It's time for my state inspection, and among the things keeping my R53 from passing is the dreaded P2096.

It's a 2003 MCS, with 127,000+ miles on it. It runs fine, without any noticeable hesitation unless the a/c is on.

The Bentley Manual indicates that P2096 means the post-cat O2 sensor reports Too Lean. It also indicates it may be a fuel delivery problem. I've read many of the threads on here about this code, to the point that I am confused about where to start and what the current wisdom is. Some folks claim fuel filter/fuel pump, some claim O2 sensors, some claim exhaust leaks, some claim MAP/TMAP (puzzling to me), some claim FPR. I saw a TSB that indicates the sensors are frequently not the problem.

As background, I replaced the pre-cat and post-cat Oxygen sensors at 99,000 miles per MINI recommendation (no error codes at that time), using NTK parts. So I am not expecting the O2 sensors to be bad, though I do know that it is possible for one of them to have failed prematurely. I have inspected the wires (without removing the sensors) and at least know that they look ok, at least superficially!

I am going to do as much of the work myself as I can possibly do because I can't dump a bunch of money in the car at this time. And I don't want to throw parts at it to solve it.

I am thinking about picking up a fuel pressure gauge and measuring fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail to see if it is fuel supply related.

I have an iCarSoft i910 tool (not the i910-II), which covers that MINI R53, and I have tried to clear the 2096 code with the tool, and though the tool claims it has cleared it, the SES does not turn off and a re-read of the error codes shows it is still there. I am aware that only some scan tools will clear the code, but I have had some luck clearing other codes with the tool in the past, so I am a little surprised that it won't clear the p2096.

I have monitored the pre-cat and post-cat voltages, and they seem ok to my inexperienced eye (toggling between ~0.2 and ~0.7 V), other than some scan tool glitch which occasionally has the raw pre-cat voltage spiking at over 100V. I say it is a scan tool glitch because these spikes show up even with the car off!

Does anyone know if I can reset the fuel adaptations with the iCarSoft i910?

Also, I recently had the battery disconnected for several hours as I was trying to dry out a wet battery compartment (yep, I have the airbag light with a 0B positive battery terminal isolation problem too!), and even after having the battery disconnected for hours the Service Engine Soon light was on immediately and the P2096 code there.

Can anyone distill the current wisdom on the P2096 problem?

I am in Providence, RI if anyone local to me has a tool that will clear this code and/or adaptations and is willing to help another NAM member out.

 

Has the crank pulley been replaced?

If you frequent an autoparts store, perhaps they have a reader that will also reset your code.

 

Hello and thank you for your response

The crank pulley has never been replaced to my knowledge (at least not in the last 60,000 miles). But I am unclear as to what would that have to do with a P2096 code. Is the crank pulley known to be associated with a P2096, and if so, what is the theory? There are no weird noises and everything seems to be running smoothly, codes notwithstanding.

 

You said the car slows when the AC is on and I am wondering whether the belt is slipping (supercharger will not spin) that in turns tweaks the alternator and will low voltage you gets lots of strange codes.

 

I see. Yes, it slows when the AC is on. I just internalized this as normal behavior as it has done so since the day I bought it. Hmm. I just changed the alternator and the serpentine belt something like 3,000 miles ago, and did not notice anything but maybe I didn't look hard enough.

 

To test the pulley, take the tension off the belt, then try to push the pulley toward the motor, if the pulley will hit the motor, the rubber is rotten.

 

Thanks.

First, I've got to get these codes cleared so I can pass state inspection. If I can't do that, then there is no point in pursuing it further.

 

Pretty sure that even if you get the codes reset the ECU has a flag that the inspection place can detect. Believe there are some drive cycles required before the flag is removed,

 

Hello,

Yes, that is my understanding as well. I have heard it must run for something like 100 miles, though I don't know the actual number of miles.

What I meant was, I need to solve the problem(s) that is generating emission codes before I worry about the potential loss of power due to a crank pulley. Unless, of course, the crank pulley were somehow causing the problem. But I don't think that is likely.

 

The Bentley manual says it takes 40 consecutive clear drive cycles for a code to be wiped from memory, or 80 consecutive cycles to clear a catalyst damaging fault from memory.

 

 

I could not clear the 2096 code with my diagnostic tool. I mean I could clear it, but it would be back immediately at next start, without even driving anywhere. Of course, that means the computer had not had any time to monitor the sensors so the code should not be there until I had driven something like 20 miles. So I decided that it might be a so-called "hard code" that only the dealer could clear based on posts on this forum (incorrect!). I decided to have Inskip MINI update all the software on the DME, etc. BIG MISTAKE!

I took it there, and their shop foreman tried to do the programming (I did not have him go through a full diagnostic on it). Here's his report:

*"attempted to connect to vehicle. unable to read out vehicle information. manually entered info. programmed DME to latest software. _coding of other modules failed_. fault present after programming 2096 o2 sensor gas composition fault. would require further diagnosis to proceed any further."*

The way the service advisor explained it prior to my talking with the shop foreman, they were unable to clear the 2096 code. They claimed the DME VIN did not match the car or the other modules in the car. I don't understand that, as I would think that the key would then have the wrong VIN in order for the car to start, and yet when they read the key at the service counter, the VIN that is on the tag at the windshield comes up on their reader.

I spoke with the tech briefly (though not very effectively, as I was in shock at the idea that I won't be able to keep my car due to the repair expense so I didn't ask all the right questions). But one thing I did confirm was that the code should have cleared, and it didn't clear for him either. He suggested replacing the catalytic converter as a first step, but agreed that even if the cat were the problem and replaced, the O2 sensor code still won't be able to be cleared unless it somehow does so on its own. It's unclear what the problem could be... so now it is sounding like an awful lot of money! and I don't know what to do... so the car has sat in my driveway ever since. It also has an airbag light that is on from moving the seats forward/back. Before the reprogramming, I could use my code reader to clear the light and it was not a big deal. After the programming, the code reader can no longer communicate with the airbag module.

I think the dealer was completely wrong to suggest changing out the cat without having done any diagnostic, especially given that the code should have cleared and it didn't. I've lost faith in them.

I did a search here on NAM and saw a post regarding the DME/EWS (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-dme-swap.html)

I really would like to get the car back on the road, but it won't pass inspection as is.

 

Buy a new o2 sensor and you have to use a BavTech tool to clar the hard stored code in the rom of the ECU. A basic code reader can not clear hard codes in the ROM.

Also you only need to drive 40 miles for the emissions like to change to a “ready’ status after you clear the hard stored code with the correct tool.

I have done this myself twice and have done this for others local to me.

 

^^^I wish it were that simple. I have a code reader that is specific to MINI/BMW, and it is capable of clearing the P2096. The dealer wasn't able to clear it either. The O2 sensors aren't the problem. I've swapped them without successfully clearing the code. I believe that the problem is the computer itself, or the harness.

 

Ugh, now that sucks.

 

My exhaust header was cracked at the collector. Replaced with a scorpion. Had a bmw specialist with GT1 software reset it, that was 30k ago

 

Will your code reader show live data? In order to diagnose codes like this you need to be able to see live data to see what is going on otherwise you are just throwing parts.

You can watch the voltage at both O2 sensors and see where the discrepancy is.

Use the P0420 diagnostics as a reference as to where the O2 voltage should be during the drive cycle.

Compare that to your data and the difference should be dramatic and obvious.

 

 

I'm also having the same P2096. No other codes. Car drives fine. Spoke to my friend/mechanic who thinks it's an electrical problem. Also read somewhere that when they traced the post cat O2 wires they found an issue. So on that note where is the ECU located? Is it the computer that's mounted next to the air filter box?
I was thinking of doing a continuity test from the O2 connector to the ECU.
Any recommendations?

 

I am also stuck with this hard code 2096 for the past 11 months. It resets with mini/bmw schauben tool, but then returns next start cycle. I few months ago I couldn't reset at all "ecu reject." I then did a supercharger service (all vacuum lines, intake pipe fine) and the battery was disconnect for a couple weeks. after that could get reset and then drove 20 miles and it comes back again at next restart. crank pulley, serpentine belt tensionor and belt new, MAP sensor, o2 sensors, changed... no exhaust leak found... preceeding work down proactively.... I won't be able to get pass inspection.... Next I'll see about TMAP....

Its very frustrating, that my 2005 r53 JCW slick top, LSD, currently at 89k may not be dive able d/t this code after next inspection. Car runs strong.... any suggestions...

 

Here is a thought. I had a similar issue with a different german car. The problem was with the ECU. Not common, but it happens. Just a thought.

 

Given that this is for the rear O2 sensor, isn't it possible to enter the ECU with a tuning device and code it out entirely / permanently set readiness? I believe I've read somewhere around here that the RMW tunes disable the CEL from the rear O2 sensor (which is what this all is to begin with).

Other than that, based on what I'm reading in this thread, I'd check the wiring between the post-cat O2 sensor and the ECU, and see if you can try a spare ECU entirely (known-good spare).

 

I’ve been trying to get the 2096 resolved too. Driving me nuts. The the original poster or anyone else ever get it resolved? Is there a tuner that can resolve the CEL light?

 

I ended up purchasing the odbii connector & software & it cleared it right up. Light hasn't turned back on since. Purchased it on Amazon for less than $20. Give me a few and I'll post the name.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RM32XT2/ref

 

Was it INPA that you used to clear the code? I’ve been having trouble running INPA but have been clearing the code with a Bluetooth Kiwi 4. It just comes back.