Hi there! I just bought a r56 2007 n14 with 130k miles on it. It will be my daily driver for commuting 80 miles a day. The car had a thermostat housing replaced and also a timming chain service done and engine mount support too. Btw i'm having a really hard time to read the oil level , i thought that was impossible a worse dipstick than my nissan 350z but bmw did a really good job on it lol!

i check all fluids level every morning on all my cars despite of reliability. Two days after i got the car i got a half check engine light , then i managed to install inpa and got a 2885 code among cylinder 3 misfire( probably a carbon build up) . So my questions are:

what are the other things to keep an eye on it?

What shops or mechanics do you guys recommend on SoCal on a affordable price(i'm international student lol).

ps : i'm planning to buy a schwaben scan tool to keep on the car.

thank you!

 

First of all I would recommend you invest in a CravenSpeed dipstick. Expensive, but IMO worth every penny. If you still have the original water pump I would recommend replacing it with the newer version that's made of metal vs plastic. While you're doing the WP replace the belt and pulley if needed. Replace the turbo oil lines with the full kit from Detroit Tuned and replace the "O" ring gaskets in the oil filter housing while you're in the area. New plugs wouldn't hurt either along with the walnut blasting you suggested. I did all these things to my '07 MCS at 125K miles. It was running like a top when I traded it in.

Oh yeah... Welcome to the forum. I'm sure some current R56 owners will chime in with other recommendations.

 

Thank you so much for replying! Btw the 2885 boost deviation plausibility code started after my friend changed the thermostat house for me. Is there any way to check the turbo boost psi on onboard computer or on InPA? The half check engine light comes back and forth when i hit the gas.

 

You probably have a loose duct/hose associated with the turbo or intercooler. Could have been knocked loose or incorrectly installed during the T-stat install. I had a CEL and reduced power on my F56 after they replaced my engine and that was found to be the culprit. That's just a WAG, but since the problem started immediately after T-stat install that's what I'd look at first.

 

+1 for vetsvette's recommendation.

also see the gen2 FAQ: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nce-items.html

 

Thank you so much!

 

There is a vacuum line that is routed between the intake manifold (beneath it....can be seen from under the car), and the turbo actuator. It is very easy to forget to re-attach the turbo end. Also, at 130k it could be brittle and cracked....replacing the thermostat could have opened up a hole it it. They're MINI only, and about $65. If you can't fix the 2885 quickly, be sure and do a search on NAM....there are a couple good, but long, threads. Also, check out
http://jmtcperformance.com/publicati...ibility-error/

 

We recommend everyone have a Scangauge as you can use it to monitor coolant temp, and you can also use it to read boost. It also has many other gauges and reads codes.

As for your issue there is many things that can cause that fault from a simple vacuum leak to a bad turbo so diagnosis is important rather than just trying to buy parts as that can get expensive fast.
I would first check the vacuum lines as they cross the thermostat and also swell as they get old and can be knocked loose easily.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/turboc...18-engine.html

 

Hi there! I solved the 2885 code. It was my diverter valve. I replaced to the oem. Now i got a carfax from my car and it shows that my timming chain was replaced at 71.000 miles in 2010. My car has 132.000 miles now. Do i have to replace it again?
Thank you!

 

Shouldn't. Its not the chain that was the problem on the N14...it was the chain guides. Typically there is audible evidence that they need done IIRC.

 

We have had our 2007 Mini Cooper S since 75k miles (now at 100k) and about three years of service. My wife drives it everyday about 80 miles round trip. I can't say its been the most reliable car -- and has put a sizeable hole in my wallet (even with me doing most the work). But certainly fun to drive and zippy when operating right.

Above all else, I'd recommend watching the oil level -- which is sounds like you're already in a good rhythm with checking. These engines seem to like consuming oil.

Best luck

 

If the car was run with very low oil capacity, I could see the timing chain having premature wear. Needless to say, there is a reason why mini had a class action lawsuit for the timing chain design.

FWIW -- We replaced ours at ~80k. Inspection at 100k, everything still looked in good shape.