Help with first time DIY oil change
#1
Help with first time DIY oil change
I'm at 5,500 miles on my new MCSC and want to do an oil change. I plan on using Redline 5w30. Should I also do the filter? And do I need to use a jack or can I just squeeze under to get to the plug? Also, I thought I saw in the manual that the convert has a 4.5 liter capacity? Why would the convert be different than an MCS?
Thanks in advance for the help,
Mike
Thanks in advance for the help,
Mike
#2
Allways change the filter. It's cheap insurance and much cheaper than the oil. I think with the true synthetic oil, the filter should be changed more than the oil. 5,500 miles is overkill for a synthetic oil change. I had a hard time believing the oil will last but true synthetic does. I change out my oil every 10K and the filter every 5K and check the level every 1K or before I race.
You will need to lift the car. MINI's are LOW to the ground. Also the filter cartrige was a bugger to get it reinstalled. I installed the cartrige on the block boss first then spun on the canister cover. It was the only way to get the threads to catch. Be careful you get the threads right. You don't want to mess them up or your in big trouble. Just be patient and do it right. And use the right tools. It's a snap when you get used to it. There is plenty of good how-to threads on this website to help you. Check the Beneath The Bonnet section
Good Luck.
You will need to lift the car. MINI's are LOW to the ground. Also the filter cartrige was a bugger to get it reinstalled. I installed the cartrige on the block boss first then spun on the canister cover. It was the only way to get the threads to catch. Be careful you get the threads right. You don't want to mess them up or your in big trouble. Just be patient and do it right. And use the right tools. It's a snap when you get used to it. There is plenty of good how-to threads on this website to help you. Check the Beneath The Bonnet section
Good Luck.
#5
#6
Originally Posted by MINIAC
If you do that, the oil in the housing will drain thru the motor and not all over everything else, i.e. suspenison, floor, ect.
Like the other posts say "ramps, warm motor" and you are home free.
Hope this helps...
#7
Originally Posted by kazlot
The only thing not mentioned is to loosen the filter about a quarter turn after you take out the drain plug.
If you do that, the oil in the housing will drain thru the motor and not all over everything else, i.e. suspenison, floor, ect.
Like the other posts say "ramps, warm motor" and you are home free.
Hope this helps...
If you do that, the oil in the housing will drain thru the motor and not all over everything else, i.e. suspenison, floor, ect.
Like the other posts say "ramps, warm motor" and you are home free.
Hope this helps...
Trending Topics
#9
Rhino ramps
Make sure you have the correct 36mm tool to crack the oil filter can.
Make sure you take the oil filler cap off whilst you drain - it does speed things up.
Use gloves to remove the hot filter can, you'll need them!
Put some old towel rags under the filter can before you crack it, just to catch any drops of oil.
I agree that a warm can makes for easy threading, and that's a real bonus.
Use a funnel to pour in the new oil, it means you don't mess up the engine bay!
Chris.
Make sure you have the correct 36mm tool to crack the oil filter can.
Make sure you take the oil filler cap off whilst you drain - it does speed things up.
Use gloves to remove the hot filter can, you'll need them!
Put some old towel rags under the filter can before you crack it, just to catch any drops of oil.
I agree that a warm can makes for easy threading, and that's a real bonus.
Use a funnel to pour in the new oil, it means you don't mess up the engine bay!
Chris.
#10
#11
2)Turn key to position 1
3)Continue to hold (TB), the number 15A will show to the teft of the milage
4)Release (TB) for 3 sec and then hold (TB) again
5)In about 5-8 sec RST will show in the left corner
6)Release and then press again "15000" will show, press and release
7)Car is now reset to the 15,000 service
#12
Thanks for your generous reply ABS.
I don't need the information today because by the time I purchased the correct oil (for me 0-40 Mobil 1) and got my work space ready and my tools gathered it was time to start the barbeque. Next weekend will be it for me.
I did come across a thread tonight where some poor newbie asked the same question as Lil Ma and was toasted for not using the search tool. After a month he still has only one post . . . .
Well, next weekend I'll benefit from your information. Thanks!
I don't need the information today because by the time I purchased the correct oil (for me 0-40 Mobil 1) and got my work space ready and my tools gathered it was time to start the barbeque. Next weekend will be it for me.
I did come across a thread tonight where some poor newbie asked the same question as Lil Ma and was toasted for not using the search tool. After a month he still has only one post . . . .
Well, next weekend I'll benefit from your information. Thanks!
#13
Why would you want to change your oil on your own if you have the 36k maintenance from MINI?
Why does anyone think that they know better when to change oil than manufacturer that did extensive research on this before they let the car roll off the production line.
If MINI wants to do oil changes on my car every 15k miles because they have calculated that it's safe do to so, than let them do it. They will use correct oil and filter that will allow the car to run safely for another 15k miles. If they screw something up, you're clean and covered. I will probably change oil myself once the maintenance plan is up, but will still continue to follow the interval shown by the OBC. I will also do UOA to make sure that the engine is safe with this type of interval.
Why does anyone think that they know better when to change oil than manufacturer that did extensive research on this before they let the car roll off the production line.
If MINI wants to do oil changes on my car every 15k miles because they have calculated that it's safe do to so, than let them do it. They will use correct oil and filter that will allow the car to run safely for another 15k miles. If they screw something up, you're clean and covered. I will probably change oil myself once the maintenance plan is up, but will still continue to follow the interval shown by the OBC. I will also do UOA to make sure that the engine is safe with this type of interval.
#14
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Washington. No, the other one.
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Oil changes are the cheapest insurance you can buy for your engine. Oil is your motors lifeblood and changing more often than the mandated interval won't hurt anything, and certainly will probably help in the long run. The dealer has no problem with you changing oil once or twice in between mandated changes (use OEM filter and correct oil). It's a thirty minute job and well worth the effort. IMO.
#15
I will want to invite all of you that think frequent oil changes are good, to read the following article:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.
Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources
#16
here is another good link about "cheap insurance"
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Oi...ge%20Intervals
but hey, it's your money. I wouldn't change oil on regular Cooper more often than the manual and OBC suggests, on Cooper S, I would probably do it every 10k, depending on the driving characteristics.
And of course Dealer has no problem with you doing a "quick" change in between the interval, after all he sells you the parts for the oil change
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Oi...ge%20Intervals
but hey, it's your money. I wouldn't change oil on regular Cooper more often than the manual and OBC suggests, on Cooper S, I would probably do it every 10k, depending on the driving characteristics.
And of course Dealer has no problem with you doing a "quick" change in between the interval, after all he sells you the parts for the oil change
#17
Oil change intervals
[quote=rallymaniac;2197158]Why would you want to change your oil on your own if you have the 36k maintenance from MINI?
Because the closest damn dealer is an hour and a quarter away in Philadelphia = four hours to get the oil changed counting travel time!
Sorry, but having been a mechanic my whole life, I'll continue with shorter intervals. Maybe not every 3k, but certainly less than 15k. My wife's '08 Clubman S went through about 1 1/2 Qts before it told us to bring it in for a change at about 18k plus . Glad I checked it. She commutes 100 miles daily, and drives hard. The oil on the dipstick was definitely real dirty.
It also need the timing belt tensioner work.
Because the closest damn dealer is an hour and a quarter away in Philadelphia = four hours to get the oil changed counting travel time!
Sorry, but having been a mechanic my whole life, I'll continue with shorter intervals. Maybe not every 3k, but certainly less than 15k. My wife's '08 Clubman S went through about 1 1/2 Qts before it told us to bring it in for a change at about 18k plus . Glad I checked it. She commutes 100 miles daily, and drives hard. The oil on the dipstick was definitely real dirty.
It also need the timing belt tensioner work.
#18
[quote=mspace;2859704]
I agree that waiting 15K to change oil is nuts but if you use a good quality syn. oil you can go 8-10K miles with out worries. I use Redline 5w30 and change every 7.5K miles which, I feel is on the conservative side. I'd do one and have dealer do the other using the oil I provided. Don't know of anything you can do to the tensioner other than to replace it... should be under warranty if under 36K miles.
Why would you want to change your oil on your own if you have the 36k maintenance from MINI?
Because the closest damn dealer is an hour and a quarter away in Philadelphia = four hours to get the oil changed counting travel time!
Sorry, but having been a mechanic my whole life, I'll continue with shorter intervals. Maybe not every 3k, but certainly less than 15k. My wife's '08 Clubman S went through about 1 1/2 Qts before it told us to bring it in for a change at about 18k plus . Glad I checked it. She commutes 100 miles daily, and drives hard. The oil on the dipstick was definitely real dirty.
It also need the timing belt tensioner work.
Because the closest damn dealer is an hour and a quarter away in Philadelphia = four hours to get the oil changed counting travel time!
Sorry, but having been a mechanic my whole life, I'll continue with shorter intervals. Maybe not every 3k, but certainly less than 15k. My wife's '08 Clubman S went through about 1 1/2 Qts before it told us to bring it in for a change at about 18k plus . Glad I checked it. She commutes 100 miles daily, and drives hard. The oil on the dipstick was definitely real dirty.
It also need the timing belt tensioner work.
#19
Yeah, about 7500 sounds good. I have decided to have my local BMW shop that also works on MINIs do this change when it's due, and watch them so I'm familar the next time. I was real surprised when I opened the filter box and found a cartridge! Is this a step backwards, or what?
Here's a photo of my garage this afternoon. It's amazing how BIG the new MINI is compared to the old ones. That's my 1275 Austin Cooper S in back.
Here's a photo of my garage this afternoon. It's amazing how BIG the new MINI is compared to the old ones. That's my 1275 Austin Cooper S in back.
#21
#22
I drive less than 5,000 miles a years...
No way, Im gonna wait 2 years plus to change the oil. Especially when you factor in, that the majority of my driving is short, stop and go trips...
I change my oil and filter once a year.
I've always been a "oil is cheap insurance guy," and yet to have a car die due to anything oil related...
Not to mention...
I change my oil, cause I enjoy it!
For the record: I use OEM filter and Redline 5w30, and Rhino Ramps to rasie er up. Very easy car for oil changes.
No way, Im gonna wait 2 years plus to change the oil. Especially when you factor in, that the majority of my driving is short, stop and go trips...
I change my oil and filter once a year.
I've always been a "oil is cheap insurance guy," and yet to have a car die due to anything oil related...
Not to mention...
I change my oil, cause I enjoy it!
For the record: I use OEM filter and Redline 5w30, and Rhino Ramps to rasie er up. Very easy car for oil changes.
#23
I drive less than 5,000 miles a years...
No way, Im gonna wait 2 years plus to change the oil. Especially when you factor in, that the majority of my driving is short, stop and go trips...
I change my oil and filter once a year.
I've always been a "oil is cheap insurance guy," and yet to have a car die due to anything oil related...
Not to mention...
I change my oil, cause I enjoy it!
For the record: I use OEM filter and Redline 5w30, and Rhino Ramps to rasie er up. Very easy car for oil changes.
No way, Im gonna wait 2 years plus to change the oil. Especially when you factor in, that the majority of my driving is short, stop and go trips...
I change my oil and filter once a year.
I've always been a "oil is cheap insurance guy," and yet to have a car die due to anything oil related...
Not to mention...
I change my oil, cause I enjoy it!
For the record: I use OEM filter and Redline 5w30, and Rhino Ramps to rasie er up. Very easy car for oil changes.
#24
Is this "section" ("Beneath the Bonnet") still here please? Also, are there kits to purchase which include filter, washer/gasket and an appropriate-sized socket? I'm not sure if I need the 27mm or 36mm...though I believe an `03 MINI would need the 36mm?
I don't need a drain pan - though I suppose I could use another one if it comes as a part of a kit...
Thanks in advance,
g.......................
I don't need a drain pan - though I suppose I could use another one if it comes as a part of a kit...
Thanks in advance,
g.......................
Last edited by grc123; 09-06-2009 at 02:02 PM.