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Clutch Bleed

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  #1  
Old 10-04-2017, 07:52 AM
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Clutch Bleed

So watching some vids on YouTube trying to figure out the bleed process for the master and slave on the clutch. It seems like a power bleeder is necessary. The master seems straight forward like bleeding a brake but the slave looks like you need to compress is before bleeding it. Can anyone confirm this is the correct process? Thanks
 
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:18 AM
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You dont really need to compress it for just bleeding, you can just bleed as normal - its just like a caliper but you have to open the nipple a lot more (like 3-4 turns) before fluid starts to flow.

FYI! I used a motive bleeder. DONT USE MORE THAN 14psi or you risk blowing seals. Also do not use the motive when the slave is not compressed by the tool or being normally held in place or you'll blow the slave seals..

The reason people take them off, compress and bleed is if there is air in the line after installing a new one. The compression of the piston inside physically fills up the valve cavity so its much easier to get all the air out (less air in there, and when you release it slowly, you draw fluid in). You can also sort of tilt it upwards to direct air towards the nipple and that helps. If you dont think you have any air, and just want a fluid flush, just bleed gently as is.

BTW, you may not need a motive if just doing the clutch (not brakes). Because its so low on the car, I'd think you might be able to gravity bleed?! It was flowing pretty good when I had the slave off and the tube exposed.. Just watch the reservoir up top because you DO NOT want air in there - Its a pita to get out, ask me how I know! The pickup tube for the clutch is not at the bottom - its kind of high on the right side of the reservoir.

Also, people say you can push the pedal in with the stick trick and leave it in all night and that helps get some air bubbles out. You wedge the stick between the pedal and the seat - I used a 2x4 and a towel against the seat cushion so it didnt get a dent. Then you just slide the seat forward.
 

Last edited by Subw00er; 10-04-2017 at 08:24 AM.
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2017, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
You dont really need to compress it for just bleeding, you can just bleed as normal - its just like a caliper but you have to open the nipple a lot more (like 3-4 turns) before fluid starts to flow.

FYI! I used a motive bleeder. DONT USE MORE THAN 14psi or you risk blowing seals. Also do not use the motive when the slave is not compressed by the tool or being normally held in place or you'll blow the slave seals..

The reason people take them off, compress and bleed is if there is air in the line after installing a new one. The compression of the piston inside physically fills up the valve cavity so its much easier to get all the air out (less air in there, and when you release it slowly, you draw fluid in). You can also sort of tilt it upwards to direct air towards the nipple and that helps. If you dont think you have any air, and just want a fluid flush, just bleed gently as is.

BTW, you may not need a motive if just doing the clutch (not brakes). Because its so low on the car, I'd think you might be able to gravity bleed?! It was flowing pretty good when I had the slave off and the tube exposed.. Just watch the reservoir up top because you DO NOT want air in there - Its a pita to get out, ask me how I know! The pickup tube for the clutch is not at the bottom - its kind of high on the right side of the reservoir.

Also, people say you can push the pedal in with the stick trick and leave it in all night and that helps get some air bubbles out. You wedge the stick between the pedal and the seat - I used a 2x4 and a towel against the seat cushion so it didnt get a dent. Then you just slide the seat forward.
Thank you, this is great info!
 
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Old 10-04-2017, 11:41 AM
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On more tidbit. Dont touch the clutch pedal while the slave is compressed or off the car. Seals can go I guess. Only press it when its back in and installed.
 




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