Bleeding Clutch MASTER Cylinder
#27
I think he is referring to this.
When I bled mine, I removed the slave from the mount. I use a home made device to compress the piston a little so it won't pop out. I tilt the cylinder downward so the bleeding nipple is at the highest point to allow the air in the cylinder to rise to it. I think that is key. You can see in the photo the high point in of the cylinder can trap air in the normal mounted position.
When I bled mine, I removed the slave from the mount. I use a home made device to compress the piston a little so it won't pop out. I tilt the cylinder downward so the bleeding nipple is at the highest point to allow the air in the cylinder to rise to it. I think that is key. You can see in the photo the high point in of the cylinder can trap air in the normal mounted position.
#30
I know that I need to bleed the system with the piston compressed, do I take the pressure bleeder of and put the reseviour cap on the brake reseviour before or after I take either the block of wood or clamp off? also do I pump the clutch pedal when I am done if it still goes to the floor with the reseviour cap on or off.
Thanks for the help - SO CLOSE!
#31
For me, I would block the piston. Use no power bleeder but rather attach a clear hose to the bleed screw and loosen it. Do not touch the peddle. Let fluid run out, when you have about an ounce and if there are no bubbles retighten. Go inside and pump the peddle, if soft or no peddle at all, use you hand to pull up and push down the peddle. I cannot remember how many times I had to pump mine but it was well over 50 times.
#32
#34
For me, I would block the piston. Use no power bleeder but rather attach a clear hose to the bleed screw and loosen it. Do not touch the peddle. Let fluid run out, when you have about an ounce and if there are no bubbles retighten. Go inside and pump the peddle, if soft or no peddle at all, use you hand to pull up and push down the peddle. I cannot remember how many times I had to pump mine but it was well over 50 times.
I may cut a piece of wood cause I am getting sick of trying to get the jig I made up on every time. GOOD IDEA
#37
Ok so my dad and I worked on it tonight and it is half way working.
Let me explain what is now happening
With it all back together the clutch only gets stiff and moves the slave at the end and the first 6 inches does not have pressure, when I put the power bleeder back on at 14psi the clutch then feels completely normal, but when removed it goes back to only working at the end.
The other thing that I noticed that I did different was not touch the rubber shroud on the slave cylindar and when I did I could here air escape, does this do something or is the slave broken, cause this time I did my best not to squeeze it (probably did a little though)
So I am not sure why it works with the pressure bleeder on the reseviour with pressure but doesnt with just the normal cap,
could there still be air or is something bad.
Thanks for the help everyone
Let me explain what is now happening
With it all back together the clutch only gets stiff and moves the slave at the end and the first 6 inches does not have pressure, when I put the power bleeder back on at 14psi the clutch then feels completely normal, but when removed it goes back to only working at the end.
The other thing that I noticed that I did different was not touch the rubber shroud on the slave cylindar and when I did I could here air escape, does this do something or is the slave broken, cause this time I did my best not to squeeze it (probably did a little though)
So I am not sure why it works with the pressure bleeder on the reseviour with pressure but doesnt with just the normal cap,
could there still be air or is something bad.
Thanks for the help everyone
#38
#39
You can bleed the brake very easily with the pressure bleeder. Not like the clutch. I done both the front and back in no time flat, and waste very little fluid.
#40
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...gy-issues.html
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