Knocking noise 05 r52
#1
Knocking noise 05 r52
I'm might be tripping but at times I hear my motor making a knocking nosie after driving for a while... Not majorly loud but very noticable difference... Tonight it did it at start up and seems louder when I went to a gas station... After restarting to go back home it was quite again until I got closer home and could hear the faint knock again...
What should I check for? Oil looks good..
What should I check for? Oil looks good..
#2
I'm looking at getting a 2005 Mini Cooper S...
I just drove it for the first time. I haven't had time to have my mechanic man look at it, but the Check Engine light is on, along with the ABS/Brake light (which I knew was an issue told to me by the owner).
I noticed an "Odd" sound too that is somewhat of a "knocking noise"... so I'm doing my research.
I don't really hear it when shifting up through the gears, but if I'm steady at 5th/6th it is prominent. It's a steady "knocking" sound, I didn't notice any speeding up or slowing down depending on my speed (though... I plan on checking that again tonight after work).
Have you noticed any similarities? Is you're still knocking?
I just drove it for the first time. I haven't had time to have my mechanic man look at it, but the Check Engine light is on, along with the ABS/Brake light (which I knew was an issue told to me by the owner).
I noticed an "Odd" sound too that is somewhat of a "knocking noise"... so I'm doing my research.
I don't really hear it when shifting up through the gears, but if I'm steady at 5th/6th it is prominent. It's a steady "knocking" sound, I didn't notice any speeding up or slowing down depending on my speed (though... I plan on checking that again tonight after work).
Have you noticed any similarities? Is you're still knocking?
#3
How many miles are on the cars? Is the knock from inside the motor or outside. You know the difference between a Ping (caused by using non premium gas) and a Knock? A knock inside is a bearing or possibly the chain that runs from the crank to the cam. If it is outside, could be a belt tensioner, the crank harmonic dampener, a motor mount or a suspension issue.
For the car with the CEL, you need to find out what code is involved. I would not touch the car with the CEL. The owner should pay to figure out what the code is not the buyer. A buyer that does not know much about a Mini can get a Mini Mechanic to do a PPI (pre purchase inspection). There is a recent thread where a person did a PPI and found the car required about $2,000 in repairs. They passed as the Owner did not want to deduct the costs from the sales price.
For the car with the CEL, you need to find out what code is involved. I would not touch the car with the CEL. The owner should pay to figure out what the code is not the buyer. A buyer that does not know much about a Mini can get a Mini Mechanic to do a PPI (pre purchase inspection). There is a recent thread where a person did a PPI and found the car required about $2,000 in repairs. They passed as the Owner did not want to deduct the costs from the sales price.
#4
How many miles are on the cars? Is the knock from inside the motor or outside. You know the difference between a Ping (caused by using non premium gas) and a Knock? A knock inside is a bearing or possibly the chain that runs from the crank to the cam. If it is outside, could be a belt tensioner, the crank harmonic dampener, a motor mount or a suspension issue.
For the car with the CEL, you need to find out what code is involved. I would not touch the car with the CEL. The owner should pay to figure out what the code is not the buyer. A buyer that does not know much about a Mini can get a Mini Mechanic to do a PPI (pre purchase inspection). There is a recent thread where a person did a PPI and found the car required about $2,000 in repairs. They passed as the Owner did not want to deduct the costs from the sales price.
For the car with the CEL, you need to find out what code is involved. I would not touch the car with the CEL. The owner should pay to figure out what the code is not the buyer. A buyer that does not know much about a Mini can get a Mini Mechanic to do a PPI (pre purchase inspection). There is a recent thread where a person did a PPI and found the car required about $2,000 in repairs. They passed as the Owner did not want to deduct the costs from the sales price.
I only drove it briefly, the man is going to come and give it a test drive/listen and read the codes in an hour or so... so I'll be able to tell you more.
The car is owned by my boss... my vehicle, 2010 Acadia is broke down. So he offered to give me the Mini. He has already said to get it checked out and if I find too much trouble to not take it because he doesn't want that added on to my plate. I'm ok with minor fixes, as I have someone who can do the work... which is why I'm interested in this noise I hearing. I will definitely find out what all will be involved in getting this car. Last thing I need is two non-working vehicles.
He has said it needs an oil change, and the already mentioned brake issue. Those two things are minor... along with the passenger door not opening from inside/outside. The man has already said if it's something more extensive, he wants it anyway.
#5
#6
It had 146k I think... around that amount, with the vast majority of those being highway (though... honestly, I don't know why the significance some place on Hwy vs Town mileage).
I'm pretty sure he has maintained it well, but we'll know more once the man gets to reading codes and a proper test drive. He drove it home for me and said he didn't hear/notice anything off... but... it wasn't a long drive. I will force the issue tonight though, because I want to know what the codes are.
I'm pretty sure he has maintained it well, but we'll know more once the man gets to reading codes and a proper test drive. He drove it home for me and said he didn't hear/notice anything off... but... it wasn't a long drive. I will force the issue tonight though, because I want to know what the codes are.
#7
When encountering this on a first gen MINI. First thing to do is check the terminals on the coil pack. Specifically the terminal ( If left hand drive ) closest to the driver. Pull the plug wire off the connector at the coil pack and inspect.
For some reason, that #3 terminal RUSTS and corrodes badly causing engine knock. Use a green scrunge side of a sponge to clean it up, nothing too abrasive. Clean the corrosion out of the plug wire's connector as well, then reconnect.
If connectors are good, then you may just need new plugs.
For some reason, that #3 terminal RUSTS and corrodes badly causing engine knock. Use a green scrunge side of a sponge to clean it up, nothing too abrasive. Clean the corrosion out of the plug wire's connector as well, then reconnect.
If connectors are good, then you may just need new plugs.