When I was checking out my MINI to buy it, the washer spray on the front and rear windows did not work. I checked the fuse panel in the passenger foot well and all was good. I didn't bother asking the previous owner about it, since I'm really not in the habit of believing anything from anyone selling a car. So, I bought it knowing it needed a new washer pump. Well, I replaced the pump today................still nothing! The pump doesn't even run..........just NOTHING. Anyone have any ideas?

 

did you check the electric connections to see if the magic ZAP juice is flowing?

(volt meter)

if no I'd suspect the stalk switch . . .

{and since everyone knows I'm a total a** ... if you'd checked this b4 you might have saved the cost of the new pump} sorry . . .

 

Well, the way I look at it is, now, no matter what, I've got a new pump. Honestly, I'm really not even sure how to check the electrical connections. Working on cars has never been my "thing", but I've been learning lots lately because, well..........MINI. So, that being said, how do I check (I'll buy a volt meter tomorrow)? And if there is juice (I'm guessing there won't be)?

 

Bump

 

if you've never played with auto electrics b4 you would probably be best off to find an experienced help first time out but here's a nutshell

Pretty much all your electrical stuff in the car is 12 volts - the washer pump is .... so set the volt meter to a scale where you can read 12 volts. You can check this by simply testing across the battery terminals.

The wiring diagram I have shows the pump as having only two wires running to it ... these are both positive, one for front and other for rear washers (they use the same pump)

So disconnect the wire connector and put the volt meter probes on one the pins of the connector, and the other to a 'ground' (any bare metal in the motor compartment should work) and hit the washer button. The needle should move indicating "juice" is being sent to the pump. If there's no juice flowing the problem must be 'up stream'. wire with brown should be front, wire with blue the rear (they come from the two control relays respectively)

If you want a copy of the wiring diagram send me a PM with an e-mail that will accept an attachment and I'll scan it for you

p.s the washer circuits touch fuses F11 and F23 of the inside fuse box, and FL2,7 & 9 of the under the bonnet fuse box ... check them all

{don't blame me - I didn't design the darn thing}

I presume the wipers work OK, but not the washers?

**** like I said, a knowledgeable helper would not be a bad idea *****

p.s. the most BASIC volt meter is all you need. Heck all you REALLY need is a 12v light with two wires attached! Under $10 at Harbor Freight Tools

 

Assuming you checked and it's full of fluid correct? Silly I know, but have to ask. Some diagrams and good info on what else to check HERE.

 

Thanks! I'm pretty sure I can handle testing for power from your instructions. I got my volt meter, but I won't have time to get in there until Wednesday. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain it.

 

Yup, there's definitely fluid in there but the motor just isn't running. All other functions on the stalk are working correctly, including the low fluid indicator.

 

Look at post #11 in that thread about some switch testing info. Maybe it'll help.

 

Yea, I saw that thread before I started this one, but I didn't really find it very useful(other than the diagram) because it didn't address my specific problem.

 

I know this thread is a bit old, but did you ever figure this out? I've been through a lot over the last year with my washers. I would sporadically get them working then they'd stop again.

For awhile I kept blowing the F11 5amp fuse. Tried many times looking for a short to no avail. The last thing I did, that lasted for a week or so was to pull the F17 15 amp fuse that was for the rear wiper motor. (I deleted my rear wiper awhile ago as it had a mind of its own). I figured perhaps there was something wrong in the rear wiper circuit that was causing the blown F11?
Surprisingly, once I did this, the F11 fuse didn't blow and my washers worked as they should...until the day I was going for inspection.
Now, no blown fuses but the washer pump doesn't run. I hooked a battery directly to the pump and it runs fine. I replaced the Stalk switch with no improvement.
Only thing I can think of now is the K5, K119 relays. I switched them around, but it made no difference.
Needing a sticker and running out of things to try, I direct wired the pump and added a toggle switch to operate it.

 

Actually, I never tackled it, but I will be within the next couple of weeks. Summer rolled in and since I really wasn't going to need the sprayer for 6 months, I put it on the back burner.