Hi everybody,

I'm wondering if it is possible to replace a timing chain on an '03 R53 without removing the engine. Is it possible to access everything through the right wheel well? Has anyone done the job like that before?

Thanks!

 

Check out this video series...it's not an 03...but a GEN2 07 model but it should be very similar.

 

Going to move you to the Stock Problems/Issues area. I cannot remember how much space there is between the chain and the engine case. I put a different cam in so had the valve cover off, the cam and the tensioner. Modmini has a video on replacing the tensioner so you may be able to see if there is clearance in the video.

I am thinking the chain guide would be bolted in below the cam and if that can be removed you should be able to get the chain off the crank gear and then pull it up through the engine.

 

Yes we do the timing chain by removing the pass wheel well and out the top. We have a kit for you as this is what we use in our shop
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...0-r52-r53.html

 

I'm also looking for a timing chain guide. I've seen modminis (incomplete really) guide, and a r56 guide, but I need one for a r52 (my brothers). Does anyone have a link to a DIY?

 

Guide or oil tensioner? If the guide, why, worn?

 

lol, sorry by guide, I mean manual. He already replaced the tensioner but still had the rattle, so he bought a new timing chain etc. We're doing a pulley and some other proactive maintenance stuff while we're in there.

My brother has his car ripped apart right now and we were following the r56 DIY but we want one for a /3 to make sure we're not messing up. We are still learning, not career mechanics. We have the oil pan off, the cover, and are pretty much ready to pull out the chain, but need some reassurance we're not missing something. We have all the tools etc, just want to take our time and make sure we dont mess up timing etc.

Also, we were entirely sure how to use the cam lock tool he bought. We have the one part on there that locks the upper sprocket, but the other part.. no idea. I dont see how we lock down the valves and pistons while we remove the chain. The tool we bought has no instructions included..

Is there a paper guide or pdf about timing chain replacement around somewhere?! We are considering buying the Bentley manual, but would like to avoid the expense for this one job. We likely wont need it again. Anyone want to text me a pic of those pages?!

 

Mark both the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket with some white out or paint so you know for sure where the chain goes in relationship to the gears. I am thinking the chain has marks on it as well. Logically would need to pull the harmonic damper so you can remove the plate behind it to access the lower sprocket. With the oil tensioner out that will allow the guide to push back, thinking there would be plenty of room to get the chain out.

The only question I have is what end do you do first, lower or upper, as with the upper you need to jack the engine up that may impact the ability to access the lower connectors.

 

The ModMini video has step by step on how to get the cam gear off. I did not have the special tool and had no issues. The tool should have two studs that need to line up with the holes in the cam gear. Rotate the engine to get the holes to line up.

 

I have said it before but have you noticed that Mod is not too far off from God? In other words, thank you Modmini.

 

Yah I know that guy is awesome. I wish he still made videos (I messaged him, you should too)! I cant believe he didnt do a r53 timing chain removal. In what video did you see him take the cam gear off? I like the idea of marking the chain and sprockets. There is a key on the sprocket "axle" so it can only go on one way, right? But how do I make sure the pistons and cam doesnt move while I'm messing around with it? Does it not really matter as long as I'm not free spinning the cam and axle around because of the key - it will sort of be obvious where it has to go back in and may have only shifted a tiny bit?

I'm terrified to lose timing and toast his motor the first time we crank it over. When we were rotating the crank, we heard a loud pop and I thought the chain jumped a tooth at the bottom- thats what it felt like anyway and I saw the chain move/vibrate quite a bit - Even though the tensioner is still on there, there was a lot of slack on the chain because the guide is toast/gone - a few parts were down in the pan. We tried to turn it backwards to hear another pop, thinking we realigned the timing... but we still had to rotate the crank more to get the cam guide on. So, gently rotating, more pops.. so I got under and could see the gear moving and it looks to me like it would be hard to get the chain to jump lower because the case runs pretty close to the chain at the bottom. I noticed a small 1/4" piece of the plastic guide floating around in there, so I watched and it did get sort of stuck on the side at one time so I'm hoping thats all that we were hearing. We even put the plugs in and rotated slowly to get a lot of resistance on the chain and it didnt pop again.. That was a relief, but I still have my concerns timing could be off..

With that said, is there any way to sort of verify without special tools that the timing is still good? I suppose once we get the new chain on, we can rotate the crank and just carefully feel for any interference between the piston head and valves? I assume it will feel like a hard stop, and not just a little bit of compression/pressure (plugs will be out). I'm not sure if jumping one or two teeth on these engines is enough to cause physical interference, or just bad running.

 

Is there really no diy for a r52/3 timing chain swap onlne? Attempting this tomorrow with my bro!

 

He does not show you how to take it out but he does show the basic arrangement of the chain, guides and tensioner. I found a picture on the web and it looks like once you remove the lower cover plate you have access to all the parts.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Trit...OfMp6wtkBkNdM:

 

Would think you need to get the engine to TDC and once there the marks on the timing chain should match gear/sprocket marks. Might have to turn over a couple of times. I know on a V type engine with dual cams it can take upwards of 8 rotations to get the marks to line up.

 

ok cool I'll look for that. I think there is a bright link that I saw on the chain too.

In theory though.. if I loosen both sprockets, and remove them and the chain up as one unit, then keep it all together and match the same positions of the sprockets and new chain (and key notches), it should just go back in that way too, right? or am I missing something. I suppose rotating it so its all lined up is a nice safety net in case I drop the chain or something.