2011 MCS burps, loses power.
#1
09-22-2017 | 12:10 AM
2011 MCS burps, loses power.
2011 MCS hatch, 80k miles on the clock. He seems to lose power at times, independent of ambient temp, but always at 2500-3500k and when at 80-100% throttle. Very hard to describe, as it's not a misfire, more like a total drop-out of power, and only for a split second. Not dependent on ambient temp. I have not seen my ScanGuage do anything odd, but updating may be slow. No CEL, no codes that I can read with my scanner that worked and gave codes for low fuel pressure and random misfires when my HPFP was going south. I am about 1,000 miles from my aftermarket warranty expiring, so any help would be appreciated. I see no smoke from the exhaust when this happens, and I have always kept up on my maintenance, nothing seems out of the normal. Anyone have anything for me? Thanks in advance.
#2
09-22-2017 | 03:15 AM
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 284
Likes: 36
Suprerknock
Left unchecked, this was how my condition of superknock developed. For me, these random delays or hesitations turned into timing changes and stumbles with boost. I can’t point to the exact fix, but tried a few different things that together yielded 100% fix.
walnut blast
plugs and coils
diverter valve
cleaned PVC
changed chain tensioner to latest version
Noted that I never had a CEL or anything on the scanner except stored superknock code that dealer always dismissed as “ they all have that”.
The drivability difference is night/day. Smooth and stable power all the way to redline. No hesitation, no starting issue either hot or cold and the idle is rock solid.
None of the repairs cost that much, so I’d say go for it!!!
walnut blast
plugs and coils
diverter valve
cleaned PVC
changed chain tensioner to latest version
Noted that I never had a CEL or anything on the scanner except stored superknock code that dealer always dismissed as “ they all have that”.
The drivability difference is night/day. Smooth and stable power all the way to redline. No hesitation, no starting issue either hot or cold and the idle is rock solid.
None of the repairs cost that much, so I’d say go for it!!!
#3
09-23-2017 | 08:59 AM
#5
09-25-2017 | 04:53 PM
how many miles on your plugs? I know that the N18 is much better on building carbon, but have you checked?
On my 08, it would occasionally stumble, but there was a puff of smoke associated. It seems like it would run better after stumble, though.
Sorry I don't have a real answer, just giving you other things to think about.
Have fun,
Mike
On my 08, it would occasionally stumble, but there was a puff of smoke associated. It seems like it would run better after stumble, though.
Sorry I don't have a real answer, just giving you other things to think about.
Have fun,
Mike
#6
09-25-2017 | 09:11 PM
how many miles on your plugs? I know that the N18 is much better on building carbon, but have you checked?
On my 08, it would occasionally stumble, but there was a puff of smoke associated. It seems like it would run better after stumble, though.
Sorry I don't have a real answer, just giving you other things to think about.
Have fun,
Mike
On my 08, it would occasionally stumble, but there was a puff of smoke associated. It seems like it would run better after stumble, though.
Sorry I don't have a real answer, just giving you other things to think about.
Have fun,
Mike
About 5k on my NGK 1422 plugs, gapped at .024". And I have not pulled the intake to inspect the valves for any carbon buildup. Gotta do that soon. Should I replace the intake gaskets or seals then, or can they be re-used? 80k on the engine.
Thanks,
Chris