Trouble removing filter canister?
#1
Trouble removing filter canister?
Has anyone tried to remove the oil filter canister from their car, only to find that it has been grossly overtightened by individual who last installed it?
A few weeks ago was the first time I have removed the canister myself, and it took both hands, a breaker-bar length ratchet, and most of my weight behind the ratchet to get it loose. I have had lug nuts that had less torque on them! I was seriously worried that something other than the canister threads was going to give first. I tried first with the engine warm, and when it wouldn't move, I let it cool completely before trying again. It still was too tight. It felt like 75+ ft-lbs was needed to get it to budge.
I did a drain and fill of the oil in the pan at around 5500, but I did not touch the filter because I didn't yet have a socket that fit. The only time that the canister has been off the car has been for the dealer service at 11,500 miles (per the onboard service indicator.) It appears the dealer let the Samsonite Gorilla put the canister back on when they did the oil change.
When I put the canister back on, I used a torque wrench set to the factory-specified 25nm (between 17-18 ft-lb- it's stamped right on the cap!) That's not much beyond hand tight- certainly waaaay less that was when I took it off.
Before I discuss this with the service manager on my next visit, I want to make sure that this isn't something that is normal- that the canister lid does not become difficault to remove over time, even though it is not overtightened when it is installed. Any thoughts? If I can't trust the dealer to take the same care with my car as I do, who can I trust? I guess the sooner my car is out of warranty, the better- then there will be no reason not to do everything myself, and know for sure it's done right...
A few weeks ago was the first time I have removed the canister myself, and it took both hands, a breaker-bar length ratchet, and most of my weight behind the ratchet to get it loose. I have had lug nuts that had less torque on them! I was seriously worried that something other than the canister threads was going to give first. I tried first with the engine warm, and when it wouldn't move, I let it cool completely before trying again. It still was too tight. It felt like 75+ ft-lbs was needed to get it to budge.
I did a drain and fill of the oil in the pan at around 5500, but I did not touch the filter because I didn't yet have a socket that fit. The only time that the canister has been off the car has been for the dealer service at 11,500 miles (per the onboard service indicator.) It appears the dealer let the Samsonite Gorilla put the canister back on when they did the oil change.
When I put the canister back on, I used a torque wrench set to the factory-specified 25nm (between 17-18 ft-lb- it's stamped right on the cap!) That's not much beyond hand tight- certainly waaaay less that was when I took it off.
Before I discuss this with the service manager on my next visit, I want to make sure that this isn't something that is normal- that the canister lid does not become difficault to remove over time, even though it is not overtightened when it is installed. Any thoughts? If I can't trust the dealer to take the same care with my car as I do, who can I trust? I guess the sooner my car is out of warranty, the better- then there will be no reason not to do everything myself, and know for sure it's done right...
#2
I changed my oil/filter after about 2000 miles. I used a 36mm socket to fit around the nut head on the canister. It unscrewed fairly easily? When I put it back on, I noticed that the canister seemed to be designed to where you can only tighten it to a certain point and it won't turn any further.
#3
#4
I had the exact same problem with the canister over torqued....it's happened to me twice, both times after the dealer service. I brought the car back to them to loosen the canister. I watched them work it with a large ratchet and breaker bar extension. The canister wasn't damaged I was able to change the oil and filter and reassemble it without problems. By the way the oil drain plug was also over tightened, I had them loosen it at the same time they did the canister... the service techncian had to put the car on the lift to loosen the drain plug!!!!
retroom
retroom
#5
The key to preventing oil leaks from the canister is the big rubber o-ring gasket on the canister, not tightening the canister per se. Make sure that the new o-ring is located in the proper position on the canister, and lube it with a bit of oil before screwing the canister/filter into place. Once the canister is squarely threaded into place it only needs a little tug (about 20 lb-ft) to snug it in place. The Sears 36mm socket with a breaker bar is what I use, and it works fine. Don't worry about the canister having been over-tightened. The threads are big and it looks and feels like the canister could actually take a pretty hefty torquing before the threads stripped or it broke.
#7
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#8
You know? The only thing that keeps it from leaking is the o-ring. Tighten the thing with your torque wrench if your not sure. Or tighten it in your mind enough that you know it wont work loose. Which isnt very tight. Experiment. Tighten and break it loose. You'll understand it does'nt take much elbow to make it reasonable for the next time.
Rick
Rick
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