Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Mechanical issues with the Cooper and Cooper S.

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  #1  
Old 06-19-2002 | 11:44 AM
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Sfiveten
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From: Birmingham, AL
Hi everyone.
Well.... It's not a topic we like to see but I think it will be useful.
We have noticed that there are more Mechanical issues surfacing in the forums area with regard to the MINI.
In an effort to bring these issues together, we would like you to post a "brief"
explanation of the problem with a note as to whether the problem has been fixed.

We think this will help with identifying isolated problems vs. recurring (problems that BMW/MINI should take note of) problems. Please feel free to post even the smallest of problems.

Please note: We would like to keep this thread free of "forum chat". Please do not respond to posts with such. This thread is only for the use of posting problems with the MINI. If you would like to discuss the problems posted in this thread.... feel free to either send an Private Message to the member you would like to respond to or start a new topic.
Any other posts will be deleted.

Thanks,
SW

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  #2  
Old 06-19-2002 | 01:57 PM
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CMINIGO
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From: Moorpark, California
I wanted to let people know about something strange I discovered last night and how I came to "fix" it. I had never used the remote key to pop the boot (trunk) before, so I wanted to see if it worked. The manual says hold down the unlock button for five seconds and it will pop open just a bit. I held it down for longer than that until I heard 2 clicks and released the button. I think it would have kept clicking if I didn't release the button. Anyway, when I went to close the boot it wouldn't! The door would go down but it would not latch at all and just popped back up. This scared me because I figured I broke it and would have to take it back to the dealer to be fixed. Then I remembered the double click I heard. So with the boot open I held down the unlock key button down again until it clicked once and quickly released it. THEN I was able to close the boot. I don't know if this happens to all MINIs or just mine, but I will never try to open the boot by remote again- too much hassle! :???:
 
  #3  
Old 06-26-2002 | 04:46 PM
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julianvh
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From: USA
A problem that I have with my cooper S is an anoying noise on the back of the car, I try everythin to get rid of it, but I dont know were is the sound.
It probably be a plastic hiting something but I do not know what it is.
Also I notice the leveler system on the front seats, doesnt work properly somethimes but nothing to worry yet.

Edit/add: (edited by Sfiveten)
Common check/fix....
1. (posted by MINI_S_All_BLACK)
Check the rear cover (which hides what you may have behind the back seats. When I drove one at the dealer I heard the same thing, we stoped put it in right and we were off and that fixed it.
2. (posted by MINI-Madness)
Check that the boot latch is properly lubricated. Try dabbing a little oil on the latch. This should help.
3. (posted by Damon)
I found an easy fix. wrap a small piece of clear packing tape around the u-shaped latch on the door. All noise is gone. Dealer said there in so permanent fix for the latch problem yet.

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  #4  
Old 06-29-2002 | 03:02 AM
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Sfiveten
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From: Birmingham, AL
Posted by MiniMe762 in another thread. Copied to this one....


"This has been discussed on other boards, but I thought I would post it here to let you all know. Today while motoring in 5th gear, I started to slow as I neared an intersection. Clutch in...shift to 4th. No 4th! No 3rd, 2nd, 1st, or Neutral either. As MINI limped to the side of the road, I felt shock kick in. My MINI is sick!

So I call Roadside Assistance. When the tow truck arrives, he mentions to me that this is the second MINI he's towed with this problem! Apparently, there is a weak linkage connection somewhere in the gearbox. This has been a recurring problem, and BMW is coming out with a replacement part.


Jason"

Edit/add....
Common...... check/fix:
(Posted by acetonic) " It's a known problem that has been solved by MINI. The linkage can simply pop loose. the MINI dealer can install the replacement part. Newer MINI's already have it fixed."


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  #5  
Old 06-29-2002 | 03:11 AM
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Sfiveten
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From: Birmingham, AL
Please NOTE. If you have a fix to any post in this thread feel free to post it. Please keep it short As I will be adding it as a fix in the appropiate post. (See above)
Again this thread is not for discussion..... Please only post if you have a problem with your MINI or have a solution for a problem.
Thanks
SW


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  #6  
Old 07-02-2002 | 02:34 PM
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Dr_cooper_S
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From: Italy
3 :???: :???: miles and it leaks...
A drop of motor Oil, every now and then, from a bad assembled and damaged O-ring of the oil radiator.
Diagnosis: Immediate @ dealer's site
Therapy: One week of abstinence...

Incomplete abstinence to be honest, actually I got onewaero thing that looks nasty, but fails to make my foot shiver on the gas... A ten minutes work, requires long time waiting for the spare availability: Munich...
Planning a round concorde trip...
 
  #7  
Old 07-02-2002 | 03:48 PM
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sirron
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From: San Diego
My boot fails to close sometimes unless I give it a good thump on the locking mechanism, which cures it for a while. I've tried lubricating the latch to no avail, so I'm waiting until my first service for the dealer to check it out. The only trouble is it doesn't do it every time. Ron
 
  #8  
Old 07-05-2002 | 12:13 PM
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ministephen
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Ok hope this is just a glitch... havnet heard from my service fellow yet...had not driven the car in two days and it had been hot ... like 100 degrees... and when I got in to drive away the battery sensor light in the speedo gauge flashed on & off for a few mins. I parked and went to the bank and nothing happened on the second start.

Manual indicates stop car immediatley... any one have any similar experience?

S
 
  #9  
Old 07-08-2002 | 11:43 PM
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SailAZ
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From: home
I had the same problem with the remote opener for the rear hatch. It would not lock when shut until I fiddled with the key button several times. The dealer has ordered a new latch for me.

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  #10  
Old 07-11-2002 | 01:33 PM
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jtayman
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Is it possible that by holding the key button down you are inadvertently relocking the door after the rear hatch has unlatched causing the door to slam into a pre locked latch.I know that remote locking systems are capable of doing some pretty strange things. I will try this on my own car and get back to you with the results.
 
  #11  
Old 07-11-2002 | 08:11 PM
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dgedalecia
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From: wooster, ohio
Had this "flashing battery light" problem last week, when it was really hot here in Ohio. MINI has less than 300 miles on it. Thought I wasn't driving it enough. This week, cooler weather. No flashing light. Been over a week. Maybe just a glitch? In less automated cars this sometimes occurs if battery goes down a bit, and once one drives some, the light goes off. Was going to ask dealer about it, but now it has stopped. Any advice will be appreciated. :smile:
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2002 | 09:56 PM
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blu02
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From: South Florida
I have the same problem with my Mini. When I explained the issue to my dealer, he misunderstood, and told me that the trunk didn't automatically close. This is an issue we need to hear back from Mini on.
 
  #13  
Old 07-12-2002 | 10:45 PM
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SailAZ
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From: home
The Dealer installed a new latch for my rear hatch today and it seems to operate OK now. Before when I would press and hold the key button the latch would click several times and stick with the catch retracted and not latch when the hatch was closed. Now when I press and hold the button it only clicks once and the hatch unlatches and relatches when closed. The guys at Scottsdale MINI are great and I realy appreciate their service.
 
  #14  
Old 07-14-2002 | 11:25 PM
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Nolan
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The back hatches on early minis are defective.....my"S" started rattling after 500 miles...they had to take the hatch apart, remove the insulation, fix the latch, reinstall the insulation...there were three other minis there for the same fix...eliminated the rattle.....I was asked if anything else I needed done....I answered it would be nice if they could add another 100 hp, laugh...since sold it since I guess i was expecting to much out of the performance, but basically seemed like a well built car, except for the minor hatch problem.
 
  #15  
Old 07-17-2002 | 05:50 PM
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>>Had this "flashing battery light" problem last week, when it was really hot here in Ohio. MINI has less than 300 miles on it. Thought I wasn't driving it enough. This week, cooler weather. No flashing light. Been over a week. Maybe just a glitch? In less automated cars this sometimes occurs if battery goes down a bit, and once one drives some, the light goes off. Was going to ask dealer about it, but now it has stopped. Any advice will be appreciated. :smile:

I had this battery light problem too, and it also went away. The battery light would flicker on and off when first starting the car and it would idle roughly. This seems to have healed itself. I also have LoJack and thought maybe it's drain on the battery could be involved.

Another problem that seems to have healed itself for now is that when I have the A/C on high and come to a stop in idle (especially in bumper to bumper traffic) my Cooper has stalled out a couple times, and it seems to nearly stall when coming down to idle often in this scenario. This only happened when it was really hot here lately (over 100 degrees). Otherwise it is fine when the A/C is on in mild weather.
 
  #16  
Old 07-17-2002 | 05:59 PM
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Tollag
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From: Maine
The stalling is due to the drain from the Freon compressor. It healed itself as the engine started wearing in, and gaining a few extra Hp here and there. When my Astro was new, it would actually shut off when I turned the wheel at idle. All fixe-d up now :smile:
 
  #17  
Old 07-18-2002 | 09:02 AM
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carrington
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From: Maine - USA
Same problem with the boot not shutting. Brought it to Mini of Peabody yesterday and they adjusted the lower part of the latch, by the bumper, out a bit. It closes easily now - had been very difficult, especially with the windows closed.
 
  #18  
Old 07-22-2002 | 05:36 PM
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andrew
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From: Annapolis, Maryland
Replacement Software will be available in September to prevent this problem with the fuel cut-off programming.Spoke with MINI and they will announce to dealers. I have similar problem when really hot, in excess of 90 degrees.......
 
  #19  
Old 08-01-2002 | 01:02 AM
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Dr_cooper_S
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From: Italy
Got my passenger seat back stuck in upright position, any solution?!
Thanks :evil: :evil:
 
  #20  
Old 08-01-2002 | 04:51 AM
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BoyRacer
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From: Cambridge, Engalnd
I managed to brake down on the worst motorway in England, the M25. An hour later, a man came along and fixed the gear change lever, the reason Mini UK has recalled all minis!!!! I wasn't happy, as this was the second time I had broken down. The first time was due to electrical fault :evil: :???:
 
  #21  
Old 08-03-2002 | 10:41 PM
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virafp
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From: Los Angeles
>>I had the same exact problem on my S on day 4. Dealer said they will have to order a new lock mechanism to fix the problem.
 
  #22  
Old 08-07-2002 | 02:05 PM
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Wampum
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From: Canada
The exact same thing happened to me this weekend. I had to have it towed. Not what I was hoping for with my new car. I'm a bit dissapointed, although it was fixed within a few hours, no appologies, no compensation from the dealer. I remember when a friend had a recall on her new Beetle, VW gave her $100 just for her trouble. I'm going to write MINI to complain.


 
  #23  
Old 08-07-2002 | 02:38 PM
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MultiScaleRacer
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From: Laguna Hills, CA
Less than 600 miles and I have 3 problems...

1) Sun Roof rattles when shut, as soon as I start to open it the rattle disappears.

2) Upper windscreen seal is loose and started coming off. I was able to push back into place.

3) After sitting in parking lot at work all day, with sun roof partially opened, I start driving home. I am keeping the revs below 4500 and the next thing I know my tach is showing an extra 1000 rpm. It show idle at 1800 and only goes down to 1000 when engine is shut off. I dove my truck to work with the intent of taking my MINI to the dealer in the afternoon. When I started my MINI, the tach was working fine.

Car is at the dealer now, having all 3 problems looked at...
 
  #24  
Old 08-11-2002 | 06:50 AM
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Sportech
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From: Charlotte, NC
I also had a rear hatch rattle. I adjusted the striker (requires an allen wrench) and cured the problem. It did sound like a plastic to plastic noise._

Yellow with black roof S
 
  #25  
Old 08-16-2002 | 01:12 PM
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Mardav
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That's what you have warranty for. The dealer doesn't "owe" you anything other than good service. :evil:
 



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