Greetings all - and thanks in advance for thoughts and suggestions.

I've had my 2007 MCS since about August of last year, it has ~93,000 miles on it.

In the last week or so I've had some cold start issues; initially it would just stumble on start button press, but would start on the second try. The past few days, it has taken from 3-6 starts (with some throttle blipping w/ my foot)... once warmed up, I've no problems with either idle speed, power, or any hiccups while driving. Secondary starts during the day go on the first press of the start button.

In doing a bit of googling, it sounds like my problem might be related to the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)...

Not sure why I didn't think to check codes sooner, but I just hopped on via CARLY yielded a few:

Suction tube - code 002B64
Mixture adaptation additive - Code: 002785
Misfire detection cylinder 2 in 4 Firing order - Code 00277F
Misfire detection cylinder 1 in 1 Firing order - Code 002773
Misfire detection cylinder 3 in 2 Firing order - Code 002777

In looking over those codes, it seems that I may need to replace a vacuum hose (or perhaps the valve cover gasket), but not sure about the other four... the last three (seemingly) point towards the HPFP.

I've read that MINI have extended the warranty on the 2007 HPFP to 10 yrs 100,000 miles, so I may be in luck if that is the case - but I figured I'd put this to the community before I made the trek to the MINI Dealership for service.

I've a great local MINI shop that I use for other work - but figured the dealership would be the correct option for the warranty work.

Thoughts on what my issue really is? Should I schedule the appointment with the dealership?

Thanks in advance!

-Will

 

It cant hurt to run it to the Mini Stealership and have them check it out for you, if it is the HPFP they should replace it as well. Have you had your valves walnut blasted (de-coked)? I know misfires are also a symptom of this.

 

Erik,

Thanks for the response - the question I have about carbon build up is how does it usually present? I've had flawless startups, as well as strong power, acceleration, no skips, etc until it started a few weeks back. I'm not used to performance issues springing up so quickly, but I've not owned a MINI before and am new to the "uniqueness" of this fun "motor" (as my Brit friends call it).

I'll give my local stealership (ha! by the way) on Monday and will see what they say. I do think I'll have the carbon clean-out done at some point as well - I do want to stay on top of things.

- Will

 

This is what your valves on the Intake side look like

 

This is what they should look like after cleaning with Walnut blasting. I'm doing this now!

 

@Sstrickstein - nice progress... question - when carbon coking builds up, does performance slowly go away, or is it all of a sudden?

 

I've had similar start-up issues, only upon morning start-up and worse of damp/cold days. Carbon cleaning cleared the issue up 100%. Now, about a month later I'm experiencing HPFP issues which is causing similar symptoms. You can hook up your car to an OBD and check the fuel rail pressure upon start-up. It should register at around 700 psi...mine has recently been registering ~75psi upon start-up. After giving it some gas and taking it for an initial drive it runs and starts up fine for the rest of the day.

 

@GAT - thanks for the great info. I was able to fire up Carly to monitor my fuel rail pressure, tho my readings were in BAR. .75 on startup, around 4.9 - 5.4 after startup and a bit of throttle blipping... Looks like I'm off to the dealership to have the HPFP replaced (still under warranty, hopefully).

Your tip led me to find this clip on specific diagnosis for the HPFP issue -
Thanks again, GAT!

 

No problem. I too had a heck of a time getting mine started this morning. My appointment is this Friday. Good luck.

 

Just about every 50,000 miles the intake valves need to be cleaned to maintain optimum engine performance. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. You may have a rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling or single to multiple cylinder misfires. If you have any of these symptoms, check for valve residue build-up. If you have not done a clean up yet, I highly recommend doing so.

If you get the HPFP replaced you'll still want to do a clean up. If you are DIY savvy and want to tackle the job yourself, but don't have the walnut blasting wand and adapter HERE then I recommend doing our method HERE. This method is how we were cleaning MINI valves before MINI and BMW released the walnut blaster adapter for these engines.

 

GAT,

How did it go? Just dropped mine off this afternoon and picked up a F56 loaner. My appt was for first thing Monday, but they let me drop it off early... Should know Tues or Wed.

- Will

 

Had my HPFP replaced under warranty but they also pointed out that I needed a new vacuum pump, turbo oil line and engine oil cooler filter and housing gaskets. Car runs great after the HPFP, it was definitely causing all the symptoms I experienced. As for the other parts I ordered from ECS and Detroit Tuning and will address each one on my own. Did the vacuum pump yesterday, one of the most tedious jobs ever due to its location but all went well.

How about you? Any update?

 

Good to hear they replaced it under warranty - I don't think they'll be able to even look at my car till later today or tomorrow at the earliest... when I dropped it off they said they were pretty backed up and it might not be till Tues or Wed till they got back to me. Luckily they handed me the the keys to a '15 F56 loaner car, tho it is an automatic...

I sort of expect that my outcome will be similar... that they'll do the HPFP and will come back w/ a list of issues... I'll also tackle most of them myself. Having bought my car about 6 months back when it had 90k on it already... I figured I'd have some work to do.

 

Same here, purchased mine back in September with 56k miles.

The Vaccum pump cost me less than half the price from ECS compared to the dealership. For the turbo oil line and oil filter gaskets they wanted over $1k for parts and labor. The OEM oil line would fail again down the road due to its poor design so I purchased the updated version from Detroit Tuning plus the downpipe gasket/clamp and oil filter gaskets from ECS. Those parts cost me another $100 or so. Part of the reason these parts fail is directly correlated to the high operating temps of the MCS motor. With the money I saved I'm going to get a Manic Tune which (from what I've read) drops the motor's operating temperature by approximately 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ps, if you're going to follow the same route as I, make sure you change or top off your oil and flush your coolant after all the work is complete. It's necessary to do so as there will be some oil mixed in with your coolant. I'm no mechanic but have been following much advice from this forum and using PelicanParts tech articles and so far everything has been going according to plan.

Both Pelican and ECS are GREAT vendors for oem and aftermarket parts. I simply stick with ECS because I've been a customer of their's for the past 10 years with previous vehicles I've owned.

 

Thanks GAT , we love that you have stayed with us.

Also , I am always here to help.

 

My car had the exact same issues @ 47k. My only cousin that's my age has been a Mini tech for 5 years now so I 'know a guy'

I told him what was happening and he knew right away it was the HPFP. We live in different states so I took my car to the dealership in Pensacola and told them I was experiencing a long crank on cold starts. They wanted me to bring the car in for an hour. Three hours later... They recommended that I have my timing chain, tensioner, and guides replaced and my intake ports walnut blasted for the very low low one time price of THREE THOUSAND DOLLARS, and that only then would they be able to tell if my HPFP (free under warranty) was actually bad or not

I drove 5 hours to the dealership where my cousin works and we did the walnut blasting, and did the timing chain kit. That was needed for sure, but my car still wouldn't start first try. It was most definitely the HPFP the whole time. Had it replaced under warranty and it has run great ever since.

 

Did you pay for the timing chain work or was it covered under warranty? If you paid out of pocket you can submit your receipt to BMW USA for full reimbursement. I received a letter yesterday stating that the timing chain warranty was extended, similar terms like the HPFP.

 

GAT,

The verdict is in... well, actually, it was in on Wed. The HPFP was indeed bad, and MINI replaced that gratis.

Then came the rest of the news - "well - we found a few things wrong"

*gulp*

Short version - valve cover gasket leak, suggested I replace the valve cover as well as it has the PCV valve integrated into it... Upper strut mounts are cracking, replace... and oil filter housing also leaking, replace/repair... Grand total roughly $3k from the dealer.

I asked if there were other issues, what did they think of the state of the engine. We decided to have him pull the valve cover and to see what he timing chain, guides, etc looked like (I've only had this car for about 4k miles, bought with 90k about 6 months ago).

He popped the valve cover off to find that the upper guide was broken, so their suggestion, full timing chain service w/ tensioner, guides, chain, etc... another $2k - $3k depending on if they have to search the oil pan for bits and pieces...

Well - we're closing in fast on what I paid for the car in the first place...

I took it past a well respected local MINI/BMW shop (Terry Slather Motors - great experience there). Their diagnosis was similar, prices better, but still leaves me with a similar predicament.

Not a good prize.

But, it is what it is, and suffice it to say that I've been playing with the MINI builder and I'll prob pull the trigger on a build next week... it has been far too long since I've had a new toy in the garage... well, one that is new as well as new to me. Esp since my job's latest project has me driving 50 miles a day (I was working from the house till about 2 months ago). Have loved this R56, but think an F56 may be in my future.

I guess my only question at this point is too see if there are any suggestions on what all I should do to ensure that the car holds up... I'll keep the oil topped off, ensure that I'm not getting after it too much, and I think I'll source just the top guide and a valve cover gasket; and will DIY that bit of the process. I'd prob do more if I didn't need it as a daily driver... (okay, and if I had the "hold the cam in place specialty tools for the timing chain maint).

Any thoughts from the masses?

Once the new car arrives I'll decide if I'll trade it in or see if someone who is mechanically inclined is interested in buying it (with full disclosure of all I know and have learned). Lots of features (including sport suspension, new tires, new brakes, nav w/ updated 2015 maps, Sirius radio, 6 spd, comfort access...) and other than some peeling clear coat near the mini badge on the rear hatch, the paint and body are in pretty great shape.

Thanks in advance,

- Will

 

Yeah I paid out of pocket for all of it, and have receipts for it. I followed the trail of links on here and saved a copy of the claim form, thanks for passing that along though. I'm trying to wrap my mind around the fact that they also want proof of proper maintenance for a seven year old vehicle that's past warranty, that I didn't originally own.

"I have changed the oil on schedule."

 

The valve cover leaking is not uncommon. We have the updated valve cover from MINI HERE. It comes without the logo and warning labels. If you want the MINI logo it's HERE separately.

Upper strut mounts Lemforder brand - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item6
Oil filter housing gasket - http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-8-643-758-M30

As you can see the parts are cheaper than the dealer and if you have the right tools we have tech articles on our site that cover all these repairs, which will save you a lot of money. If you don't you can also find a MINI indy shop that will charge you much less labor than the dealer. Or you could have a friend help you with the help of our articles.

With all of our timing components, depending if you go all Genuine or OEM plarts should only be about $250-$300. We have an article that can help you do this fix or you can find an Indy shop as well.

Timing components here - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2

I can put a quote together for you for all the parts that should be replaced.

Go to our site under MINI > Tech Info (tab at top) > R56 articles. You will see all of what we offer you to help you with these repairs. You can shoot me a PM with the parts that you need/want and I can get you a full quote so that you can see what all will be invested with your own money and time. Otherwise, you can take the parts to an Indy shop by using this site HERE as it will most certainly be less than what the dealer quoted you. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Pelican,

Thanks for the pointers, but as I need this as a daily driver I think any wrenching may need to wait till the new sled arrives... tho I'll peruse the parts and processes and will mull over which to consider... thanks!

- Will