Clicking noise from passenger fuse box
#26
04-12-2021, 03:57 AM
Please help to isolate the issue -- facing similar challenges as described above. Vehicle is 2010 Mini Cooper S, 80K miles
All started after I decided to reset service lights as I changed oil myself. Before that procedure things were good. After I reset oil change, brake inspection, government inspection etc -- I got 3 warning lights on: brakes, ABS, speed sensor. According to the manual it means electronics malfunction.
Now the car does not start, does not crank even/ Instead of a proper start -- I hear loud ticking noise from both fuse boxes - under the hood and near the passengers foot.Checked relays and fuses -- they are or, nothing is toasted. Same loud clicking appears when ignition is on and the brake pedal is pressed. Feels like pressing brake pedal causes a shortcut somewhere.
3 lights ignited: bakes. abs, speed sensor. Sometimes more lights (e.g."low on fue"l). CEL light is on. OBD shows a code for speed sensor. OBD showed battery voltage about 10.5 (yesterday it was 14.3) -- so I put this to charge overnight. Disconnecting battery makes those lights disappear. then they appear again.
It seems as if there's a shortcut somewhere. E.g. It was hard to raise driver's windo; now when I open/close the door the glass does not go down a little to get under the molding as it used to do. However, passenger's window works just fine - I can easily raise or lower the glass with no problems.
Please help. Will call mini specialists tomorrow; however I'd rather fix this myself. But I don't have experience with electric components yet.
All started after I decided to reset service lights as I changed oil myself. Before that procedure things were good. After I reset oil change, brake inspection, government inspection etc -- I got 3 warning lights on: brakes, ABS, speed sensor. According to the manual it means electronics malfunction.
Now the car does not start, does not crank even/ Instead of a proper start -- I hear loud ticking noise from both fuse boxes - under the hood and near the passengers foot.Checked relays and fuses -- they are or, nothing is toasted. Same loud clicking appears when ignition is on and the brake pedal is pressed. Feels like pressing brake pedal causes a shortcut somewhere.
3 lights ignited: bakes. abs, speed sensor. Sometimes more lights (e.g."low on fue"l). CEL light is on. OBD shows a code for speed sensor. OBD showed battery voltage about 10.5 (yesterday it was 14.3) -- so I put this to charge overnight. Disconnecting battery makes those lights disappear. then they appear again.
It seems as if there's a shortcut somewhere. E.g. It was hard to raise driver's windo; now when I open/close the door the glass does not go down a little to get under the molding as it used to do. However, passenger's window works just fine - I can easily raise or lower the glass with no problems.
Please help. Will call mini specialists tomorrow; however I'd rather fix this myself. But I don't have experience with electric components yet.
#27
10-12-2021, 09:17 AM
#29
10-31-2021, 02:10 PM
#31
08-08-2022, 11:18 AM
#32
10-08-2022, 07:15 PM
I know this is old but to anybody who is having the erratic clicking sounds coming from the JBE (the fuse box in the kick panel) when you insert the key and try to start it accompanied most times but not always by a no-start condition where it cranks for a second and stops. It will almost always be water damage. Water gets in through the passenger side through different sources; sunroof drainage, fresh air compartment from a/c and/or the window seal.
You'll notice white or green corrosion stains (depending on how advanced it is) when you undo the connections at the jbe.
Assuming your fusebox isn't far gone, you can get it working by drying and cleaning it.
1. Take out all the fuses, (take a picture before dissasembling, it's easier than reading the fuse diagram)
2. Unscrew two screws on the back,
3. Pry it open from the back gently on all 4 sides
4. Separate the board from the plastic cover
5. Dry everything either by leaving out several days or instantly by using a blowdryer. Move it from side to side, don't let it get too hot so it doesn't melt the soldering.
6. Clean everything with electric parts cleaner, the board and even the plastic (so you notice in case it happens again)
7. Optionally, you can dry again
8. and reassemble
In case this doesn't work; either your JBE is fried or in lesser cases, the black relay that sits in the center is shorted. You'll know it's the relay because no fuses will be blown but the erratic noise will be present. If it happens beneath your feet at the driver's side, it's the same thing but with the Footwell Module.
Have you ever spilled a drink over the e-brake? The SRS Module is underneath that e-brake cover and it'll go crazy too.
If there's water in your trunk or the bottom is corroded, it's most likely your antenna base, the gasket cracks and falls out creating a nasty gap. Why do we like these cars so much?
You'll notice white or green corrosion stains (depending on how advanced it is) when you undo the connections at the jbe.
Assuming your fusebox isn't far gone, you can get it working by drying and cleaning it.
1. Take out all the fuses, (take a picture before dissasembling, it's easier than reading the fuse diagram)
2. Unscrew two screws on the back,
3. Pry it open from the back gently on all 4 sides
4. Separate the board from the plastic cover
5. Dry everything either by leaving out several days or instantly by using a blowdryer. Move it from side to side, don't let it get too hot so it doesn't melt the soldering.
6. Clean everything with electric parts cleaner, the board and even the plastic (so you notice in case it happens again)
7. Optionally, you can dry again
8. and reassemble
In case this doesn't work; either your JBE is fried or in lesser cases, the black relay that sits in the center is shorted. You'll know it's the relay because no fuses will be blown but the erratic noise will be present. If it happens beneath your feet at the driver's side, it's the same thing but with the Footwell Module.
Have you ever spilled a drink over the e-brake? The SRS Module is underneath that e-brake cover and it'll go crazy too.
If there's water in your trunk or the bottom is corroded, it's most likely your antenna base, the gasket cracks and falls out creating a nasty gap. Why do we like these cars so much?
Last edited by secondhandr55; 10-08-2022 at 07:29 PM.
#33
10-08-2022, 07:32 PM
I know this is old but to anybody who is having the erratic clicking sounds coming from the JBE (the fuse box in the kick panel) when you insert the key and try to start it accompanied most times but not always by a no-start condition where it cranks for a second and stops. It will almost always be water damage. Water gets in through the passenger side through different sources; sunroof drainage, fresh air compartment from a/c and/or the window seal.
You'll notice white or green corrosion stains (depending on how advanced it is) when you undo the connections at the jbe.
Assuming your fusebox isn't far gone, you can get it working by drying and cleaning it.
1. Take out all the fuses, (take a picture before dissasembling, it's easier than reading the fuse diagram)
2. Unscrew two screws on the back,
3. Pry it open from the back gently on all 4 sides
4. Separate the board from the plastic cover
5. Dry everything either by leaving out several days or instantly by using a blowdryer. Move it from side to side, don't let it get too hot so it doesn't melt the soldering.
6. Clean everything with electric parts cleaner, the board and even the plastic (so you notice in case it happens again)
7. Optionally, you can dry again
8. and reassemble
In case this doesn't work; either your JBE is fried or in lesser cases, the black relay that sits in the center is shorted. You'll know it's the relay because no fuses will be blown but the erratic noise will be present. If it happens beneath your feet at the driver's side, it's the same thing but with the Footwell Module.
Have you ever spilled a drink over the e-brake? The SRS Module is underneath that e-brake cover and it'll go crazy too.
If there's water in your trunk or the bottom is corroded, it's most likely your antenna base, the gasket cracks and falls out creating a nasty gap. Why do we like these cars so much?
You'll notice white or green corrosion stains (depending on how advanced it is) when you undo the connections at the jbe.
Assuming your fusebox isn't far gone, you can get it working by drying and cleaning it.
1. Take out all the fuses, (take a picture before dissasembling, it's easier than reading the fuse diagram)
2. Unscrew two screws on the back,
3. Pry it open from the back gently on all 4 sides
4. Separate the board from the plastic cover
5. Dry everything either by leaving out several days or instantly by using a blowdryer. Move it from side to side, don't let it get too hot so it doesn't melt the soldering.
6. Clean everything with electric parts cleaner, the board and even the plastic (so you notice in case it happens again)
7. Optionally, you can dry again
8. and reassemble
In case this doesn't work; either your JBE is fried or in lesser cases, the black relay that sits in the center is shorted. You'll know it's the relay because no fuses will be blown but the erratic noise will be present. If it happens beneath your feet at the driver's side, it's the same thing but with the Footwell Module.
Have you ever spilled a drink over the e-brake? The SRS Module is underneath that e-brake cover and it'll go crazy too.
If there's water in your trunk or the bottom is corroded, it's most likely your antenna base, the gasket cracks and falls out creating a nasty gap. Why do we like these cars so much?
9 out of 10, clicking noise out of the fusebox is immobilizer issue. Happened on my wife's countryman and few of my clients.
#34
10-08-2022, 07:56 PM
I don't mean the click sound of the system not engaging because of inmobilizer, I mean the continous erratic clicking that sounds like an electric shortage. It happens because the JBE gets wet.
#36
05-08-2023, 06:59 PM
I have a similar mystery with my 2013 Justa Cooper. Since December, I've had 6 instances of cranking without turning over which goes away over time.....sometimes after waiting just an hour without trying (if I just keep trying after shorter intervals it just will not run).
After being stranded 2x in December and once in January, the problem seemed to go away until it happened again last week.
The only thing I can think of which all these instances have in common is multiple days of wet weather /high humidity with the car sitting parked for a at least couple of days in a row.
Dealer claims no power to fuel pump means it's a defective JBE, but now I'm thinking that's not necessarily the case.
I've also had at least 6 instances of the fob not locking or unlocking the doors within the same period of time. The car had no running issues on the same day as the central locking issue.
Since that's a different module (CAS) I'm wondering if high humidity trapped in the car for days is the culprit. I don't have any leaks that I can tell, but will start checking the carpet for dampness from now on.
Would using one of those reusable humidity absorbing bags be the solution?
After being stranded 2x in December and once in January, the problem seemed to go away until it happened again last week.
The only thing I can think of which all these instances have in common is multiple days of wet weather /high humidity with the car sitting parked for a at least couple of days in a row.
Dealer claims no power to fuel pump means it's a defective JBE, but now I'm thinking that's not necessarily the case.
I've also had at least 6 instances of the fob not locking or unlocking the doors within the same period of time. The car had no running issues on the same day as the central locking issue.
Since that's a different module (CAS) I'm wondering if high humidity trapped in the car for days is the culprit. I don't have any leaks that I can tell, but will start checking the carpet for dampness from now on.
Would using one of those reusable humidity absorbing bags be the solution?
#37
05-08-2023, 07:07 PM
I have a similar mystery with my 2013 Justa Cooper. Since December, I've had 6 instances of cranking without turning over which goes away over time.....sometimes after waiting just an hour without trying (if I just keep trying after shorter intervals it just will not run).After being stranded 2x in December and once in January, the problem seemed to go away until it happened again last week.The only thing I can think of which all these instances have in common is multiple days of wet weather /high humidity with the car sitting parked for a at least couple of days in a row.Dealer claims no power to fuel pump means it's a defective JBE, but now I'm thinking that's not necessarily the case.I've also had at least 6 instances of the fob not locking or unlocking the doors within the same period of time. The car had no running issues on the same day as the central locking issue.Since that's a different module (CAS) I'm wondering if high humidity trapped in the car for days is the culprit. I don't have any leaks that I can tell, but will start checking the carpet for dampness from now on. Would using one of those reusable humidity absorbing bags be the solution?
The CAS's board is actually dipped in a clear coat material and so far I've never seen one with corrosion.
Keepiig the car dry is definitely a plus, but I'm not sure if THAT is the solution.
#38
05-08-2023, 07:21 PM
What's weird is that it happens at random. At first I thought my fob wasn't charging enough because of short driving times, but since it sometimes won't lock the car when I park but will unlock it when I try again later, it can't be a dead fob battery.
I have figured out that high humidity precedes the non start issue and the last time I did even hear a clicking after trying the 3rd or 4th time without success. It just seems odd that both unlrelated modules are acting up and if I pay closer attention, it might be a question of dampness for this one too. I will make note of how damp the weather has been next time it happens.
I have figured out that high humidity precedes the non start issue and the last time I did even hear a clicking after trying the 3rd or 4th time without success. It just seems odd that both unlrelated modules are acting up and if I pay closer attention, it might be a question of dampness for this one too. I will make note of how damp the weather has been next time it happens.
the locking and unlocking are recognized by the CAS. The symptoms you mentioned are in line with a failing CAS or wiring to the CAS.
The CAS's board is actually dipped in a clear coat material and so far I've never seen one with corrosion.
Keeping the car dry is definitely a plus, but I'm not sure if THAT is the solution.
The CAS's board is actually dipped in a clear coat material and so far I've never seen one with corrosion.
Keeping the car dry is definitely a plus, but I'm not sure if THAT is the solution.
#39
05-08-2023, 07:36 PM
What's weird is that it happens at random. At first I thought my fob wasn't charging enough because of short driving times, but since it sometimes won't lock the car when I park but will unlock it when I try again later, it can't be a dead fob battery.I have figured out that high humidity precedes the non start issue and the last time I did even hear a clicking after trying the 3rd or 4th time without success. It just seems odd that both unlrelated modules are acting up and if I pay closer attention, it might be a question of dampness for this one too. I will make note of how damp the weather has been next time it happens.
definitely keep an eye and report back.
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