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New member, just bought 08 mini, clutch problems already

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  #1  
Old 08-29-2016, 11:05 PM
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New member, just bought 08 mini, clutch problems already

I just picked up a really clean 08 Mini S tonight. I don't even have pictures of it in daylight yet.

I drove it home (about 2 hours) and on the way home I noticed it was making an odd noise. I got it home OK and popped the hood. I immediately noticed the strong smell of burnt clutch (this is not my first manual, I do know how to drive) and my neighbor immediately said it sounded like the throwout bearing needed to be adjusted. I'm used to hydraulic clutches that need no adjustment, so I'm not quite sure what needs to be adjusted, or to be honest, exactly what it was that he said. However, the problem definitely seems to be clutch related.

I bought it from a smog shop in CA (they get cars that won't pass smog, their owners sell them cheap, the shop fixes & flips them) and they just replaced the clutch. Obviously they didn't do something right.

There's no warranty, and even if I did want them to fix it, I'd have to drive it all the way back there and burn the clutch up even more to get there. I'm pretty handy and have done most of my own work, but this is my first Mini.

What should I look at first?

Thanks!
 

Last edited by phalanges; 08-29-2016 at 11:49 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-30-2016, 06:15 AM
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Typically there isn't any adjustment in a hydraulic actuation system but if it was cable actuated there would be a free-play adjustment. That said, you should have some pedal free-play (movement of the clutch pedal without engagement of the system). This is necessary for proper engagement of the clutch. If this checks out then the only other reason for slippage of the clutch will be inadequate clamping pressure, worn clutch disc or contamination. Unfortunately it will have to be taken apart to investigate these possibilities.
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:41 AM
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NB Cooper nailed it. Free play should be your initial focus - is there some or isn't there? In a hydraulic system, that's usually your only clue to how worn the clutch is.
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:41 AM
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could is be your front breaks? how did you pin point the issue to the clutch other than the smell? how many miles on the car?
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:37 AM
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The clutch is new. It was just installed by the shop. I don't think it was done right.

I checked the pedal and while there's resistance all the way at the top, it doesn't get noticeably harder to push the pedal until about 2" in.

106,000 miles.

So do I have a hydraulic or a cable actuated clutch?

It's not the brakes. I forgot to mention the noise that I heard.

 
  #6  
Old 08-30-2016, 08:42 AM
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its hydro there is a slave and its' tied to the brake fluid. I would start with bleeding the slave again

they might have gone cheap and just tossed a clutch in without a regrind or replaced flywheel
 
  #7  
Old 08-30-2016, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mega72
its hydro there is a slave and its' tied to the brake fluid. I would start with bleeding the slave again

they might have gone cheap and just tossed a clutch in without a regrind or replaced flywheel
This would be my guess as well. They may have even simply replaced the disc and not the pressure plate or the flywheel, who knows. The problem is access to verify the shortcoming.

So let's toss out a few "what ifs" (assuming that the clutch was done right)
What if the master cylinder isn't being allowed to return to the fully released position or what if the system is holding pressure because the return port in the master cylinder is blocked? This would result in a reduction of the clamping force on the clutch disc because the throw out bearing would still be applying pressure on the pressure plate fingers. Simply cracking the bleed screw would relieve the pressure but the issue would return as soon as you pumped the clutch. Sitting static there should be no pressure in the hydraulic system so if you did find pressure there, it would indicate a problem with the master cylinder or a rigging issue between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder.

It's a bit of a stretch but I've seen it on brakes before so it may be worth a look.
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:08 AM
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He said he replaced the flywheel as well.
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by NB Cooper
It's a bit of a stretch but I've seen it on brakes before so it may be worth a look.
I have too, but I can't really tie any of that to the noise in the video.
 
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:37 AM
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how about the transmission fluid. is it verified that it is at the right level. can you take another video from the bottom, towards the tranny housing? also, if you rev the engine up a little, what happens to the noise?
 
  #11  
Old 08-30-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by phalanges
I have too, but I can't really tie any of that to the noise in the video.
That noise is nasty!
It sounds like the release bearing about to explode.

If you did have a blockage causing pressure in the system, it would hold the release bearing engaged with the pressure plate and cause it to wear out really fast. It would be just like riding the clutch all the time and it would also cause the clutch to slip.
 
  #12  
Old 08-30-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
how about the transmission fluid. is it verified that it is at the right level. can you take another video from the bottom, towards the tranny housing? also, if you rev the engine up a little, what happens to the noise?
How do I check the fluid? I don't see a dipstick for it.

I need to run to the parts store today to pick up a pair of ramps for it so I can get under it. What are you hoping to learn?

The noise becomes more frequent and worse when it's revved. When I was looking at the car to buy it on Sunday, I took it on about a 15 minute drive and there were no noises or smells. Now the noise starts almost as soon as I start it up.

This car is very strange to me. I don't even see any belts or accessories on the front of the motor. Are they tucked away under there or is there some new-school way of charging batteries and running water pumps?
 
  #13  
Old 08-30-2016, 10:21 AM
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The single drive belt is on the passenger side of the vehicle well out of sight. It drives the AC and the alternator.
 
  #14  
Old 08-30-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by phalanges
How do I check the fluid? I don't see a dipstick for it.
there isnt a dipstick. it is an "enclosed" system. there should be a plug next to the long axle.

Originally Posted by phalanges
I need to run to the parts store today to pick up a pair of ramps for it so I can get under it. What are you hoping to learn?
I want to see if the fluid is low and maybe the gears are grinding or something of that nature. I dont know how they replaced the clutch, but when i did mine, i drained the tranny and removed the axles. pulled the engine out and did the work outside.

Originally Posted by phalanges
The noise becomes more frequent and worse when it's revved. When I was looking at the car to buy it on Sunday, I took it on about a 15 minute drive and there were no noises or smells. Now the noise starts almost as soon as I start it up.
the other members could be right about about the release bearing

Originally Posted by phalanges
This car is very strange to me. I don't even see any belts or accessories on the front of the motor. Are they tucked away under there or is there some new-school way of charging batteries and running water pumps?
one belt on the left side of the engine (standing in front of it).
 
  #15  
Old 08-30-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NB Cooper
That noise is nasty!
It sounds like the release bearing about to explode.

If you did have a blockage causing pressure in the system, it would hold the release bearing engaged with the pressure plate and cause it to wear out really fast. It would be just like riding the clutch all the time and it would also cause the clutch to slip.
That makes sense.

When I left, I got right on the freeway and did 70 to 75 for over an hour. I live about 7 or 8 miles off the freeway and there are about 6 or 7 red lights. I hit a few and noticed the sound when I was stopped. I was almost home so I popped the hood as soon as I got there and smelled the burnt clutch.

I guess one of the cylinders needs to be replaced. This would probably explain why the clutch needed to replaced to begin with. 106,000 miles is very much on a clutch.
 
  #16  
Old 08-30-2016, 11:17 AM
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Picture is worth a thousand words.

 
  #17  
Old 08-30-2016, 11:26 AM
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The more I listen to that sound bite, the more it sounds like a starter bendix that isn't properly retracted. It's almost too rough to be the release bearing.
 
  #18  
Old 08-30-2016, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by NB Cooper
The more I listen to that sound bite, the more it sounds like a starter bendix that isn't properly retracted. It's almost too rough to be the release bearing.
You know... that's a really good thought. It would be obvious when I pull the starter off, right?

Does that explain the smell? Or are there two problems?
 
  #19  
Old 08-30-2016, 12:15 PM
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turns the starter into a generator don't it? lol I bet it gets real hot
 
  #20  
Old 09-07-2016, 04:31 AM
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So a week has passed and I would love to know if you had a chance to dig into this. Whassup??
 
  #21  
Old 09-13-2016, 04:41 PM
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Sorry! I finally got the car back the other day and I've been having too much fun driving the darn thing!

They replaced the throwout bearing. I don't know they installed (or received) the wrong part or whether it was defective, but the car seems fine now.

Now I noticed an oil consumption problem but that's another thread.

Thanks for the help!
 
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