Help! This is strange
#1
Help! This is strange
So I purchased 2005 mcs back in may. It had 111,000 miles on it. Now it has 120,000 it had a sea for a while for a post cat o2 but after fuel filter that was gone. Now this is where it gets weird. I used to get a eml light every morning for a p1498. But it went away after the first drive or second start. Now I get eml sea in the morning then eml goes away and see is on a few more times then its gone too. I never have limp mode. I think I have a vac leak because 12.7 at idle but no loss of power what so ever. I have done a lot to fix things and everything thing helps but I don't understand why the lights go away. Is my car just bipolor or is something serious. The code is always p1498. Unmetered air after compressor. again I have done everything. Nothing changed. No noises no over heating and 23 mpg although after doing a few things last night like fuel purge valve ic boots and fixing my CAI it is increasing. I just dont understand this. Good compression. Not lean or rich. No smells. Just strange. And again never limp mode. Please help! Thank you.
#2
Check the BPV for proper operation, the black plastic intake duct is also prone to cracking at the plastic welds. Also make sure the vacuum sources are all connected under the SC horn, there is a couple from the throttle body that apply vacuum to the reed valve, and one from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator that is common to come off the intake manifold.
#3
Check the BPV for proper operation, the black plastic intake duct is also prone to cracking at the plastic welds. Also make sure the vacuum sources are all connected under the SC horn, there is a couple from the throttle body that apply vacuum to the reed valve, and one from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator that is common to come off the intake manifold.
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#8
Green jam gasket at SC for intake duct horn possibly?....Replace the whole duct and jam gasket. The attaching plastic lobe has a hole for a bolt and it develops into an oblong hole making it somewhat loos and the gasket dries out allowing unmetered air to be sucked in....Mine went south at about 130K....Nothing to lose, sounds like you did everything else.....
#9
Green jam gasket at SC for intake duct horn possibly?....Replace the whole duct and jam gasket. The attaching plastic lobe has a hole for a bolt and it develops into an oblong hole making it somewhat loos and the gasket dries out allowing unmetered air to be sucked in....Mine went south at about 130K....Nothing to lose, sounds like you did everything else.....
#10
You can remove the intake duct without breaking the cooling system open.
Go to service mode, let the core support hang down from the coolant hoses, and you have more than adequate access to the intake duct.
Go to service mode, let the core support hang down from the coolant hoses, and you have more than adequate access to the intake duct.
#11
Besides that....the cooling system is often neglected....the fluid should be changed every 36-48 months in a gen1.... remember you have a cast-iron block and coolants are formulated for all aluminum motors in most cases...
If you did have to drain the system with fresh coolant, just catch it with a clean bucket....
Sounds like you're u have done "everything" but what needs to be done to fix the problem... frustrating....it happens.
If you did have to drain the system with fresh coolant, just catch it with a clean bucket....
Sounds like you're u have done "everything" but what needs to be done to fix the problem... frustrating....it happens.
#12
Besides that....the cooling system is often neglected....the fluid should be changed every 36-48 months in a gen1.... remember you have a cast-iron block and coolants are formulated for all aluminum motors in most cases...
If you did have to drain the system with fresh coolant, just catch it with a clean bucket....
Sounds like you're u have done "everything" but what needs to be done to fix the problem... frustrating....it happens.
If you did have to drain the system with fresh coolant, just catch it with a clean bucket....
Sounds like you're u have done "everything" but what needs to be done to fix the problem... frustrating....it happens.
#14
#15
If you go to a hardware store and purchase a couple of long bolts with washers (I can't remember what size exactly, but they're the same thread/pitch as the core support/bumper bolts) you'll be able to slide the entire core support forward on the long bolts. You may have to disconnect the upper radiator hose, but that won't empty your coolant and you can just top it off again when you're done.
ModMini on YouTube demonstrates this in one of his videos - I think it's his "Service Mode" vid.
ModMini on YouTube demonstrates this in one of his videos - I think it's his "Service Mode" vid.
#16
This tech article here might also help you while you put your MINI into service mode: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...er_Removal.htm.
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#17
If you go to a hardware store and purchase a couple of long bolts with washers (I can't remember what size exactly, but they're the same thread/pitch as the core support/bumper bolts) you'll be able to slide the entire core support forward on the long bolts. You may have to disconnect the upper radiator hose, but that won't empty your coolant and you can just top it off again when you're done.
ModMini on YouTube demonstrates this in one of his videos - I think it's his "Service Mode" vid.
ModMini on YouTube demonstrates this in one of his videos - I think it's his "Service Mode" vid.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91310a566/=14am7t9
High-Strength Uncoated Steel Cap Screw - Class 10.9
M8 Thread, Pitch: 1.25, 100mm Long
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