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R56 need help

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  #1  
Old 03-27-2018 | 09:40 PM
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R56 need help

My car ran rough for a month. Today I bought new spark plugs and tried to replace it.. my socket was stuck in the hold then I used WD40 and twist it out from spark plugs hole. Once I replace new plugs and start up my car (engine running very rough) got CEL P0300, P0301, P0303.

My car is Mini Cooper S N14 103,xxx

Do I need a new ignition coil?
 
  #2  
Old 03-28-2018 | 05:51 AM
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clear the codes.

swap coils with 2 and 4 and see if the codes move it.
 
  #3  
Old 03-28-2018 | 09:44 AM
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did you measure and set gap on the plugs before installing them? - improper gap can lead to rough idle and/or misfire

*as stated - swap the coils and see if codes follow the coil location too
 
  #4  
Old 03-28-2018 | 10:18 AM
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You can pick up the correct 12pt socket from autozone for less than $15. Second I’d invest in a torque wrench if you’re not familiar with how tight a spark plug should be. Third definiteley check your gap and make sure you’re running the right plugs.

Do what Mini to be said and swap the packs if the codes move to the new cylinders then it’s the coil packs and you might just have to replace the whole set. Don’t use the autozone coil packs, they burn out really fast.
 
  #5  
Old 03-28-2018 | 10:45 AM
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I replaced all new coil but still have sae problem and same code. Or because of in spark plugs hole has some scratches on the wall ?
 
  #6  
Old 03-28-2018 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Pramuk
I replaced all new coil but still have sae problem and same code. Or because of in spark plugs hole has some scratches on the wall ?
Did you reset the cel after you swapped the coil packs?

If you swapped the coil packs and still have the same codes after a reset and test drive then you need to pull the spark plugs and set the correct gap at .8mm once the engine cools. If there are a few scratches in the hole leading down to where the the spark plug threads in that is not an issue as long as the threads are intact.

Are the coil packs seated properly?

Which spark plugs are you running?

 
  #7  
Old 03-28-2018 | 11:37 AM
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It’s good that you replaced all of the coil packs, now you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a while once you get this misfire figured out.
 
  #8  
Old 03-28-2018 | 11:38 AM
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Also what are you using to scan for codes?
 
  #9  
Old 03-28-2018 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S
Also what are you using to scan for codes?
I use VXDAS am3011 to scan and delete the codes
 
  #10  
Old 03-28-2018 | 11:55 AM
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Pull the spark plugs and measure the gap. It should be .8mm just make sure you’re using the proper unit of measurement thats .031 in inches or .8 millimeters
 
  #11  
Old 03-28-2018 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S
Pull the spark plugs and measure the gap. It should be .8mm just make sure you’re using the proper unit of measurement thats .031 in inches or .8 millimeters
measure size of spark plug? Even I put the old spark plug back still misfire
 
  #12  
Old 03-28-2018 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S


Did you reset the cel after you swapped the coil packs?

If you swapped the coil packs and still have the same codes after a reset and test drive then you need to pull the spark plugs and set the correct gap at .8mm once the engine cools. If there are a few scratches in the hole leading down to where the the spark plug threads in that is not an issue as long as the threads are intact.

Are the coil packs seated properly?

Which spark plugs are you running?

yes new coils and using NGK spark plug ILZKBR7B8DG
 
  #13  
Old 03-28-2018 | 12:22 PM
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I hope I don't need to open head cylinder or have engine fail
 
  #14  
Old 03-28-2018 | 02:14 PM
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torque spec varies on source, but ive found 14-18lbs listed.. I torque mine at 18lbft.

*the NGK plugs you listed should have the stock gap of .8 .. so no worry there. Did you have a misfire prior to changing the plugs? What lead you to changing the plugs in the first place (another issue)?
 
  #15  
Old 03-28-2018 | 02:42 PM
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I torque mine at 18 as well.

op, Have you pulled the little cover off of the wiring harness on the front of the valve cover to inspect the wires?
Does anything look melted or burned?
 
  #16  
Old 03-28-2018 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cornjuice
torque spec varies on source, but ive found 14-18lbs listed.. I torque mine at 18lbft.

*the NGK plugs you listed should have the stock gap of .8 .. so no worry there. Did you have a misfire prior to changing the plugs? What lead you to changing the plugs in the first place (another issue)?
I had rough idle Thats why I replaced the spark plugs then socket get stuck and when I got socket out and put new plugs and Car misfire + P0300, P0301, P0303
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-2018 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S
I torque mine at 18 as well.

op, Have you pulled the little cover off of the wiring harness on the front of the valve cover to inspect the wires?
Does anything look melted or burned?
I haven’t checked that one yet. I already dropped my car at shope to inspect it. Till now no response from the shop yet
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-2018 | 03:02 PM
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Can be High Presure Fuel Pump ?
 
  #19  
Old 03-28-2018 | 04:35 PM
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Do you have pictures of your old spark plugs? If it was the fuel pump we’d probably see some fuel trim codes. If you are able to graph live fuel rail pressure data you can easily tell if your fuel pump is bad. If you get a reading lower than 700psi or its swinging radically (up and down hundreds of psi) then it’s probably the fuel pump.

Can you describe in more more detail this stuck socket scenario?
Did the valve cover get damaged?
Did you pull on it really hard and possibly crack the head?
Did the new spark plug break or make any cracking sounds when you tightened it?
Are all of your ground wires connected?

Hopefully the shop has some answers for you but don’t let them talk you into a fuel pump or timing chain until all bases have been covered.

If if it’s not something obvious start with
graphing live data
air filter change
Spark plug tests
compression & leak down tests
fuel pressure test
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-2018 | 04:42 PM
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I just saw in your other posts that you are running a manic stage 2 tune and you’ve been getting a p115c with reduced boost as well as multiple misfires.
Probably your throttle body or maf sensor or both.
If you can get some readings like a freeze frame of when the codes were thrown or something along those lines that would help a lot. I recently did battle with some misfires a p115c and a few other codes and learned a lot.
 
  #21  
Old 03-28-2018 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S
I just saw in your other posts that you are running a manic stage 2 tune and you’ve been getting a p115c with reduced boost as well as multiple misfires.
Probably your throttle body or maf sensor or both.
If you can get some readings like a freeze frame of when the codes were thrown or something along those lines that would help a lot. I recently did battle with some misfires a p115c and a few other codes and learned a lot.
This just stock MCS not the one with Manic Tuning. I just bought the car one ago and haven’t clean throttle body yet. Just replaced spark plugs and misfires
 
  #22  
Old 03-28-2018 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cornjuice
did you measure and set gap on the plugs before installing them? - improper gap can lead to rough idle and/or misfire

*as stated - swap the coils and see if codes follow the coil location too
I swapped the coils and codes not follow the coil location.
 
  #23  
Old 03-28-2018 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S
Do you have pictures of your old spark plugs? If it was the fuel pump we’d probably see some fuel trim codes. If you are able to graph live fuel rail pressure data you can easily tell if your fuel pump is bad. If you get a reading lower than 700psi or its swinging radically (up and down hundreds of psi) then it’s probably the fuel pump.

Can you describe in more more detail this stuck socket scenario?
Did the valve cover get damaged?
Did you pull on it really hard and possibly crack the head?
Did the new spark plug break or make any cracking sounds when you tightened it?
Are all of your ground wires connected?

Hopefully the shop has some answers for you but don’t let them talk you into a fuel pump or timing chain until all bases have been covered.

If if it’s not something obvious start with
graphing live data
air filter change
Spark plug tests
compression & leak down tests
fuel pressure test

I don’t see any damage on valve cover,
Yes I put it out very hard. I bought locking extension socket to pull and twisted it out. Also I sprayed WD40 to make it easy to pull. I checked the spark plugs hole I saw a little scratches on the wall because of I didn’t use thin socket. When I realized it was too late to pull it out. Didn’t break my old spark plugs,
 
  #24  
Old 03-28-2018 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Pramuk
I don’t see any damage on valve cover,
Yes I put it out very hard. I bought locking extension socket to pull and twisted it out. Also I sprayed WD40 to make it easy to pull. I checked the spark plugs hole I saw a little scratches on the wall because of I didn’t use thin socket. When I realized it was too late to pull it out. Didn’t break my old spark plugs,
Is there any oil near the spark plugs?
Do you see any cracks in the metal?
Are you able to perform a compression test?
What is the oil level?
 
  #25  
Old 03-28-2018 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper_S


Is there any oil near the spark plugs?
Do you see any cracks in the metal?
Are you able to perform a compression test?
What is the oil level?
There is no oil in spark plugs hole or wall crack But thats I worried is there have some very small metal pieces dropped down in the spark plugs hole cy1 and cy3. I used paper towels to clean inside the hole bit can not clean the deep hole.

What is compression test? Oil level is fine
 


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