What can cause boost fluttering on a 2006 MCS?
#26
I'll give it a try when it gets here. I like the readily available boost, it'll be good for autoX.
BTW I'm having to replace the hole plastic inlet tube. The part that connects to the BPV is cracked in one of the plastic welds, veeery veeeery small crack. The guy who did my clutch must have messed it up somehow. Not going to epoxy it.
WHY IN THE WORLD did BMW decide to design that part like that, it's so freaking fragile. They could've done a solid piece from a mold? SMH!
Might as well throw it in. I was adamant about it because I though that the newer BPV already had a somewhat stiffer spring, compared to earlier models.
BTW I'm having to replace the hole plastic inlet tube. The part that connects to the BPV is cracked in one of the plastic welds, veeery veeeery small crack. The guy who did my clutch must have messed it up somehow. Not going to epoxy it.
WHY IN THE WORLD did BMW decide to design that part like that, it's so freaking fragile. They could've done a solid piece from a mold? SMH!
Might as well throw it in. I was adamant about it because I though that the newer BPV already had a somewhat stiffer spring, compared to earlier models.
We have them in stock if you need one, make sure to keep the red clips out of yours though, they're worth their weight in gold!!
The latest revision of the MINI BPV is a bit more refined over the early valves, but yes they do still fail and many still get the yo-yo effect after awhile.
#27
#28
We've been seeing more and more of those black intake ducts cracking, they are a bit fickle.
We have them in stock if you need one, make sure to keep the red clips out of yours though, they're worth their weight in gold!!
The latest revision of the MINI BPV is a bit more refined over the early valves, but yes they do still fail and many still get the yo-yo effect after awhile.
We have them in stock if you need one, make sure to keep the red clips out of yours though, they're worth their weight in gold!!
The latest revision of the MINI BPV is a bit more refined over the early valves, but yes they do still fail and many still get the yo-yo effect after awhile.
The DT BPV fixed my problems...or maybe something else did. FOr now I'll asume it was the BPV. But the car does not flutter anymore. Thanks DT.
My car is heavily modified, so I don't know if it does affect the how the OEM BPV works. Maybe the OEM BPV does not do good with the air volume coming through when more mods are added.
I vouch for the DT BPV, very good product.
#30
Guys,
As the title states. I'm having a boost flutter problem under partial throttle towards 5-10 psi. It only happens in partial throttle. I get 16 psi at WOT.
Did a smoke test and it didnt show any leaks. I replaced the BPV and the throttle body.
Need help...thanks.
As the title states. I'm having a boost flutter problem under partial throttle towards 5-10 psi. It only happens in partial throttle. I get 16 psi at WOT.
Did a smoke test and it didnt show any leaks. I replaced the BPV and the throttle body.
Need help...thanks.
1-What sort of Boost gauge are you running, brand ect
2- Did it come as a kit.
3- Did the kit come with the proper T-fitting meant for a boost gauge or did you just tap into a line off the Intercooler horn.
#33
The DT BPV fixed my problems...or maybe something else did. FOr now I'll asume it was the BPV. But the car does not flutter anymore. Thanks DT.
My car is heavily modified, so I don't know if it does affect the how the OEM BPV works. Maybe the OEM BPV does not do good with the air volume coming through when more mods are added.
I vouch for the DT BPV, very good product.
My car is heavily modified, so I don't know if it does affect the how the OEM BPV works. Maybe the OEM BPV does not do good with the air volume coming through when more mods are added.
I vouch for the DT BPV, very good product.
I take it back. I have no fluttering now, but the car certainly does not feel like it should. It is hesitating instead of the flutter.
Will put back the OEM BPV until I solve the issue.
My start ups in the morning seem to be getting harsher, as in it starts up, idles, hesitates, idles back again, hesitates and idles correctly after warmed up.
This is about to get on my nerves already.
#34
1. It is an auto meter
2. It was pre installed before I got the car. It looks like it was part of a kit.
3. The boost gauge is tapped with a T along with the FPR line.
#35
I suggest you check the vac lines...both to the bypass valve and the fuel pressure regulator...
Might be nothing...but the line to the fpr is tiny...so the split and extra volume of the hose to use it guage might be giving you a bit of a lag as it adjusts...just a WAG...
Switching the bypass valve might take a couple hundred miles for the car to adjust to the changes to WHEN the boost is seen....the ecu has always had issues with this timing...that's why there is the yo-yo that some folks see...
Like I said, check the vac lines....then let it run a bit, let the ecu adapt to the change you made.
#36
I suggest you check the vac lines...both to the bypass valve and the fuel pressure regulator...
Might be nothing...but the line to the fpr is tiny...so the split and extra volume of the hose to use it guage might be giving you a bit of a lag as it adjusts...just a WAG...
Switching the bypass valve might take a couple hundred miles for the car to adjust to the changes to WHEN the boost is seen....the ecu has always had issues with this timing...that's why there is the yo-yo that some folks see...
Like I said, check the vac lines....then let it run a bit, let the ecu adapt to the change you made.
Might be nothing...but the line to the fpr is tiny...so the split and extra volume of the hose to use it guage might be giving you a bit of a lag as it adjusts...just a WAG...
Switching the bypass valve might take a couple hundred miles for the car to adjust to the changes to WHEN the boost is seen....the ecu has always had issues with this timing...that's why there is the yo-yo that some folks see...
Like I said, check the vac lines....then let it run a bit, let the ecu adapt to the change you made.
Thanks!
I checked all of those things. I had replaced all the vacuum lines with new ones.
The car had been adjusting for over 1k miles when I noticed the fluttering.
My question is:
If I pressurize the system over 5psi, why does the green gasket of the supercharger inlet tube leak? Am I no putting it in all the way?
"Theory":
I know the air is going in one way and certain that there is no pressurization before the supercharger intake side. I'm thinking that doing a pressure test by the throttle body is kinda pointless. (And yes, I'm plugging the PVC valve hose).
IDK, I'd like opinions.
R,
Manny
#37
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wetotter
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
11
05-28-2016 07:57 PM
wearlaz
F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+)
5
05-07-2016 11:05 AM