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Crunchy/squishy sound from front end after replacing tie rods?
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Crunchy/squishy sound from front end after replacing tie rods?
2005 MCS.
I replaced both tie rods yesterday. It went well; no issues with removal or installation.
Today, while driving to work (with plans for alignment after work), I noticed an awkward squishing/crunching sound when I turn to the right while traveling at greater than about 20 mph. The sound seemed to be coming from the left front end. Nothing if I turn the wheel while stopped, nor if I turn to the left while moving.
Inspection of the tie rods, boots, and connections to the steering knuckle reveals no abnormalities. No fluid or loose bolts. The alignment is off but not horrible.
Any idea what this could be? I know crunchy/squishing isn't a good technical term...it almost sounds like swishing liquid, not sure how else to describe. Definitely not grinding or metallic sounding.
So I drove home to inspect further. On the way home, both the DSC light and the Tire Pressure Monitor lights came on and stayed on. The slushy noise stopped.
After lifting and inspecting, I found what appears to be fluid all over the rack and pinion. This is taken from the front looking up and back:
And then looking forward and up from beneath the center of the car:
Anyone seen anything like this before. Is it possible the alignment was so out of whack that is f'd up the rack and pinion? and would this indicate the R&P is totally f'd? I didn't notice anything horrible with the steering while driving home but I was extremely slow and cautious.
It sounds like the rack may have an issue. Possibly even the electric pump is failing, or is low on steering fluid. Make sure to only use recommended hydraulic oil in it!
So I drove home to inspect further. On the way home, both the DSC light and the Tire Pressure Monitor lights came on and stayed on. The slushy noise stopped.
After lifting and inspecting, I found what appears to be fluid all over the rack and pinion. This is taken from the front looking up and back:
And then looking forward and up from beneath the center of the car:
Anyone seen anything like this before. Is it possible the alignment was so out of whack that is f'd up the rack and pinion? and would this indicate the R&P is totally f'd? I didn't notice anything horrible with the steering while driving home but I was extremely slow and cautious.
You need to take a deep breath and calm down. A pint of IPA might help, but don't drive or crawl under the Mini as it might kill you. I would be very careful to interpret the grease coated surfaces in your photos. They look preexisting as the dirt suggests. They can be from engine oil from other unrelated seepage, and more likely the leaky power steering fluid lines. I cannot see a likely relevance of the DSC and flat tire monitor indicator, but stranger things can happen.
A calm head will prevail to successful troubleshooting your problem.
"You need to take a deep breath and calm down. A pint of IPA might help, but don't drive or crawl under the Mini as it might kill you. I would be very careful to interpret the grease coated surfaces in your photos. They look preexisting as the dirt suggests. They can be from engine oil from other unrelated seepage, and more likely the leaky power steering fluid lines. I cannot see a likely relevance of the DSC and flat tire monitor indicator, but stranger things can happen."
Thanks, always glad to relax w a beer.
I checked the PS fluid reservoir and it is low, so I'm pretty sure that is PS fluid sprayed all over. For the lights, several years ago I had accidentally severed what I believe is the speed control sensor wire; I soldered and wrapped the wires and then patched it up with tin foil... no problems for at least 5 years. I suspect the PS fluid sprayed all over this wire and penetrated through my foil patching, tripping the wires. TBD.
In terms of the PS fluid, I'm really wondering if pressure backed up so much in the rack that it caused one of the PS lines to blow? And importantly, whether horribly bad alignment could have caused this? Would really bad alignment cause excessively high PS fluid pressure?
Alignment has no direct relation to the hydraulic system of the power steering. You know on the return line it is under high pressure until about halfway where there is a restrictor valve. This is one main reason some lines leak. Additionally the OEM lines are protected by AL foil jacket from the extreme radiant heat of the exhaust header. Most aftermarket lines are not.
I am glad I didn't heel advice that you should replace you PS lines when you pull your engine. My original lines are pristine and no leak.
My original ones leaked quite a bit by the time of the rack recall last year.
They were about 14 years old by then.
I had the dealer replace them with OEM's when they replaced the rack, though.
My original ones leaked quite a bit by the time of the rack recall last year.
They were about 14 years old by then.
I had the dealer replace them with OEM's when they replaced the rack, though.
My 14 years old hoses have no sign of leak. Can just be a different build day, or even supplier. Or just I seldom turn the steering wheels.
My original ones leaked quite a bit by the time of the rack recall last year.
They were about 14 years old by then.
I had the dealer replace them with OEM's when they replaced the rack, though.
Curious if this is from the rack assembly? I’ve been tearing this 2006 Mini down and replacing all of the suspension. I stopped working on it a couple days, went back to it today, noticed it laying on the passenger front side ground. I’m thinking maybe it was in the rack, when I took the boot off while replacing the tie rod on that side.
" I’m thinking maybe it was in the rack, when I took the boot off while replacing the tie rod on that side."
not sure. how big is it and what material is it made of? can you post better quality pics? i replaced my tie rods a few months ago and don't recall anything like that.
It’s made of rubber, it’s not oily, both side are the same. One corner says “mini” the other says “150”. Picture is from ipad, unfortunately won’t get much better detail.
great, thanks for the f/u. I did some google-searching and could not find a match.
did you drop the subframe for replacing the bushings? I am planning to replace these as well, but dropping the subframe seems daunting.
Yes, I had to drop the subframe. The whole jobs been a royal pain. It’s a rusty, 2006 Chicago winter, 200k mile Mini. Left front strut hadn’t been changed due to broken pinch bolt. It took almost three days to drill out because the previous owner/tech broke off two ez-outs then must have beaten them with air chisel. I couldn’t see them in there. After getting the bolt drilled out and I when to the passenger side, bolt was intact. I went over all the bolts with PB Blaster everyday prior. Passenger pinch bolt broke, but only took one day to drill out. A lot faster with no ez-outs in there and titanium drill bits. I replaced the pinch bolts with 7/16 grade 8 flange bolts. The subframe wasn’t too bad, two bolts up and behind front struts and 3 on each side at rear of sub-fame. I had to remove the steering knuckle bolt and the two nuts to the little black canister to the left of the battery before lowering subframe. It doesn’t come down too far. Only about four inches. I needed it down farther to reach the bushing bolts. They were so tight, and I could get a breaker bar on them. After one day trying to break them loose (and we were soaking them with Blaster) I got to looking at the design and figured the Blaster wasn’t really able to get to the threads. I took a small drill bit and drilled a hole in each “bracket tower” that the bolt goes thru and put the PB Blaster straw in the hole and filled them up. This allowed the Blaster to penetrate the threads only, as it’s only way out was past the threads. I used the ball end of a ball peen hammer against the bracket and hit it with another hammer to help loosen the threads up. I let them sit overnight and they cracked loose the next morning. I used a wire wheel on a die grinder and cleaned all bolts and threads, added a thin coat of anti seize. Removed the old bushing brackets and installed the new ones. While the sway bar was out, I bought new sway bar bushings to reassemble with. When I went to replace the bushings, one side was loaded with flakey rust. Cleaned that off and found that the rust ate a dangerous amount of the metal away. I bought a new sway bar from California off of EBay for $15 and installed that while subframe was down. I couldn’t have replaced it later without lowering the subframe. So today, I’m putting in the new control arms and all the new ball joints. The whole job is all four new struts, control arms, control arm bushings, all ball joints, tie rods, left and right axles, both rear brake cables and the blend door actuator. A note to anyone having to drill out pinch bolts, TAKE THE KNUCKLE OUT, USE A DRILL PRESS and TITANIUM BITS. I did this in our walk out basement, thank God for AC. Here are some pictures.
Last edited by Newbomb Turk; 08-10-2018 at 10:32 AM.
04-30-2018 | 10:37 AM
