I had been looking of find out how to fix my P2400 code for "Evaporative Emissions Open Circuit" and could not find any threads with any photos. What I did know is almost always, it is the wire running to the charcoal filter on the gas tank, right in front of your rear wheel, rubbing on the trailing arm, rubbing through and shorting out the circuit, thus throwing the code. I has just that problem and I wanted to share how I fixed it (Your way of fixing it and opinion may vary, this is just the way I did it and not intended to be instructional in any way, you are free to fix the problem as you choose, this is simply informational)and let other people know where to find it, so here goes:

First, the tool list:
17mm Socket
2 inch socket extension
1/2" ratchet
Large Flat Head Screw Driver or trim panel tool as seen below
Utility knife blade
4-6" of small heat shrink
3-4" piece of 18 gauge braided wire
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire Strippers
Wire snips
3M Electrical tape (Not the crap from horrible freight or another discount store, I am talking a $6 roll from HD or Lowes or a electric store that will actually last)
Lighter


1) Put your emergency brake on and the car in gear
2) Put wheel chocks in front of/behind the driver side wheels
3)Crack loose the bolts on the rear passenger wheel
4) Jack up the rear passenger side of the vehicle and support the car with jack stands
5) Remove the rear passenger wheel
6)Pop out the clip from the back side of this tab with your screwdriver or door panel removal tool to get it free when pull it out towards the wheel well to get it free

7) Remove the clip on the trailering arm holding the three sets of wires

8) Unplug the wire from the charcoal canister now that the wire is free, inspect the wire to see where the wire is worn through or corroded. Here is a photo of mine:

9) Now that you have found the problematic area, it will probably be corroded so you need to cut the black tape around the three wires inside the wrap far enough back that you can work on the wire at hand and also far enough back to get a 4-6" piece of heat shrink on it

10)Cut out the problematic, corroded area with the wire snips far enough to get rid of the corroded area:

11) Place your heat shrink in place and fire up your soldering iron
12) Take your 18 gauge stranded wire and splice it into place and solder the wires together
[IMG]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5...tn=-1057185526[/IMG]
13)Place the heat shrink over the entire section you spliced in and use the lighter to shrink it on the wire and seal out the elements

14) Wrap all three wires back together very tightly with the 3M electrical tape. I did this two times and even put more on the wire just before the plastic frame mounting zip tie as this is where it rubs through

15) Place all three wires back into the frame clip and clip it onto the trailing arm
16) Push the frame mounted zip tie back into the frame
17)Plug the wire back into the charcoal canister
18) Put the wheel back on the car and torque the four lug nuts back to factory specs
19) Remove the jack stands
20)Lower the car onto the ground
21) Remove the wheel chocks

Your problem is fixed!

 

Nice. Thanks for the writeup.

 

No problem, I got tired of looking for one! Lol

 

GP0256, thanks for the directions. I followed the wires back and sure enough one of them was rubbed all the way through and snapped. Soldered it all up and sure enough the codes stayed gone.

 

I am always glad to help! Glad it fixed your CEL