In the last week or so I've had two rough cold starts. 2007 Cooper S, manual tranny, 99k miles, bought used at 63k miles. First rough cold start, sputtered bad, rpms from 500-1500, was able to goose the throttle and it settled down. Changed spark plugs that I had already bought, might need 1 new coil (a little rusty). I had flashing yellow check engine light during event then it went away.
Episode 2, last night, cold start (75 degrees outside but car sat since Friday, had another rough start except no engine light and no throttle response when trying to goose it. Eventually stalled about 20 seconds after starting it. Restart was immediate and car drive normal for it.
This morning I put torque back on my phone and pulled the codes. I got 300, 301, 302, 303, all cylinder misfire codes. I'm thinking that it is the hpfp but don't want to waste time at dealership if that isn't it. To my knowledge, car has never had carbon cleaned out, no catch can. I've had trouble with dealership and getting records.
Would y'all drop it off at dealership go have hpfp checked or do the carbon clean first and then take it after if problem persists. I have wand and shop vac attachment so I could do it tomorrow as long as I can get engine apart properly. I'm guessing I would need intake manifold gasket if doing that though in write up I read, they don't mention having to replace the gasket. Looking for any and all advise as I don't trust dealership because last time I took it there for aux water pump, they tried to fleece me for all new hoses. They refused to do repair if I didn't consent. After I complained to mini NA, they lied and said repair wasn't done because they had to order part. I was told part was there before dropping car off. Eventually got recall done after Mini NA leaned on them and those same weak hoses are still going 36k later.

 

On my 2011 MCS, when the HPFP was failing, I got low fuel pressure codes in addition to the misfire codes. Give it a few more bad starts. Maybe it will eventually set a low fuel pressure code. I also had (after a few rough starts) a half check engine light, then reduced power warning, and no turbo activity. Had seemingly the same issues a while later, I assumed another HPFP. Dealer diagnosed as a failing coil pack or two. My aftermarket warranty company authorized all 4 coils to be replaced. So far, this seems to have fixed the latest issue. No carbon buildup concerns yet on my N18, but yours being the N14, that certainly could be your issue. I would start with the carbon cleaning....probably needs it anyway. At least an inspection. I think the intake is sealed with o-rings. If they are still pliable, and not completely crushed, may be OK to use those again, but I would probably replace them anyway, if they are available seperately from the intake. Good luck, and respond back with your results/findings.

 

Carbon cleaning , and get the gaskets also linked.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html





Then go to HPFP.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-r56-jcw.html

 

If it has never had a carbon clean up, get one ASAP. Just about every 50,000 miles the intake valves need to be cleaned to maintain optimum engine performance. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. You may have a rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling or single to multiple cylinder misfires. If you have any of these symptoms, check for valve residue build-up. We have a great DIY HERE for more pictures of the process done before walnut blasting was around. If you feel you want to tackle the job yourself and don't want to purchase the blasting tools. You can also find an indy shop that can perform this task if you don't feel like you want to return to the dealer. Use this site HERE to help you.

 

Cleaned valves yesterday and they were way worse than that pictured. Afterwards, car starts, still throwing misfire codes, rough idling, not quite stalling. Despite spending 1-2 hours on each, I wasn't able to get all the carbon, probably 90% of it. My concern is that some of it came loose and gummed up the catalytic converter. I had it towed last night to my local Euro repair shop to see what they say today. I have record that the misfires were happening before carbon clean so I'm hoping that it can be covered under extended warranty.

Before:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t8s4484pfekmfjr/IMG_20160203_130217.jpg?dl=0
After: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dijet6xf9itpu1r/IMG_20160203_130034.jpg?dl=0

 

They look much better. I've seen valves that were absolutely caked, and it looked like there was no passage way for anything to get through. If you're still getting misfire codes and issues, then it may be your HPFP if it hasn't been replaced yet. If it is that, you should qualify for the extended warranty replacement as I believe it's 10 years or 120,000 miles from original in-service date. If the shop suspects it, call your dealer and have them run your vin to see if you qualify, which you probably should. Some info HERE on the warranty. There is a PDF attached file of the extended warranty notice.

 

Yes, I thought about taking it to the dealership to have the HPFP checked but I decided to clean it first. I haven't had good luck with BMW San Antonio and Mini in Austin is too far away. I'm still waiting to hear back from San Antonio Euro to see what they find.

 

Cleaning was a good idea as it is necessary every 50k. It's also the cheapest place to start with misfire issues like yours. So, good job on the clean up again. Now that you have ruled that out and it may be pointing to your HPFP, once you figure out if it is at fault, then you can take a trip to the dealer for hopefully the free work. Otherwise, MINI indy shops are the way to go for anything else, as you know. Anyways, be sure to report back with their findings and hope you get your issue resolved soon.

 

it sounds like the hpfp is going bad, I hope it doesn't leave you stranded in a bad area...been there, done that

 

Update, sorry it took so long. So after I did the walnut shell blasting, I was getting multiple cylinder misfire codes, rough start, rough idle, rough acceleration. Decided to have it towed to San Antonio Euro. They found a couple of vacuum hoses that were cracked and after replacing them, all seems well. I did have 1 rough cold start as soon as I picked it up, so I had them test the fuel pressure on cold start and they said it was fine. I didn't get a number and their invoices are not the most detailed. Car runs better than I ever remember. I did notice when I was digging into the intakes that below the far right (driver side) intake, there was possibly some dried coolant. I'm guessing that is the water pump possibly leaking? I forgot to get a picture or mention it to San Antonio Euro, though considering they opened the intake, you would think they would have seen it. I added coolant a couple of months ago, but level seems OK.

 

Glad it's running much better and things seemed to be all fixed up. Coolant leaking down the left side (driver) of the engine can be from the thermostat, coolant hoses or from the oil filter stand / housing, auxiliary coolant pump or reservoir.

 

If its dried it might be from when it was bled at one time. But if the coolant system was never bled for a cooling replacemnet or flush it might be the first stage of a thermostat housing failure.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hermostat.html