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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
I tried to find my answer using various combinations of search terms but couldn't find my answer.
I know I've needed a new clutch for about six months now. I've been babying it for the better part of a year, mashing the clutch for every shift change. Note that slipping into another gear with mashed clutch still allowed me about an inch of clutch pedal travel before the clutch began to engage. Once in a while after clutch was smoothly and fully engaged I would punch it to see if I could make the clutch slip. It never did.
Day of failure:
From a stoplight, mash clutch and slip into 1st, engage smoothly, bring to 15 mph and mash clutch for 2nd. Clutch pedal went spongy, further depression led to a rumbling I could hear and feel in the pedal. (throwout bearing?) Could not shift gears, limped into parking lot, set brake and left engine running.
The pedal only returned halfway. I pulled it back up with my hand. The pedal became stiffer and now feels almost like a brake pedal. Still could not put into any gear. Shut engine off.
Sit a minute, push fob in, mash clutch, push start button. Will not start back up.
My question is: With symptoms outlined above, if I replace and properly bleed the clutch slave cylinder, should the engine turn over with clutch mashed?
Or to put it another way: Where in the starter circuit does it detect that the clutch is pushed in? (Because it's definitely not a N/O momentary contact switch behind the clutch pedal.)
I'm sorry, I couldn't compose a tl;dr for this one.
If you had clattering sounds from the transmission, chances are the trans needs to come out and you need to replace the clutch and throw out bearing.
The slave & master cylinders on the 2nd gen cars don't fail as often as the slaves on the 1st gen cars.
The clutch switch is on the clutch pedal, so if the contact is made the starter lockout will release and allow the starter to crank the engine, you may have knocked the safety switch loose with your foot while mashing on the clutch.
You need to get the car to a qualified shop and have the trans removed and have the clutch & TOB inspected.
Sounds like the release bearing may have got stuck in the transmission. There is a "module" on the clutch master cylinder, this is the "switch" for the starter to work. #6 below and can view it here. So, if the release bearing stuck and you forcing the pedal down may have damaged the internals of the clutch master cylinder, which may be affecting the module and it wont start now. Just a thought and idea for you to look into.
Yes, inside the car, under the dash. We go over how to remove the clutch switch in our Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Replacement DIY. It's the red arrow.
Awesome. Thanks again Pelican. If you're wondering about why I care more about a minimal part than the actual clutch it's because I can get more money for it if I can prove the engine runs. I see 08 mcs's with 90k still fetching 7 or 8 grand. Discount mine for busted clutch, of course.