06/R53 S Hatchback Key Problems
#1
#5
It is not programmed to your specific car. It is costly to have MINI send for a new key as I doubt they will want to touch yours. I had to show prof of ownership and a vin number was then sent to New York and a new key was sent overnight back to the dealership. $400 for a spare key and there was no way of getting around it...at least that was my experience. No one and I mean no one is allowed to program keys.
The following users liked this post:
Loupe' (04-29-2018)
#6
Key for an R53 won't run that high — should be $200-$300. Ask around if there is more than one MINI dealer in your area. For parts sales, each dealer sets their own price and markup. BMW dealers can probably order MINI keys as well.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
What vendor? The only real place you can get a MINI key that will work as expected is from a MINI dealer. Did you give them your VIN, send them your other key or send them one of the modules (EWS I think) from your car?
So what exactly did they do if not cut the blade? I'm assuming that the blade will turn the lock in the door and the ignition as well. Did you do the "button push" procedure to allow the new remote to operate the doors? I believe that's something that can only be done at the car- not remotely (like in another location).
That's normal- I have done that with a real MINI key and one that I have only cut the blade on. Once you start the car it will "remember" that it had a real key in it for a bit and will start again even if the EWS/Immobilizer chip isn't in the second key you use to start it with.
For the flat, three button post-facelift remote keys there are three distinct parts. The first part is the cut blade- this is not too hard to duplicate; I have a key cutting machine downstairs that can duplicate this type of blade. If you order a key from MINI they cut it on a much fancier machine via your car's VIN, which tells the machine how to cut the blade.
The second part is the EWS/Immobilizer chip. When you order a key from MINI, they program this via your VIN, taking the next available EWS/Immobilizer slot (there are 10 available). There are places that can create an EWS chip if you send them your car's computer; however, once you do this, the next key you order from MINI won't work because two EWS chips can not share the same slot. MINI will make your next key using the slot that your aftermarket EWS chip was programmed for because they don't know it exists. For the flat, three button keys the EWS chip is soldered to the circuit board (although it draws no power from the battery) so I don't really know how they make one (earlier keys have the EWS chip separate; it can be made in an ID44 chip creating machine).
The third part of a MINI key is the remote board. For the three button flat keys there is a pairing procedure that you can do yourself and in fact, have to- all remote keys must be present for the procedure. Some dealers charge for this but I'm pretty sure that a MINI remote of this generation can be paired to your car for the first time with this simple procedure.
So the takeaway is that your key is now working about as well as it ever will. The part that is the hardest to duplicate is the EWS/Immobilizer chip and that's for a reason- to make your MINI very hard to steal. Unless the vendor stated clearly "programming is the responsibility of the purchaser" or something like that- and they always do, since they know that the keys they sell won't actually work- I would demand your money back. There's scant chance that you will find an independent locksmith willing to try and make your key work and there's just about zero chance that MINI will try.
For those of you who need a second key at a decent price, I would try MINI of Peabody in Massachusetts (their ad might be at the top of the page RIGHT NOW!). For the '05 and '06 models, there are two keys available, a general, non-remote key that runs about $80 and a remote key which will run $150- $160 or so plus shipping. Order on the website (minipartsmass.com) to get the discount (it's not available over the phone). These are the part numbers to the best of my knowledge-
66126931749
Universal key with remote control
post-facelift
61317127556
Universal key
without remote control
I take no responsibility for the correctness of those part numbers; it's your responsibility to verify these for your car. After you make your purchase you will need to provide MINI of Peabody (or any dealer) with a copy of your license and registration/title as proof of ownership.
If you have any more questions about your key feel free to ask. You can do that on this thread or I promise to clean out my PM box in the next day or two!
Dr. Bruce Hart
MINI Key Hospital
For the flat, three button post-facelift remote keys there are three distinct parts. The first part is the cut blade- this is not too hard to duplicate; I have a key cutting machine downstairs that can duplicate this type of blade. If you order a key from MINI they cut it on a much fancier machine via your car's VIN, which tells the machine how to cut the blade.
The second part is the EWS/Immobilizer chip. When you order a key from MINI, they program this via your VIN, taking the next available EWS/Immobilizer slot (there are 10 available). There are places that can create an EWS chip if you send them your car's computer; however, once you do this, the next key you order from MINI won't work because two EWS chips can not share the same slot. MINI will make your next key using the slot that your aftermarket EWS chip was programmed for because they don't know it exists. For the flat, three button keys the EWS chip is soldered to the circuit board (although it draws no power from the battery) so I don't really know how they make one (earlier keys have the EWS chip separate; it can be made in an ID44 chip creating machine).
The third part of a MINI key is the remote board. For the three button flat keys there is a pairing procedure that you can do yourself and in fact, have to- all remote keys must be present for the procedure. Some dealers charge for this but I'm pretty sure that a MINI remote of this generation can be paired to your car for the first time with this simple procedure.
So the takeaway is that your key is now working about as well as it ever will. The part that is the hardest to duplicate is the EWS/Immobilizer chip and that's for a reason- to make your MINI very hard to steal. Unless the vendor stated clearly "programming is the responsibility of the purchaser" or something like that- and they always do, since they know that the keys they sell won't actually work- I would demand your money back. There's scant chance that you will find an independent locksmith willing to try and make your key work and there's just about zero chance that MINI will try.
For those of you who need a second key at a decent price, I would try MINI of Peabody in Massachusetts (their ad might be at the top of the page RIGHT NOW!). For the '05 and '06 models, there are two keys available, a general, non-remote key that runs about $80 and a remote key which will run $150- $160 or so plus shipping. Order on the website (minipartsmass.com) to get the discount (it's not available over the phone). These are the part numbers to the best of my knowledge-
66126931749
Universal key with remote control
post-facelift
61317127556
Universal key
without remote control
I take no responsibility for the correctness of those part numbers; it's your responsibility to verify these for your car. After you make your purchase you will need to provide MINI of Peabody (or any dealer) with a copy of your license and registration/title as proof of ownership.
If you have any more questions about your key feel free to ask. You can do that on this thread or I promise to clean out my PM box in the next day or two!
Dr. Bruce Hart
MINI Key Hospital
The following users liked this post:
mountainhorse (11-30-2018)
#9
The following users liked this post:
mountainhorse (12-01-2018)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Garbonzo
Stock Problems/Issues
1
03-02-2011 07:15 AM