Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Bleeding Clutch MASTER Cylinder

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  #26  
Old 04-12-2018 | 07:13 PM
Whine not Walnuts's Avatar
Whine not Walnuts
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Depress the piston during bleeding, once done remove the block and use your hand to pump the clutch pedal. It should should start to get stiffer so then use your foot.
 
  #27  
Old 04-12-2018 | 07:14 PM
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From: soggy pnw
I think he is referring to this.



When I bled mine, I removed the slave from the mount. I use a home made device to compress the piston a little so it won't pop out. I tilt the cylinder downward so the bleeding nipple is at the highest point to allow the air in the cylinder to rise to it. I think that is key. You can see in the photo the high point in of the cylinder can trap air in the normal mounted position.
 
  #28  
Old 04-12-2018 | 07:18 PM
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  #29  
Old 04-12-2018 | 08:05 PM
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ok guess Ill try just pumping it tomorrow first if not Ill bleed with the pressure bleeding for the 10th time and try again
 
  #30  
Old 04-13-2018 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Whine not Walnuts
Depress the piston during bleeding, once done remove the block and use your hand to pump the clutch pedal. It should should start to get stiffer so then use your foot.

I know that I need to bleed the system with the piston compressed, do I take the pressure bleeder of and put the reseviour cap on the brake reseviour before or after I take either the block of wood or clamp off? also do I pump the clutch pedal when I am done if it still goes to the floor with the reseviour cap on or off.
Thanks for the help - SO CLOSE!
 
  #31  
Old 04-13-2018 | 06:48 AM
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Whine not Walnuts
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For me, I would block the piston. Use no power bleeder but rather attach a clear hose to the bleed screw and loosen it. Do not touch the peddle. Let fluid run out, when you have about an ounce and if there are no bubbles retighten. Go inside and pump the peddle, if soft or no peddle at all, use you hand to pull up and push down the peddle. I cannot remember how many times I had to pump mine but it was well over 50 times.
 
  #32  
Old 04-13-2018 | 06:54 AM
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ok thanks and when you pumped was the cap to the resevior off, I would assume that way air can make its way out, when I do pump the clutch it does sound like there is air so Ill give it a try when I get home
 
  #33  
Old 04-13-2018 | 07:21 AM
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Cap was loose but not off
 
  #34  
Old 04-13-2018 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Whine not Walnuts
For me, I would block the piston. Use no power bleeder but rather attach a clear hose to the bleed screw and loosen it. Do not touch the peddle. Let fluid run out, when you have about an ounce and if there are no bubbles retighten. Go inside and pump the peddle, if soft or no peddle at all, use you hand to pull up and push down the peddle. I cannot remember how many times I had to pump mine but it was well over 50 times.
Before I do this do I want to have the piston compressed then pump the pedal or when I put it back on the clutch lever,

I may cut a piece of wood cause I am getting sick of trying to get the jig I made up on every time. GOOD IDEA
 
  #35  
Old 04-13-2018 | 02:32 PM
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You do nothing with the peddle until after you have bleed.
 
  #36  
Old 04-13-2018 | 05:16 PM
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after over 30minutes of pumping no luck still just goes to the floor, I dont know what I am doing wrong
 
  #37  
Old 04-20-2018 | 05:43 PM
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Ok so my dad and I worked on it tonight and it is half way working.
Let me explain what is now happening

With it all back together the clutch only gets stiff and moves the slave at the end and the first 6 inches does not have pressure, when I put the power bleeder back on at 14psi the clutch then feels completely normal, but when removed it goes back to only working at the end.
The other thing that I noticed that I did different was not touch the rubber shroud on the slave cylindar and when I did I could here air escape, does this do something or is the slave broken, cause this time I did my best not to squeeze it (probably did a little though)
So I am not sure why it works with the pressure bleeder on the reseviour with pressure but doesnt with just the normal cap,
could there still be air or is something bad.
Thanks for the help everyone
 
  #38  
Old 05-02-2018 | 04:51 PM
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I just ordered a new slave and that seems to be doing the trick. the clutch still was not working so I put a board to compress the clutch overnight and that made it work! But the brakes still need bleeding work I think same with the clutch.
 
  #39  
Old 05-02-2018 | 04:57 PM
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From: soggy pnw
Originally Posted by Colin Schlagel
I just ordered a new slave and that seems to be doing the trick. the clutch still was not working so I put a board to compress the clutch overnight and that made it work! But the brakes still need bleeding work I think same with the clutch.
So the clutch is now good? Good for you.

You can bleed the brake very easily with the pressure bleeder. Not like the clutch. I done both the front and back in no time flat, and waste very little fluid.
 
  #40  
Old 05-02-2018 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pnwR53S
So the clutch is now good? Good for you.

You can bleed the brake very easily with the pressure bleeder. Not like the clutch. I done both the front and back in no time flat, and waste very little fluid.
new thread I posted showing whats wrong at the moment.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...gy-issues.html
 
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