Apologies, I have posted this on another thread link but I've had no response and I'm hoping this may reach people who can help/advise.
In summary, I concluded I had a CAS problem, tried to fix it soldering the connector pins on the board, ended up burning the CAS & GND wire. I intend to get a cloned CAS, fix harness but I'm concerned if I get a long non-starting crank again it might end up the same.
Here's the long version, hope it makes sense...
R56 Cooper, 2007, 90k miles
Did all the timing gear about 18 months ago as cams had both slipped. My first major venture into vehicle DIY, challenging but all ok.
Just recently had the ABS/service - 'you name it' lights plus red steering lock and immobilisation.
Car ran and started absolutely fine (unless immobilised).
Researched the immobilisation - got ISTA+, reset ELV counter & bought & fitted lock motor emulator.
Padlock comes back though!!
Chap who sold me the emulator says please check connections in CAS module - some of his customers have solved issue by soldering the push connectors on the CAS...
I'll come back to this....
So the ABS lights etc.... sometimes the car is fine, sometimes the warnings come on after a short distance. When it happens the fuel gauge goes weird, seems to happen at corners/roundabouts - it goes to empty and back again. Also speedo stops working.
Other things thinking back over the past few months... on odd occasions car has cranked for ages without starting (only 2 or 3 times), wipers came on once when I was fiddling and wouldn't stop. I've noticed that the remote key fob sometimes takes more than one press to open or lock.
Regarding codes:
93FB: No message (veh speed) from DSC,ACSM/MRS receiver/DSC transmitter
6115,6116,610F EPS: message error wheel speeds
5E01,5E02,5E00,5E03: DSC speed sensor (each wheel) - short circuit
2FF6: DME: veh speed signal
A0B5: CAS: fault, road speed signal
A3AC: message (distance travelled) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
5E52: DSC CU, monitoring error
5DD4: DSC CU, internal fault
5DE8,5DD9: DSC CU, internal fault
5DAA: DSC hydraulic unit, supply, pump motor
D35D: Message error CAS, receiver DSC, transmitter CAS
E194: No message, receiver CCC/MASK/RAD2, transmitter CAS
A0AA: CAS: control unit fault
I'm a real novice to this stuff but like to learn and have been on a steep learning curve re ISTA, wiring diagrams etc... I have by no means extensively checked the wiring but there's no sign of water ingress or damage anywhere. I've had the car since it was about 3 years old so know most of its history. I convinced myself it had to be a faulty ABS module as ISTA said it couldn't communicate, so I sent int off to be fixed - but got it back as no fault. So after the pain of removing it, I had the pain refitting and how the hell was I going to bleed it. Fortunately I did it when the car was feeling ok and ISTA communicated to it for about half of the bleed programme before losing it, which got them working again but my problem was still there.
Having studied the wiring diagrams to the best of my abilities I noticed a lot of this seems to go through the CAS, and with the experience on the ELV emulator I decided to look at the CAS. I got it out and soldered the connector pins to the board. I'm not great at soldering but I think I did reasonably ok. I put it back in the car half expecting it to not work but it did, and no fault. I went for a drive which was fine. I left an ELM dongle plugged in the OBD and left it thinking that hadn't gone too bad, but it might just be a lucky run - as I say the faults are intermittent. Anyway, a few hours later I decided to hook up the laptop and check for faults (K-can cable). It took a few presses of key, I hooked up with ignition on, engine not started. OBD seemed to have turned off so pulled it out and put it in again. Decided to start car. It long cranked but no start, and I could smell burning and smoke from under dash. I reached in and pulled out the CAS connector before it set on fire but it's well burnt.





So, I'm now a bit stuck. I fear it could have been bad soldering - but I drove it fine for about 10 minutes, stopping once, getting out of the car locking it and restarting...and it was ok
I'm going to get a cloned CAS and fix the wiring, luckily the damage stops at a splice X3279 centre of dash. But I am worried about plugging in the 'new' CAS and it happening again.
I really don't understand why I've occasionally had this long cranking non start, and is there some other problem causing this that could also overload the CAS again.
This is what the CAS system looks like:

The yellow boxes are the wire sizes mm2, the red pins are the burnt out ones. It looks like pin 22 has taken a load of current (but harness seems ok) and that this has also gone down the ground wire (pin 12) which is the burnt out wire. I don't think my soldering is that bad that I shorted between 22 and 12 but I just don't know what I need to check before trying a new CAS. Fuses F34 & F49 both ok. I was also considering putting a fuse in protect the ground wire just in case, does that seem ridiculous? Hopefully it might be obvious to someone which pins I may hve shorted to create the failure during long cranking.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated please
Dave

 

My theory is I've made a bad solder on one or more of the connector legs of pin 22. This feeds the starter motor coil during cranking, and since it was a long non start crank the pin got very hot and melted causing a much bigger failure resulting in to much current going down the unit's ground pin 12, burning out the wire until it got to the splice where the effective wire size increases. The current to starter motor was ok, didn't damage the wire, just overheating at terminal. Don't know why the crank without start, hoping a fault of the CAS. In hindsight I think I should have just soldered pin 34 as this looks like the power to the unit which if that was dodgy could have caused the intermittent problems, and also pin 31 the wheel speed from ABS. Does that sound plausible? Any other thoughts?

 

I'm currently working with a fellow minion who's got a same issue. He bought the emulator and it doesn't half of the time.

He replaced the steering column from an 09 that doesn't have the mechanical lock. I was able to marry a donor CAS and key to his ecu and transfer his original key. The issue I'm stuck with now is that after transferring his key, the car will start BUT doesn't lock and unlock. This function works woth the donor keys or if i program another key to the donor CAS.

It's still in R&D phase but it's doable.

I also do cloning and testing if you want. I have an 07 that i can test your cas and ecu if you need to. Pm me for details IF you're in the States.

 

Thanks MTB, I am in England but thanks for the offer.

 

Just a quick update - this is a map of the is/outs of the CAS

it provides engine start signal to DME (pin 28), so I think my dodgy CAS gave signal to crank (starter motor solenoid pin 22) but DME didn't get signal which presumably turns on fuel pump etc... So I had a long crank, no start. A bad solder at pin 22 may have meant big heat build up, melt down and current going down unit's earth feed pin 12, burning out the wire.
Also, all the other problems like ABS light, speedo, airbag etc... they all go through the CAS.
Anyway, I got someone who could clone my burnt CAS and fixed up the wiring with a donor connector. I put it all together and she's alive again!
Car's been off the road for about 4 weeks so pleased to get her back. Hope that's a the last issue for a while!
Hope that helps someone.

 

Well that didn't last long! Back to where I started - ABS light, a/bag light, vehicle on lift light, steering lock light, speedo not working, fuel gauge miss-behaving. Intermittent naturally!!
I'm thinking could it be a power interruption or something. Wondering about the terminal 30 relay in the JBE?
Help!!!!!!

 

[QUOTE = tazzbug; 4407164] Tengo el mismo problema. Cuando saco el relé del interruptor de accesorios, el ruido todavía se produce y cuando pongo la llave, los limpiaparabrisas se encienden. Parece que solo sucede cuando hace calor porque temprano en la mañana no lo hace. También mi DTC y la luz de freno (amarilla) se encienden en el grupo. A veces no se enciende, pero 7 de cada 10 veces se encienden las luces. ¿Tendría eso algo que ver con el ruido de clic?

También tengo una batería nueva en el coche.

¿Alguien puede dar algunos consejos de lo que esto puede ser? [/ Quote]

TENGO UN PROBLEMA CON UN R56 2009 SE BLOQUEO EL TIMÓN Y NO DA SWITCH, ME MARCO CÓDIGOS DEL CAS A0B5/A118 YA SE REPROGRAMO EL CAS Y SIGUE DANDO EL MISMO PROBLEMA, CREO QUE EL PROBLEMA VA POR EL INTERRUPTOR DE ENCENDIDO PERO NECESITO AYUDA QUIZÁS A ALGUIEN MÁS LE SUCEDIÓ?? Ayuda!!!!!!