My engine light came on today. I check coolant and it was low.
I topped off the coolant with the Zerek 50/50 yellow coolant but the check engine light is still on. Also, I have already replaced the thermostat housing. The mechanic advised me that my water pump may need replacing after awhile and to check fluids every couple of weeks.
Does the engine light usually turn off or does it have to be reset?????
The fan is not running after turning the car off so i am assuming the engine isn’t too hot.

 

What trouble codes are there?

 

I don’t know how to check the codes without going to the mechanic. (Don’t have the tools).
Looks like I will have to take it in tomorrow.

 

MINI oem coolant color is blue/green. It's bad to mix in wrong coolant. Also, need to check the code.

 

Even if it’s approved coolant???? Zerex 50/50 is phosphate free and is what is listed as okay to use in Mini Coopers.
The coolant that was in the reservoir was blue in color but low ( under the MINIMUM mark).

 

Most auto parts stores have code readers and will be happy to read them for you, in hopes of you buying a part to fix it.

 

Excellent! I will stop by one now. Thank you!

 

Error code P0013, cam shaft sensor bank 1....
it has been idling rough when it hits half a tank of gasoline (93octane).
Wondering what the fix will run.

 

Try this?: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...watch-for.html

 

delete code and see if it comes back...make sure plug is tight and pushed all the way in...

 

Take a diagnostic with a BMW/MINI (official/indy) shop. The error could be not related with your coolant level

As a good practice, never mix coolants. Replace it completely.
Blue coolant meets the requirements for your engine and it will take care with your hoses.

Fan not running after turning the car off is a normal behaviour in ours MINI. It is not a signal for engine being hot or cold.
When the fan is running after turning the car off, there could be a possible issue with your thermostat

 

Many people will tell you that the color of the antifreeze is important. This isn't exactly accurate. It isn't the color so much as what the color indicates. Engine coolant does come in different colors (yellow, blue, green, etc.). The correct color for MINI IS blue (or, more correctly, blueish-green), but just because it is blue doesn't mean it's an appropriate fluid.

On a side note: Some people like to comment: "What's the big deal? Why don't you just spend a few extra bucks and get the branded fluid/ part/screw?" Well, not all of us feel like spending multiple hundreds of dollars for maintenance or repair, when a identical or superior aftermarket fluid/part/screw exists for some fraction of the cost. Oil filters are good example. Purflex makes the filter for MINI. Why not buy their brand for half the price? Notwithstanding the fact that forums like these exist so that we all can gain from some collective experience. So, let's ignore those folks for awhile. I'm sure they'll jump right in to criticize anyway.

Now then , the coolant you're looking for is a phosphate-free, nitrate- and amine-free, low- or no-silicate, hybrid organic acid technology coolant containing a BASF additive called Glysantin, or G-48. These coolants will be blue or blueish-green in color. They will meet ATSM D-3306, and BMW spec GS 49000.

A few brands that fit the bill:
MINI Genuine Antifreeze/Coolant
Fuchs Maintain Fricofin
Pentosin Pentofrost NF
Zerex G-48 (made by Valvoline)

All of these coolants should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water, but are effective from 40 to 70 % dilution.

*PEAK Longlife is a phosphate- and silicate-free coolant that claims to meet the spec. I can't find any evidence that it contains Glysantin, however. They provide a radiator guarantee, but not for your engine, which is what you're trying to protect.

Besides the MINI brand, you can find the Fuchs and Pentosin brands at your local Carquest parts store, if you have one. They're pretty good about carrying European car parts and fluids. I personally like the Zerex brand, which I've been able to find at Walmart. It's usually available at NAPA, too.

It sounds to me like what you used in your car was Zerex G-05. Some BMW owners have used this in their older BMWs, but I would suggest to you that it probably does not meet the spec, even though it is phospate-free. I agree with other posters that you should not mix incompatible fluids. In coolants, this can lead to some undesirable consequences. Since you have mixed these coolants, I would suggest that you set aside some time soon to do a coolant flush and fill with one of the coolants listed above. It's a simple procedure that almost anyone can do. Remember to bleed your system! Here's a DIY video:


You don't say how old your car is, but if it has anywhere from 60k-100k miles, and you are experiencing coolant losses, you probably should start considering a water pump change. This is also a job you can do, but it will require a workspace, tools, and some (but not a lot) of mechanical skill and patience. The original pump body is plastic and prone to leaks, which are identifiable by a whitish residue observed on the subframe underneath the car on the passenger side of the engine. The replacement part will be made of metal with a composite impeller. Graf makes a good one for about $35. If you are planning on have a shop do the work for you, budget about $700. Ask to have the water pipe replaced as well.

Engine codes generally need to be reset. You can do this easily with on OBD II reader, like this one:




Use an app like TorquePro for Android, and you can do it with your phone. As another poster said, sometimes you can reset a code, and if the conditions that generated it are gone, there's no need to investigate further. So for a small investment, you can avoid a lot of trips to the shop. your auto parts store can read the code for you, but they are prohibited from resetting it.

Your error code may be unrelated to your coolant issue, and you can't know until you've reset it, and see if it comes back. If so, you may need to visit your mechanic. Post your results in the forum first, and see if anyone here can help you. Good luck!

 

The last post was brilliant and covers many of the pitfalls that car owners face. I will only add, that when coolants are cross mixed, the heater core eventually gets sludged up. Whatever you choose to use- flush your system complete and be loyal to the product you install. I personally like pink G12 used in many German cars, as the blue pentosin starts so dark, it looks dirty from day 1. Avoid a “ coolant cocktail” and you’ll be miles ahead.