Hi,

On cooler days (below 50 degrees F) my check engine light and traction control light will come on. On subsequent recranks the traction control light will go out, but the check engine light will stay on. If it warms up to the upper 50s the lights will go out.

I plugged in my obd reader and it says that I have a P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Code. Other than doing the obvious and changing the sensor any idea what else could cause if to come on? Particularly with the traction control light?

 

Hi ewgoforth,
Make sure your battery is holding around 14 volts. cold weather can bring it down and all of a sudden codes seem to throw. If the battery is old, get a premium battery in it. It has helped me on several Minis at this point.
I typically find these codes with weak batteries ABS, CPS, engine miss fire. Don't ask me why! Cold just does freaky things!

 

When you say 14 Volts you mean the voltage with the engine running, I assume? I'm pretty sure I can read the system voltage with my ODB Bluetooth adapter and my smart phone.

 

Yes, typically it will read 14.1 to 14.2, but when you test the battery before starting it the first time in a day, the battery should be at least 12.5 to 13.4 volts. (yes, a good charged battery should hold those numbers)

 

I had that problem too. Its all related to the sensor. Swap it out and it will go away.

 

Check the connection at the plug first, If you still get it, swap it out. 12141485845

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ft-sensor.html

 

Hi, I’m new here, and I have that same problem. I just replaced the camshaft position sensor and I still have the same issue. What should I look for next?

 

You had this issue before and after a camshaft position sensor replacement?
Did you replace the old sensor with a new OEM sensor?

It was also recommended that your battery be in tip-top condition, as weak batteries can trigger odd electrical codes.

Have you checked your battery voltage in the morning when cold as suggested?
You might want to bring the battery to a local auto parts store and have them test it.

Are you also having the traction control lamp issue that the OP reported?

 

Camshaft position sensor that I put in was an OEM spec but not made by BMW. It has been in one day. I tested the battery myself with a multimeter and got 12.6 resting voltage and 14.2 while running at idle. And yes, I get the traction control light every time that I give it any amount of throttle or when I rev the engine at a standstill. Sometimes at lower r. p.m. when I try to engage the supercharger a little bit, the engine will miss And act like it’s running on 3 cylinders, or limo mode as it’s climbimg up the RPM range. It seems to run much better in the high rpm range.

 

Yes I had this issue before and after the camshaft position sensor replacement. It’s actually triggering the check engine light and traction control light more often now than before the change.

 

Since I was getting more Service Engine Soon lights and the DSC light, I got the seller to send me another Camshaft Position Sensor.
I installed that one, checked all the connections, disconnected the battery ground for nearly an hour, and then had the same issues.
Runs great at high rpm’s but if I give it somewhat heavy throttle at low rpm, under 2000*/-, it limps, sputters, etc, until I back off and wait until the rpm’s are higher.
It only does this when the DSC light is on.
Now l’m wondering if it’s related to a traction control sensor (DSC). ??

 

Have you checked to see if you have any codes?

 

For those live in frigid winter snow belt, instead of replacing the battery with the same group, Costco has a (Interstate) battery that is slightly longer (wider on the long ends) that will fit R53. I bought one and is a perfect fit. All I did was measure the max dimensions of the battery box and went to Costco. 5 minutes and I found one.

Costco H6 (left), factory H5 (center), Walmart H5 (right)






the larger H6 from Costco dropped in like a glove


original battery for comparision

 

Yes that’s why the name of this thread starts with P0340. LOL.
But on a more serious note, it got another code too but I can’t tecall what it was. I’ll run a scan again and post it.
Thanks.

 

As you said it was triggering the CEL light more I was wondering if you had more than one code.

 

Just a comment, but in the battery photos you've got yellow/red (& a black) wires connected to the positive terminal (& to ground). It is zip-tied to the ground cable. I'm not sure this is a good practice. I assume this is after-market/non-standard wiring.
Given MINI/BMW hyper-sensitivity to wiring modifications, is it possible that there is some kind of leakage going on between the ground cable & the zip-tied cable?
I think I'd move both the yellow/red & black cables well away from that ground cable, or disconnect them altogether for a while & see if makes any difference.

 

I know from past construction issues that AC and DC can mix when non-shielded wire is used but as the engine system is DC and as ground wires are present in many harness portions, I am thinking it is not an issue.

But an interesting question that hopefully some electrical techie will chime in on.

 

Sorry it took me some time to rescan the car.
This morning I checked the cold battery before starting the car and got 12.3 volts, and 14.6 volts running. So all good there.

Then I checked the existing fault codes and saw it had been throwing 4 codes. Keep in mind this past week I have been purposely making the car miss and sputter by giving heavier throttle at low rpm’s (as noted in my earlier posts). I read those codes and got the following...
P0340 Camshaft PS
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P1477 Reed Valve Switch
P1498 Emissions etc.

I then cleared the codes and restarted the car. At only idle it threw P0340. Clearing that one does no good as it comes right back.

Background on the car: 2005 Mini Cooper S, 166k miles. Former owners always had Mini dealer or Mini Worx repair the car.

It it would be great if I could find someone near me to take a look at the car for diagnosis. I’m in So Cal.

Thanks

 

A camshaft sensor is not that expensive but have you checked the wiring around the sensor?

 

I put in a new CPS, twice in 2 weeks. No improvement.
I have checked the wiring and nearby vacuum lines and it looks ok. I have not checked the voltage at those wires (don’t know how to)
i have not yet pulled the Suoercharger to Check vacuum lines and connectors there, as mentioned in related threads.

 

With the 0302 code, have you tried a dollar bill test?

 

Nope. What is that?

 

Check out this thread

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...loss-help.html

 

Thanks for trying to help.

 

Just one guy that drives a MINI helping another guy that drives a MINI.

Keep us advised on what you find. Our Gen1s are getting older and more and more of us are going to need help.