Headlight adjustment
#1
Headlight adjustment
OK so before anyone says search the forum I have! I took my mini to bmw to have them adjust the headlights and they are better now but I want them a little bit higher and more straight but the adjustment screws are maxed out height wise and if I move the beam in toward where the center of the car is it lowers my beam and then I can't raise it anymore. I have a 2005 R53 with xenon lights from factory. Please get back to me asap please.
#2
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#3
Yea I already read that post. My problem is is that my screws ate maxed out and I can't adjust them anymore
#4
Huh, are they mounted in the hood correctly, did one of the auto level sensors brackets get bent ?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight-help.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...turned-on.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight-help.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...turned-on.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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#5
Where are the fuses for these located and I have noticed that mine do not move when I turn on the lights
Huh, are they mounted in the hood correctly, did one of the auto level sensors brackets get bent ?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight-help.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...turned-on.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ight-help.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...turned-on.html
#6
Check the driver side footwell and the small box on the driver side engine bay, just to make sure the fuses are all good.
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#7
Should I adjust the elevation of the headlights so just in case it is the fast it won't over correct and strip anything out? Also thank you very much for your prompt responses, it is very much appreciated.
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#8
If you don't see them dip the go up when you turn them on, sounds like the auto adjust is broken...
Mostjust do what you do...adjust them as high as they will go...till you spend the $$ to fix it...that's about it unless you want to try to shim the housing and mounting holes to do further adjustments.
Mostjust do what you do...adjust them as high as they will go...till you spend the $$ to fix it...that's about it unless you want to try to shim the housing and mounting holes to do further adjustments.
#9
Wield question I know but when u shut the hood is the headlight supposed to shake?
If you don't see them dip the go up when you turn them on, sounds like the auto adjust is broken...
Mostjust do what you do...adjust them as high as they will go...till you spend the $$ to fix it...that's about it unless you want to try to shim the housing and mounting holes to do further adjustments.
Mostjust do what you do...adjust them as high as they will go...till you spend the $$ to fix it...that's about it unless you want to try to shim the housing and mounting holes to do further adjustments.
#10
#11
#12
#13
You should be able to take the cover off of the back of the headlight and see the ball and socket assembly. There are a few posts about this issue, but here is a possible fix without removing the lens to take the headlight apart.
All factory xenons have auto adjusters as I think this is a Federal requirement. There are two level sensors, one on the front control arm and one on the upper rear control arm. I think they are both on the drivers side. If the headlights are good, I would check these out next.
I just thought I'd update my situation and share what I did to fix the problem. After reading the information on this website regarding drooping Xenon lights, I decided to work at the problem. The fix turns out to be quite easy and doesn't require removal of the headlamp nor any special tools to reconnect the ball and sockets.
Step 1 - Unplug the lamp wiring harness from the head lamp assembly (will also need to squeeze the cable retainer to get that disconnected) and also disconnect the washer fluid hose from the headlamp washer pump mechanism so you can get the rear access panel open.
Step 2 - Open and remove the rear access panel to enable grabbing hold of the orange Xenon igniter box. For me, just pulling on the igniter box would not get the ball and sockets reseated.
Step 3 - Open the side access cover/panel. A slight twist is all that is needed. You will use this to get a long, large flat bladed screwdriver to apply some pressure on the top of the sockets while you are pulling on the igniter box. I put some cloth tape around the blade of the screw driver to give it some friction and limit any damage that might be done if it slipped.
Step 4 - While pulling down on the igniter, I applied pressure to the blade of the screwdriver situated on top of the top socket. It did not require a lot of pressure. When it reseats you fill feel a little snap as the ball and socket rejoin.
Step 5- Again while pulling down on the igniter, I applied pressure to the blade of the screw driver situated on the lower socket until I felt the ball/socket snap back into place.
Step 6 - Close up the side and rear cover/panels. Reconnect the washeer fluid tube and plug in the wiring harness.
Step 7 - Test. Lights should go through their leveling routine and no drooping.
Step 1 - Unplug the lamp wiring harness from the head lamp assembly (will also need to squeeze the cable retainer to get that disconnected) and also disconnect the washer fluid hose from the headlamp washer pump mechanism so you can get the rear access panel open.
Step 2 - Open and remove the rear access panel to enable grabbing hold of the orange Xenon igniter box. For me, just pulling on the igniter box would not get the ball and sockets reseated.
Step 3 - Open the side access cover/panel. A slight twist is all that is needed. You will use this to get a long, large flat bladed screwdriver to apply some pressure on the top of the sockets while you are pulling on the igniter box. I put some cloth tape around the blade of the screw driver to give it some friction and limit any damage that might be done if it slipped.
Step 4 - While pulling down on the igniter, I applied pressure to the blade of the screwdriver situated on top of the top socket. It did not require a lot of pressure. When it reseats you fill feel a little snap as the ball and socket rejoin.
Step 5- Again while pulling down on the igniter, I applied pressure to the blade of the screw driver situated on the lower socket until I felt the ball/socket snap back into place.
Step 6 - Close up the side and rear cover/panels. Reconnect the washeer fluid tube and plug in the wiring harness.
Step 7 - Test. Lights should go through their leveling routine and no drooping.
#14
Yea I believe itw white nylon in color and it will snap into the socket. I have seen them pop out when people slam the hoods shut or the headlight was bumped in a wreak. Also on slammed / stiff suspension cars that go over bumps.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#15
Yes if your light(s) shake when closing the hood they are most likely popped out of the ball socket. Mine was like that when we first bought the Mini...I easily fixed it after reading a thread somewhere on here. Since I've fixed the problem I don't slam the hood anymore...I just gently lower hood and then press down on top of the brackets to lock them.
That's the procedure on post#13...once you open all the available covers you'll see how the light is supposed to be attached to the ball joint and push it back in.
That's the procedure on post#13...once you open all the available covers you'll see how the light is supposed to be attached to the ball joint and push it back in.
Last edited by fd3toe46; 09-29-2016 at 01:09 PM.
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