Well. Fortunately, after several failed attempts over the last month of trying to create an account on here, I finally got it.

Unfortunately, the R56s I bought two months ago is literally making a dump right now. In a bit of a bind. Bought this car from a dealership, knew i was overpaying, then add 2k on top because i owed on my trade in. Only went upside down because it was a cheaper debt, and I wanted to keep this car for life, so I didn't mind.

HOWEVER. I have a P0301 code, Cylinder 1 misfire. Only code I get. I changed the spark plugs, even when the other ones were good. Same code. I changed the coils from 1 to 4 and 4 to 1, so if the problem followed, it is the coil. "So far" it didn't follow. However, I did it 3 days ago, and was just able to clear my codes yesterday. So it may take a 100 miles or so for it to pop again.

Yesterday..... I did a compression test..... from right to left I got:
180psi , 60psi, 165psi, 175psi

Correct me if I am wrong, the cylinder #'s are from right to left as you looking at the head lights, 1,2,3,4?

I have researched and understand they fire, 1,3,4,2.

Basically what I am asking is the firing order, the cylinder numbers as well or nah?

Back to the compression issue, I threw a dab of oil in the 2nd cylinder, it jumped to 150psi. Seal? That's what I am thinking.

Unfortunately, I owe over 11k on this car. So I'm stuck at spending over a grand in labor to replace a $50 part.

Really f**** right now. At the moment, my car is probably worth like 3k. and I owe over 11. Just wanna cry dude.

 

Bummer, looks like piston rings. How many miles?

 

That's is what i'm thinking. Doesn't explain a complete different code though, only getting one code, for misfire in cylinder 1.


Right under 85k miles.

 

#1 is on the passenger side --- #4 is next to the flywheel. Don't know, and haven't needed to know the firing order --- and I've successfully done most all of my own engine work.

Your #2 seems to have bad rings, but could be something else. Fixing #2 might take care of your misfire while you're in there --- who knows what else you'll find. I suggest you get a diagnosis from a reliable and Mini-knowledgeable shop, unless you do your own work.

As for owing more than it's worth, if you want to keep it "indefinitely", what you put into it doesn't really matter. Mine is an "adult toy" with a significant bundle of money invested, and it's been in my garage for the last six months with a couple more to go before it's on the road again. Fortunately, I have a second car, a big comfortable, reliable, sedan to use.

 

That's the conclusion is rings so far. I'm not a car guy. at all. But I'm trying to work my way into it. I'm military, so we have a hobby shop that I can use that has everything I need to pull an engine, with a lot of friends that have done it before. However, from the extensive research I have been doing for the past month and a half, if your non a mini expert, you should probably not try to work on one? haha. That's the thing, I am in NC, I'm not sure of any shops near me that have Mini experience, and I'm afraid to go drop a buck 50 to get a diagnoses, then they tell me to buy and replace a part, and that not be the problem, a waist of time and money.

So far, I change the spark plugs and moved the coils from 1 to 4. Cleared the code, waiting for it to come back, did the compression check myself, obviously #2 seems to have a seal problem. Just need to find a way to do a leak down, I have the compressor, just not sure of the tool to put in the spark plugs position to spray the air in.

Another thing I think I'm gonna look at but haven't research much bc I was told by the dealer it was normal, is the ticking. I don't know how to describe it with out someone thinking it's not a big deal or someone thinking it is the end of the world. It's there. constantly, but it doesn't sound like it's destroying anything just a constant rhythm of ticking.

 

chiming in...there are two types of compression: dry and wet. I suggest redoing the tests again and compare the numbers...Dry first.

Also, there are more than rings that can lower your compression numbers: bent valve, worn valve seal, bad compression tool.

I never worked on minis or any car for that matter, but after two months of waiting for my mechanic to give me some good news about my first 09 S, i said, enough with this. I took matters to my own hands and invested in some tools, software package, and a hoist. I can humbly say I know my way around mini

so, one step at a time. if this is your only car, get a honda civic for now till this is fixed.

 

I never understood why guys in the military (2 of our sons were/are in Navy) don't lease their cars. Usually they don't have much extra $$ for big down payment but as an E6 they have a steady paycheck and you can lease for like $170/mo. But they buy and borrow all this money and end up with cars that break and cost them more money. Next time lease a new Honda, warranty, brand new, same money down !

 

Because, I'm an E3. lmao. I pay a little on top of my payment, and it is still $220 a month. Not that big of a deal. No, it is NOT smart to go out and buy a brand new car, anyone will tell you that, ESPECIALLY being in the military. You have a steady paycheck, sure, but you don't have a guarantee re-enlistment. So buying that brand new car at 25k (far and few between) on a 6 year note, it last past your enlistment, you then don't have a steady paycheck, and will surely be struggling your first year out trying to get situated back in a career. So, I understand what you are saying. However, that is far fetched. A brand new car is a good way to get into financial issues when you are low ranking, and on your first enlistment. And my MOS (military occupational specialty, i.e. job) is closed out (not promoting, due to having to many of the next rank). I had a 14 GT mustang, and did a HUGE downgrade. ONLY because 1. I wanted a mini since i was like 14. 2. It was 17k cheaper 3. I needed a truck for my family and my lifestyle, and plan on buying a truck cash in 6 months. Best of both worlds. Still get a truck, still have something to play with.

 

What do you mean "Dry" and "wet". I first did the compression tests as is, took out the fuse that goes to the fuel, it was as stated before. I then put a dab of oil in cylinder 2 and it jumped from 60 psi to 150psi. I imagine it's a piston seal.

Buddy of mine does his own work in his garage, has a hoist and has already done a ton of swaps and engine removals and rebuilds. I plan on hopefully doing the work myself. HOWEVER, From the research I have been doing, you better have some mini knowledge otherwise it's very easy to destroy the car.

 

I would go with a valve issue as opposed to piston. or even a head gasket. The "seal" you speak of is actually piston rings designed to seal compression as the piston moves up and down. A blown head gasket will cause a loss of compression, and a burned valve will cause loss as well. Since either way, piston rings, head gasket, or burned valve, the head still has to be removed...good luck with it...and thanks for your service...

 

This is almost my exact situation. Back in September, I bought a 2009 Mini Cooper s for $5500. I was told it had carbon build up which needed to be taken care of. Anyway, I drove it for about 1000 miles and replaced cylinder 3's spark plug like 2-3 times before it went into limp mode. Took it up to the dealer and sure enough cylinder 3 was low on compression. Pulled the engine and come to find out part of the wall on the piston was gone, rings gone... (no wonder my plugs were fouling so quick). Currently, I am waiting on some forged rods and it going back in with both forged rods and pistons as well as other parts here and there. Good luck

 

dry test is when you test the cylinder after the car sat for a while and the combustion chamber is dry.
wet test is when you add oil (just like you did) and notice a difference between the two tests.