So I've done a lot of searching and I cannot find the answer. Just had my clutch replaced (JMTC Stage 3). We replaced everything except the clutch master because there was an issue with shipping and I wont have it until next week. Clutch feels great but its slipping and I fear the master is the cause. My question is, how I do I bleed just the master when I replace it next week? My thoughts are leading me to believe that you don't bleed the master itself, you just bleed it though bleeding the slave. Is this correct? Cannot find anything definitive about master, only the slave.

Thanks,

 

Another member had an issue with the JMTC clutch recently... I believe his issue turned out to be JM sent him an N14 clutch for an N18 engine.

My first questions is: are you sure you received the correct parts?

As for bleeding the clutch, you will want to bleed it all the way down to the slave cylinder to make sure all the air is out.

 

id give it a few weeks/2500 miles or so to "break in", the kevlar will take a while. if the slave was bled correctly and you pull the master clutch cyl out you shouldnt "lose" any fluid thats already from that line down to the slave, you will have to use the bleeder screw on the slave but i wouldnt pull the slave and block it off and all that again

and tbf....jmtc sent me the wrong clutch almost a year ago...just figured it out recently

 

I would have no idea if they sent me the wrong clutch as it is installed already. Until I get the master cylinder replaced, I don’t think I would entertain the idea of removing the clutch as on my countrymen it’s a 10 hour job LOL

 

it took me 2.5 hours to pull it this last time, youll get faster

 

if I was doing the work id take it off this weekend but I need a shop and just shelled out 1k to have it installed. I’ll ride it out for now, hopefully have the master installed next week and go from there. Good call I’m not removing the slave that should save some time! Pedal just feels overly soft. It has full travel but as I release it grabs about half way well but it doesn’t get anymore “aggressive”. I can dump it without rev matching and it just feels soft and smooth. Not sure if it’s just built properly to shift nice or if i have a problem. It’s definitely softer than the stock unit and dmf we removed with 106k on it

 

i wouldnt worry about having an n14 clutch... the biggest give away was that the clutch arm contacted the pressure plate. first time it was installed (by dealer) it was hardly noticeable they put a small stop under the pedal and problem "solved" it just never seemed to hold any power. after I ripped it out the first time and replaced disc, master cyl, slave, bushing, pin, arm, guide, bearing, etc i didnt even take it off the jack stands to make sure it was all good and first stop used under pedal wasnt even close anymore. any stop big enough to keep arm away from pressure plate was to big to engage clutch switch and car wouldnt start.

 

Just wanted to update my experience here and further back my JMTC Stage 3 clutch, so far. Had the master cylinder replaced 2 days ago, bled and driven for about 100 stop and go miles (on top of the 700 I had before the master was changed). I can happily report that the clutch is now holding 100%, even in MapB on stage 2. I'm not thrashing it as Arric from JMTC told me I should really put close to 2000 miles on it before I can really thrash but it does now hold full throttle blasts in any gear. I can feel it grabbing more each time I take off from a stop so I can only imagine the grip will continue to grow through the next 1000 miles. I will stress just as JMTC does about changing the master when you change the clutch. Before the swap, I was blowing through any gear even in MapA and after swap with only 100 additional miles its holding more than enough for my current needs.

 

Excellent! Thanks for stopping by to give an update.

 

The hydraulics shouldn't have anything to do with the clutch holding power, they are only used to disengage the clutch, spring pressure and friction material determine hold power. I wonder if you just didn't give it long enough to break in. We had a customer we installed a JMTC clutch for (kevlar), and it felt really spongy at first, almost too pliant, but as he got miles on it and started to bed it in the pedal got a bit firmer, the engagement point became more pronounced, and a few weeks later he ran it at a local time attack/ touge shootout.

 

I can definitely agree with Kevlar needing to bed in for a good time (claimed 2000 miles). The difference in pedal feel before and after the master install was night and day. Clutch was still slipping same way right after install but within 100 miles (700 already on old master) the holding power increased exponentially. The claim for changing the master is that after you depress the clutch, if the valve is blocked/malfunctioning, not all fluid will return to master and the clutch will remain partially engaged, not giving full clamp force and ruining your TO bearing prematurely because it is always partially engaged. All I'm trying to say is after troubleshooting the slip, replacing the master made a dramatic difference. It's relatively cheap insurance when an install costs $1000+ that it was installed correctly and the mechanic installing didn't slather the clutch in grease during the process. Also in my case, I'm moving 700 miles away from NJ to NC and don't have 2000 miles to wait for my kevlar to bed to deem the install fudged up or not.