Supercharger conundrum - what to do
#1
Supercharger conundrum - what to do
2004 MCS, 150K, undergoing major refresh. I have two superchargers sitting on my workbench; can't decide which one to install. # 1 has been in the car for 140K; OE pulley; plain rotors; no problems; drained an appropriate amount of oil in each end prior to refilling. # 2 I bought from a NAM member last year; no pulley; coated rotors; 60-90K I think; seller had drained the PTO oil and inspected the gears prior to sale; they look perfect. My choices:
A. Reinstall s/c # 1 that I removed. Certainly the safest and cheapest choice; should last another 100K or more.
B. Buy a 15% pulley kit (pulley, belt, and plugs) and install s/c # 2.
C. Buy a 15% pulley kit but install on s/c # 1.
What do folks recommend?
A. Reinstall s/c # 1 that I removed. Certainly the safest and cheapest choice; should last another 100K or more.
B. Buy a 15% pulley kit (pulley, belt, and plugs) and install s/c # 2.
C. Buy a 15% pulley kit but install on s/c # 1.
What do folks recommend?
#2
If charger A has been on the car for 140k miles there is a slim chance that you'll get another 100k out of it. I would recommend opening up the lower hour charger and take a look at it, if it's in good shape then reseal it, refill it with oil, throw a pulley on it, and enjoy it.
But everything comes down to which of them looks the best on the inside. And there are variables that you can't see either, like bearing wear, preload, endplay, etc. If you wanted a perfect world answer I'd tell you to have one of them rebuilt and not take the chance.
But everything comes down to which of them looks the best on the inside. And there are variables that you can't see either, like bearing wear, preload, endplay, etc. If you wanted a perfect world answer I'd tell you to have one of them rebuilt and not take the chance.
#3
I'm kinda in the same boat. I'm repairing some leaks on my son's 2004S and I just about have the SC out. The car has 190K. It needs a new exhaust as well.
I'm thinking rebuild so I don't have to worry about it for a while. Plus, I love the car. It's a blast to drive.
Where is the best place to have one rebuilt? How much does it cost normally?
I'm thinking rebuild so I don't have to worry about it for a while. Plus, I love the car. It's a blast to drive.
Where is the best place to have one rebuilt? How much does it cost normally?
#4
I'm kinda in the same boat. I'm repairing some leaks on my son's 2004S and I just about have the SC out. The car has 190K. It needs a new exhaust as well.
I'm thinking rebuild so I don't have to worry about it for a while. Plus, I love the car. It's a blast to drive.
Where is the best place to have one rebuilt? How much does it cost normally?
I'm thinking rebuild so I don't have to worry about it for a while. Plus, I love the car. It's a blast to drive.
Where is the best place to have one rebuilt? How much does it cost normally?
Or we have rebuilt units on the shelf ready to ship.
DT Super Charger
#5
You can look into Stiegemeier for rebuilding service: http://stiegemeier.com/services/supe...ld-and-repair/
Or we have rebuilt units on the shelf ready to ship.
DT Super Charger
Or we have rebuilt units on the shelf ready to ship.
DT Super Charger
I see that DT Super Charger is $1400. Does that include the $500 core charge?
If so, what would prevent the core charge from being refunded (other than NOT returning the core)?
#6
We have really only had one core that wasn't refundable and that was because it had rotor damage. If the rotors and case are in good shape you'll get a return, the PTO housing doesn't matter nor does the gearset in either the front or rear as that is all rebuildable.
#7
Yes, the price includes the nearly always returned core charge. The charger is $849 plus the $500 refundable core.
We have really only had one core that wasn't refundable and that was because it had rotor damage. If the rotors and case are in good shape you'll get a return, the PTO housing doesn't matter nor does the gearset in either the front or rear as that is all rebuildable.
We have really only had one core that wasn't refundable and that was because it had rotor damage. If the rotors and case are in good shape you'll get a return, the PTO housing doesn't matter nor does the gearset in either the front or rear as that is all rebuildable.
I believe I'm going to order one from you. Do I need an RMA to return the core? I'll wait for the new one (and its packaging) before I return it.
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#8
Just include a copy of your receipt or a slip with your name on it and we'll know what to do with it!
You could even send your core in before hand if the car is a second car and negate the core charge all together!
You could even send your core in before hand if the car is a second car and negate the core charge all together!
#9
I pulled my original one out at 190,000 miles because I was nervous, stuck a new one it then. When I rebuild my engine earlier this year I stuck back in the original. It still had oil in it when I pulled it, so I just replaced the oil, have another 10,000 miles or so since the rebuild. It now has over 200k, all but 30k with a 15% pulley, and the last 10 with a 2% overdrive crank pulley too.
Nik
Nik
#15
There is no gasket for the PTO housing or nose cone, just a wax sealant. We've had good luck with black RTV as well.
Oil in the SC isn't abnormal, the PCV system passes through the intake tract, so oil is normal.
Oil in the SC isn't abnormal, the PCV system passes through the intake tract, so oil is normal.
#16
Why is any sealant of any kind needed? Mine had zero sealant or wax on it. Just curious.
#17