Fused outer ball joint - what a PITA
#1
Fused outer ball joint - what a PITA
I'm in the process of replacing the right axle but ran into an issue with the ball joint. It is suck and won't pop loose. The picture shows it with the bolts installed but of course I removed them.
I've been pounding the heck out of the swing arm with a large hammer, I've been soaking it with PB Blast, but it won't give.
I just placed an order for a replacement ball joint, then I will heat it up to see if the works. Fun stuf.
I've been pounding the heck out of the swing arm with a large hammer, I've been soaking it with PB Blast, but it won't give.
I just placed an order for a replacement ball joint, then I will heat it up to see if the works. Fun stuf.
#2
#3
4th Gear
iTrader: (5)
I used a chisel and a 3lb sledge in the area where the ball joint flange overlaps past the knuckle itself. With a lot of elbow grease I got the two to separate. Godspeed. Outer ball joints suck.
I can tell by the condition of the components that you're also from the Midwest. Looks very similar to the car I just ripped apart.
I can tell by the condition of the components that you're also from the Midwest. Looks very similar to the car I just ripped apart.
#6
do you want/need to replace the ball joint? or just separate it so you can replace the axle? if you just need to separate them, try removing the 2 13mm bolts holding the joint to the steering knuckle and then you can separate them that way. I put antiseize between the ball joint and the knuckle so that they come apart easily when I need them to.
If you need to separate the control arm from the ball joint, a small sledge and a pickle fork are what you need.
If you need to separate the control arm from the ball joint, a small sledge and a pickle fork are what you need.
#7
Just had to remove the steering knuckle on my r53. Fortunately I got it out after a couple solid knocks with a 5 lb hammer. Do you have a ball joint puller/separator? I've had good luck with one of those.
Good idea to just order a new one and destroy... Not worth the headache of trying to keep it. Good luck with the torch!
Good idea to just order a new one and destroy... Not worth the headache of trying to keep it. Good luck with the torch!
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#8
Torch it, then smack the sh** out of it with the biggest hammer you have. Sorry man, fused suspension sucks. This seems like MegaDan's realm of expertise actually, I'd PM him, maybe he has some tips!
And +1 on CSP's advice, one of makes for a quick-n-painless removal of the ball joint from the control arm. You can even reuse the joint (after sanding all the crud off) if it isn't leaking and seems to be moving fine!
Edit: oh wow, I should really read the whole thread before posting....
And +1 on CSP's advice, one of makes for a quick-n-painless removal of the ball joint from the control arm. You can even reuse the joint (after sanding all the crud off) if it isn't leaking and seems to be moving fine!
Edit: oh wow, I should really read the whole thread before posting....
#9
#10
Quick update; as mentioned I realized I really don't need to pop out the ball joint to remove the axle so I didn't . I removed the axle just fine and replaced it with a new one.
I started driving and the new axle is making a knocking sounds. I think it's bad. I put the car back on the lift and confirmed nothing is loose. When you roll the body of the car you can feel the axle popping. I'm going back to the shop where I bought the axle.
I started driving and the new axle is making a knocking sounds. I think it's bad. I put the car back on the lift and confirmed nothing is loose. When you roll the body of the car you can feel the axle popping. I'm going back to the shop where I bought the axle.
#11
That stinks. I was going to say like above" Torch it, then smack the blank out of it with the biggest hammer you have" I would replace it while you are there as if you start getting a clunk noise it might be the ball joint gong bad. Then when you put the new one in anti-seize it with some of that grease. Thats what i did, so if I ever replace it again.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-joints.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172