pigtail the voltage is not there (for either front or rear squirt).... weirdest thing

When I jump the pump motor with an external source she fire's right up so I know the motor is good. F23 fuse is good as are all other fuses.

Where might the relay(s) for the "solvent motor" be? I found the wiper relays under the hood in the box but do not think they have relation to this pump motor


Any experience with this ??
 
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:58 AM
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Over 500 veiws and no reply's so I went digging thru bout everything. I found the relay's behind the driver side kick-panel (2 smaller gray buggers), upon testing power at the fuse(F23)which has a red/violet lead and having it there.... I tested the red/violet lead(s) at the pigtail for the relay's and nothing

I recall the PO speaking of a previous leaky sunroof issue so I pulled the wiring up from next to the carpet and found the issue. Where the single wire (red/violet) join a union to split to two terminals, appears to be corroded from moisture... After jumping these terminals with 12V the pump is functioning off the switch ...... Bingo !!

 
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2015, 04:44 AM
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Just to show what a corroded connection looks like I opened up the splice area to reveal nothing but green dust. I respliced the wires w/ heat-shrink connector and it's good as new
 
Attached Thumbnails Windshield solvent pump doesn't get power (02-R50)....-dscn1725.jpg   Windshield solvent pump doesn't get power (02-R50)....-dscn1728.jpg  
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Old 02-22-2015, 05:49 AM
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Wow good find!
 
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Old 02-22-2015, 06:33 AM
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Great detective work !

Don't forget to check the sunroof drains. Maybe pull up the door cavity seal at bottom of threshold, sometimes water finds its way in though there as the rubber ages.
 
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:07 AM
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Yup..good find...
I suggest you peel back the edges of you headliner, then make sure the drain tubes have METAL SCREW CLAMPS....a zip tie will break..water expands, and snaps them...letting the tube unplug from the drains...leading to the leaks....The leaks can get very $$ when the BCM fails from water or the entire fusebox on the other side fails from corrosion.....
 
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:18 AM
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Great info Tim!
 
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:26 AM
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Thanks guy's ...... I have a Haynes manual book here so I was able to trace the schematic's to find the power leads for this application, right down to the color codes. This book is an excellent tool

I did have the headliner out and recovered it from the water damage it aquired over time, the main board was still in good enough condition so thankfully all it needed was new liner material, really turned out nice.

The 2 front drain tubes were disconnected when I pulled the HL out and I noticed a bit of "scratching" in those general area's as if someone had been in there with a coat-hanger or something, perhaps trying to open the drains and knocked them off in the process??....possibly

Good idea on the metal clamps, wish I'd of thought of that before I used the z-ties .... I did secure the ties right at the edge of the flare on the steel tubes, so I think the water shouldn't hold there to freeze n' expand .... Another thing that helps is this car has a heated garage to stay in
 
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