Hi everyone:

I purchased a used 2006 R53 Auto back in late-August with a little more than 46k miles. Long story short, a few days after purchasing it I noticed "jerking" when going up hills and braking. A mechanic really warned me about it so I brought it back to the MINI dealership where I purchased it. At first, they adapted the tranny and put more fluid in. It improved but was still not great. They ended up putting in a new valve body. It has definitely improved but I seem to notice it (especially when the A/C is on). Today I was driving up the hill to school. The light at the top was just about to turn red so I pressed on the brake. The car jerked so abruptly on the downshift that I actually moved forward in my seat. Before I purchased the car, the mechanic who performed the pre-purchase inspection mentioned that the engine mounts were weak. Could this be part of the issue? Are there any other thoughts?

Thanks!

 

I had a 2006 MCSa that the same thing started happening to. In particular it would always select an inappropriate gear when on any kind of a decline. I had the fluid changed out and it made it better, but my mechanic said that it would probably eventually need a new valve body or a new transmission. So I got rid of it the following week. It had 48k miles on it. It sounds like your one might have gotten to the stage where even a new valve body won't remedy the issue. Mini USA (or at least most Mini dealers) are aware of this issue and simply do not sell r53's with automatic transmissions anymore.

 

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I am pretty nervous about it. I don't notice it everyday but it is still there. Valve body has really improved things. Upon researching, it sounds common even in this old thread. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nshifting.html

Wow. I wonder why the MINI dealership even bothered selling it then. As far as I know, I am still covered under a 3 month drivetrain warranty. Doubt they'd bother replacing the entire tranny though.

This hasn't been the only problem too. Car came with inoperable A/C, faulty right rear caliper (no parking brake), and just today I noticed the doors unlock themselves while I was driving. Fortunately, the dealership fixed the A/C and installed a new right rear caliper. Tranny has me freaked out though. In a way, I am starting to regret my decision.

 

There's a lot of info in the giant Aisin failed at 80K thread. Here are three from H.Chi that might help.

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The correct way to reset adaptions for your tranny is to use a programer. You can use the BMW GT1 or the NCS expert. There is a tranny adaption reset. That is the only way to reset it.

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follow this link to fine tuning your tranny. Sometimes a simple valve body replacement just doesn't completely work out of the box.

http://www.sonnax.com/articles/360-a...n-fwd-6-speeds

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there is adjustments for your valve body, Here is a cut and paste from sonnax. The adjustments were spot on for my sons car.

There are several reasons why you may need to adjust a clutch control valve:

Clutch pack clearance may be different than OE. Always check thickness of replacement steels and frictions.
Bonded pistons may be worn, allowing clutch pressure to leak.
Sealing rings may not be sealing correctly.
Slight wear in the valve body.
The most common shift/engagement complaints are:

Delay/bump into Reverse
2-3 Flare/bump and 4-5 flare
3-4 Flare bump or 3-4 Neutral
Harsh 1-2 and sometimes 5-6
The adjustment depends on how severe the problem is:

Delay into Reverse with a small flare on the 2-3 = K3/C3 turn adjuster counterclockwise 3/4 turn.
Delay/bump into Reverse, 2-3 flare & 4-5 flare = K3/C3 turn adjuster counterclockwise 1 1/2 turns.
3-4 Slight flare = K2/C2 counterclockwise 1 turn.
3-4 Flare/bump = K2/C2 counterclockwise 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turns.
3-4 Neutral = K2/C2 counterclockwise 2-2 1/4 turns.
Firm 1-2 with no flare = B1 clockwise 3/4 - 1 turn.

TF-60SN

 

Thanks for the info! The service manager mentioned that the valve body replacement includes adaptation but I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't performed. Again, valve body has REALLY improved things. Drove yesterday and the day before with the A/C off... pretty darn smooth. Drive it today with the A/C on... another story. I can't figure it out.

 

I don't know anything about the automatic transmissions, but If you're under the 3 month deadline for the drive train, I'd be very proactive with getting them to fix it and keep complaining to them til it is fixed. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, and you only get a limited amount of time before they don't care if you're squeaking or not.

 

I would keep complaining until they either fix the problem or replace the transmission. And if they are not prepared to do either of them then tell them to buy the car back from you.

 

Thanks! I might pay my mechanic to give it another drive test and look over. I think he would be able to tell me whether or not the tranny is still problematic. I might just be too picky but really need to make sure it doesn't cause problems shortly down the road.

 

Thanks! I just spoke with my mechanic. Bringing it in next week so he can take it for another drive test and advise me of anything else that needs work. Will be worth every penny! I have also recently noticed the fan going on more often after turning it off (even when I don't drive it hard). Will bring this up to him as well.

 

As an update, my mechanic was nice enough to take a look for no charge today. He said that it has improved quite a bit but still notices it on hills and under load. He recommends I contact the dealership. I sort of doubt they'd replace the entire tranny or buy it back since I bought it "As-is." Guess it wouldn't hurt to contact them though.

 

I thought you had a 3-month drivetrain warranty on it?

 

That's what the service manager told me. I wonder if it covers the entire transmission or just particular things like the valve body.

 

My view would be that a drivetrain warranty would cover the entire transmission. If it was a manual gearbox I'd understand if it didn't cover the clutch, because that's a wear item

 

In that case, I should email the service manager ASAP. My mechanic also mentioned that it might be difficult to duplicate the problem on a drive test. It seems to occur most on hills. Unfortunately, the area around the dealership is mostly flat.

 

My advice is 1, read your policy/drivetrain warranty carefully to see what it does and doesn't cover, but in my mind, a drive train warranty would cover the engine from the valve cover to the oil pan, and the transmission from the engine output shaft to the wheel hubs. 2 start documenting every conversation you have at the dealership. When it was, who it was with, and what they said. 3 insist on them reproducing the conditions that it happens. If you have to ride/drive with them then do it.

It might be nothing, or it might be a new transmission, but you should find out before it's too late. You have much better chance of some reimbursement if your transmission fails the day after your warranty expires if you've been in there multiple times complaining about the transmission and you have documentation of your trips in.

You catch more flies with honey than vinegar so I wouldn't be a ****, but I'd bet you're in for a fight over this so do what you can to stack the odds in your favor.

 

I would also suggest not getting your mechanic to do any work on that transmission himself. If he replaces anything then the Mini dealer are likely to blame that for the failure!!

 

Thanks for the advice! I didn't even realize that it came with a 3 month drivetrain warranty until the service manager told me. I am planning on emailing him today or tomorrow (also CC the general manager) and advise him that the problem still occurs intermittently. I'll also tell him that I am worried I'll need a whole new tranny shortly after the warranty expires.

The funny part is that their lead mechanic told me that they have had a 100% success rate by just replacing the valve body. He also mentioned that most people just live with it.

I have been extremely busy lately but I really need to take care of this ASAP.

 

Thanks! Not a bad idea. My mechanic changed the tranny fluid shortly after I bought it. That was when he advised me that the previous fluid was black or burnt.

 

Service manager replied this morning and asked when I'd like to bring it in. He said that I can ride with the shop foreman. Hopefully I can duplicate the problem. Unfortunately, there aren't many hills around the dealership. Does it make sense that the A/C can cause it as well?

 

Not really

 

Oh. Can the paddle shifters help to show the rough shift? Let's just hope it decides to act up while on the drive. Hoping to bring it in on Friday. Will update this thread after the drive test.

 

It has been very smooth lately but went to the dealership today and rode with their lead mechanic just in case. It was fine. I have a thought though. After the valve body replacement, all was good. The problem started occurring again after they replaced the right rear caliper. Perhaps they disconnected the battery during their world class inspection (or whatever they call it) and that caused the adaptations to go away so the car had to relearn my driving style. Is that a possibility?

 

You can figure this out once and for all by getting the car on a dyno. If there are problems with the transmission itself, or the valve body, the data from the 'pull' will show it . . i.e. there won't be a smooth HP / torque curve.

They should not have disconnected the battery during their inspection. Nor should they have had to disconnect the battery to replace a brake caliper.

This is not an issue that comes and goes - it is always there. Yes, it will only show up in certain driving situations, but in those situations (i.e. driving down a hill at 20 to 30 mph) it should always be there.

 

Thanks! It has been very smooth this past week (on hills, surface streets, and freeways). I still find it weird that I noticed the same problem reappear immediately after picking it up from the brake caliper replacement.

The lead mechanic told me that in his 10 years at MINI, he has not seen a single R53 auto transmission fail. He also mentioned that as the car ages, shifts will be less smooth.

 

That mechanic is lying to you then