Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Could this be a bad thermostat housing?

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  #1  
Old 02-23-2016 | 05:38 AM
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thinkinmini
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Could this be a bad thermostat housing?

So my 07 MCS seems to be losing a lot of coolant, topped off the tank yesterday, then a 40 mile roundtrip to work and back drained it to below the min line. There's a small puddle underneath the car, right near the catalytic converter (2nd one I guess, not the one on the downpipe), and theres also a lot of coolant splashed along the subframe where the powersteering pump and rack are mounted. There's also a tiny bit of coolant pooled on top the transmission, right near where those cable linkages are snapped into it ( I think they're shift cables maybe?). Does this sound like a classic case of thermostat housing failure? I've yet to get any error codes, but I'm going to scan with my Bluetooth obdII scanner tonight just to check any logged faults. What thermostat housing do you guys recommend, that's cheaper than the "genuine" mini brand?
 
  #2  
Old 02-23-2016 | 08:00 AM
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Yes, its will gush down that back if its leaks too much , also the water pipe can crack also,
Pools on the transmission., did this same thing on my 2007 MCS.


Get the genuine one or the Bremmen version are good. Just what ever is in stock , these sell out fast on our site. 11537534521 KT

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html


 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 02-23-2016 at 12:24 PM.
  #3  
Old 02-23-2016 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by thinkinmini
So my 07 MCS seems to be losing a lot of coolant, topped off the tank yesterday, then a 40 mile roundtrip to work and back drained it to below the min line. There's a small puddle underneath the car, right near the catalytic converter (2nd one I guess, not the one on the downpipe), and theres also a lot of coolant splashed along the subframe where the powersteering pump and rack are mounted. There's also a tiny bit of coolant pooled on top the transmission, right near where those cable linkages are snapped into it ( I think they're shift cables maybe?). Does this sound like a classic case of thermostat housing failure? I've yet to get any error codes, but I'm going to scan with my Bluetooth obdII scanner tonight just to check any logged faults. What thermostat housing do you guys recommend, that's cheaper than the "genuine" mini brand?
Definitely sounds like a thermostat. Typically, they start with a hairline crack which is very hard to see. Has yours ever been replaced and how many miles are on it currently? Genuine is what I'd recommend going with personally.

Genuine http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-7-534-521-INT
Aftermarket options http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item4

Have you done the water pump yet? If you're wanting to tackle all of your cooling system for preventative measures you could get our water pump super kits HERE. The kits include about everything you'll need to do the cooling system job. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2016 | 03:40 PM
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That's exactly where my coolant pooled up when my thermostat started leaking, on top of the transmission on drivers side. That's the case with everyone.
 
  #5  
Old 02-23-2016 | 04:00 PM
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Yep, had it happen on my 2007 , hence. Started talking about this back in 2013.
 
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2016 | 09:57 PM
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Just happened to me. Ecs and pelican both told me it was the thermostat, took it mini and it was. Do t take it to mini. They charged me around 800.
 
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Old 02-29-2016 | 05:54 AM
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Yeah I definitely would NOT go to the dealership. Though I do need to have my hpfp replaced by them soon which is still under warranty til 120k. And I certainly don't have the money to replace all the cooling system components, but I will be ordering the thermostat/housing sometime this week.
 
  #8  
Old 02-29-2016 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by sirr6
Just happened to me. Ecs told me it was the thermostat, took it mini and it was. Do t take it to mini. They charged me around 800.
Glad it was fixed, but yea you can save allot by flowing the DIY's I linked and getting the part from US. I believe I was the first to mention, years ago, to check the transmission top structure for pooling of coolant as this happened to my 2007 MCS back in the day.
 
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2016 | 08:27 AM
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Could this be a bad thermostat housing?-image-2708744951.jpg

Any idea what is this fault code? Which is the damage part?
 
  #10  
Old 03-01-2016 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Club77
Attachment 121733

Any idea what is this fault code? Which is the damage part?
You need to get a reader that can read MINI fault codes. What symptoms are you having? Just a CEL triggered?
 
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  #11  
Old 03-01-2016 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Club77
Attachment 121733

Any idea what is this fault code? Which is the damage part?
Thats a stored code fault by the looks , could be a wire break or mis-connection at the thermostat sensor. I would get a better scanner to read more into it.

Have you inspected all the electrical connections at the thermostat housing
 
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2016 | 05:21 PM
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I will send to workshop to ask them check on the electrical parts. Thanks for the adverse.
 
  #13  
Old 03-01-2016 | 06:11 PM
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On National Back Order

The 521 Thermostats are on national back order still. However, some dealers have them in stock but limited supply and like a back ordered part usually earmarked for work done in/at the shop.

To my knowledge, there is no aftermarket version but some vendors have inventory of this OEM part.
 
  #14  
Old 03-02-2016 | 06:17 AM
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You are welcome Club77

We have an aftermarket version Bremmen and in stock because of the supply issue. Same newer design as Genuine MINI and we warranty it for a year, unlimited miles. If you ever have a issue we are here to help. Genuine one has come in a couple at a time. At this time its looks like they are on BO again.

Linked above and here for other alternatives.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
 
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2016 | 10:23 PM
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I just changed mine last Sunday. It isn't hard at all. I did use the Bremmen model I purchased from Mike at ECS. When you do tackle it, take pics with your phone, access realoem.com for hose placement and orientations, double and triple check your harness plugs to be sure they are plugged in and try not to get frustrated with the clip that holds the water pipe - that was the hardest part of the replacement.
I didn't have the plug on the forward camshaft sensor plugged in all the way and after starting it threw multiple codes. I also had the heater core hoses transposed as both hoses are the same size. And finally my overflow bottle/refill cap failed and the bottle would fill all the way to the top and leak out the cap.
Mike @ ECS was a great help. New cap, corrected the hoses, attached cam sensor plug and used code reader to clear codes. Everything working great now and happy again.
 
  #16  
Old 03-07-2016 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by vballcoach
I just changed mine last Sunday. It isn't hard at all. I did use the Bremmen model I purchased from Mike at ECS. When you do tackle it, take pics with your phone, access realoem.com for hose placement and orientations, double and triple check your harness plugs to be sure they are plugged in and try not to get frustrated with the clip that holds the water pipe - that was the hardest part of the replacement.
I didn't have the plug on the forward camshaft sensor plugged in all the way and after starting it threw multiple codes. I also had the heater core hoses transposed as both hoses are the same size. And finally my overflow bottle/refill cap failed and the bottle would fill all the way to the top and leak out the cap.
Mike @ ECS was a great help. New cap, corrected the hoses, attached cam sensor plug and used code reader to clear codes. Everything working great now and happy again.
Awesome, glad that was it.
 
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2016 | 09:23 AM
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Changed the housing out this weekend, not a hard job at all. Took about 4 hours with numerous breaks.
 
  #18  
Old 04-06-2016 | 09:07 AM
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Congrats on the fix, yea it can take some time. just watch your fingers on those sharp plastic pieces. Mechanical gloves help.
 
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