SO I have a 2006 R53 with about 90k mile on it. So recently I had the low tire pressure light come on, then the ABS, Brake, and check engine light came on. At the same time I heard a ding and the MPG and trip meters reset. Then everything went back to normal. I cleared the codes which I think was p1661 or something with the can bus system and everything was fine for a day or two.

So the next time this happens, the speedo goes wacky bouncing all over and the temp gauge goes all over the place as well. Then everything back to normal. So I bought a C310 scanner thinking it was probably a bad wheel speed sensor. So turns out the wheel speed sensors look fine, but I did get codes:
5E5C run flat indicator
5e18 CAN data fault DME/DDE
5E11 CAN fault control unit
514 CAN connection to DME/DDE (DSC lamp on until restart)
5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster

So I pulled the connection to the DME and ABS units and poked around the body control unit. Everything looks fine/clean and it hasn't acted up since, but its only been a few days.


On the drive to work today I left the C310 hooked up hoping to catch some codes in the act. So nothing came up, but when I monitored the steering angle sensor, I get no change in parameters when I turn the wheel. Do any of these symptoms seem like they could all be the fault of the steering angle sensor? That would be nice, because trouble shooting the CAN-Bus seems like a nightmare. I was thinking there's probably a bad ground somewhere, but now that the steering angle sensor doesn't seem to be providing any input I wonder if that's the culprit. Kind of an expensive guess. I hope ts just not a connection issue with the C310 scanner.

Anyone have any advice on the trouble codes, steering angle issues or any other ideas besides pulling all the connectors and looking for continuity in the system. really don't want to do that unless I truly have to. Thanks,
-J

 

So after fiddling with the connectors (ABS-DME) the problem got better, but came back. I think the C310 unit just doesn't talk to the steering angle sensor and I'm guessing the sensor is fine. SO the ABS and un Flat indicator came back on but only briefly, I'm guessing it must be a loose connection or a bad ground somewhere. Wish I had a better idea on how to effectively troubleshoot this.

 

Hi, did u solve it ?

 

the wheel speed sensors are used along with the ABS and DSC.. sounds like you may have a faulty or loose sensor wire

*Ive heard of folks that autocross having to disconnect a wheel speed sensor to disable the ABS for races.

 

It is vitally important o use a high end battery and make sure when the car is running, the voltage is 14 to 14.5 volts (BMW wants it at 14.2. If the battery is old and not stable, thungs like this will happen and you will chase them forever!

 

My battery is showing around 16/17 is that going to be an issue? I bought the battery less than 3 months ago.

 

I hope your tester is the problem, as 16 to 17 volts are a serious problem and hard to believe the charging system is the fault. (although it is possible for the voltage regulator could possibly cause that, but again doubtful)
Try it with another meter!

 

Tester was wrong. I ended up taking the hub I just bought off and exchanged it. It ended up being a bad hub. Kind of pisses me off because I spent $112 on a new speed sensor and it wasnt even the issue, but since I used it they won't let me return it.

 

 

It is possible, but I am guessing it is the driver side ABS sensor is dead and that is usually the fix for those two. It is also possible it is the rear right ABS sensor, but I find it 10 X to 1 that the front sensor is the culprit. I hope this helps.

 

I use the cheapest miata battery I can find (light & small) and my abs is fine. You need to get a copy of ista/d or if you cant find that inpa. Put the car on jack stands and with a helper test each wheel to see which wheel speed sensor is not reading. Highly probably that wheel has a bad axle bearing, check that first before you buy a sensor.

 

 

 

So it wasn't related to the wheel speed sensors or anything. I disconnected the ABS Can bus connector thing and re attached it and it was good for about a year. Then it started happening again. This time more frequent and worse. I guess I'll have to disconnect the tach and see if the issue gets better, then repeat with the body control unit, ABS unit, and every other component related to the CAN BUS system. It's super annoying and I'm worried it may be more than one faulty CAN BUS connection. I actually want to get a new car, but I won't sell it if its acting weird. I don't want that karma following me around. I also hear if you trace the wires back from the ABS unit, the pass through the firewall and might rub. Apparently there was some sort of recall, but I guess i can check there as well. I really don't feel like investigating this too much.

I was hoping for a wheel speed sensor or steering angle sensor, but my advanced chassis scanner put those to rest. Definitely something with the CAN BUS system, but I don't want to start replacing items one by one until it gets fixed. Most shops I've been to, want to just replace the TACH then maybe replace the speedometer. I don't want to throw parts at this. If anyone has found a solution or a good way to diagnose these types of issues I would be forever grateful.

 

I would try and get inpa working so that you can get codes. Mini codes. That might lead you to the issue

 

My Mini is doing many of the same things and also getting worse. Did you figure anything out?

Peter

 

You might try bleeding the brakes, but you will need a scan tool, that will let you bleed the abs system as well, or the bleeding will be a waste of time.

 

So I figured it out. Years ago I installed something called iSimple. It plugged into where the 6 CD changer would go and allowed you to play music through your iPhone. It worked great for years, but I’m guessing as the phones changed it was sending some weird interference. The adapter was old for the first gen cables. I had an adapter for the lightning cable and I always got a message about it not being an approved accessory. I’m guessing when the phone was sending data it was somehow interfering with the can bus system. I un plugged it and didn’t have an issue for months. The connection is back in the passenger panel in the rear. Hopefully this is the issue with yours as well. So weird. Good luck guys!!

 

Sadly, I don't have an iSimple or other radio modification to remove.

I replaced all four wheel sensors with no improvement. I've also done some rewiring, swapped the BCU, cleaned the CanBus connectors, and maybe a few other things.

Peter

 

do you have a bmw chassis scanner? It’s like an OBDII scanner but gets much deeper into the cars cpu. I have one that I don’t need anymore, pm me if you are interested.

i just remembered that my Tach was acting wonky as well. It’s super easy to disconnect. I actually did both the stereo and tach thing at the same time. I would drive and if it acted weird disconnect the tach. I ended up buying one on eBay for cheap. I’d disconnect it first though. No need to keep throwing parts at it. good luck bud

 

I have the Schwaben OBDII Mini scanner. It came up with these codes.

P1739 /not present DME Clutch Solenoid - communication error
P1749 /not present DME Secondary Pressure Actuator - communication error
P1611
P1613/not present DME Serial Communication connection, ASC
5E11 /not present ABS-DSC CAN fault in control unit
5E16 /not present ABS-DSC CAN connection to instrument cluster
5E18 /not present ABS-DSC CAN data fault from DME/DDE
51 (Kombi) Fault in transmission management
67 (Kombi) CAN-bus, no message 1 from Kom2
61 (Kombi) CAN - bus, no communication
60 (Kombi) CAN-bus off

I'll try the tachometer disconnect idea as that is cheaper than throwing parts at it. I'll also go through all of the chassis grounds.

Thanks,
Peter

 

o

I lifted this wire from just under the battery area there and twisted it upside down.

 

I lifted this wire from just under the battery area there and twisted it upside down.

I had all but one of those errors. After repairing the above wire, it seems to have kept the trans solenoid errors away and also the 1611 Main Relay low input one away also. I'm still getting the ABS Wheel Sensor and CAN Comm 1613. Did you resolve your situation?

 

All grounds seemed ok. One point: My 2006 Base model has ABS but no DSC. I found the problem with mine. The ABS wire loom that leaves the ABS (only) Module, loops down then up and into the firewall. I saw no scuff marks from contact with anything but cut open the tape. That whole section going to the firewall was filled with water. You have to remove that blower motor inlet cover to gain access, but all those ridiculous BUS COMM errors went away. The instrument cluster comm and dme comm errors are gone. Just left with speed sensor 5d90. I'm gonna replace the wheel sensor now.

Unplugged ABS Connector and removed the plastic tape it was wrapped in. Water, all the way to the firewall.

 

I just pull one of the two ABS fuses. ABS MAY have just ONE advantage to regular braking, and that is if you are driving perfectly straight and you need to stop in a hurry, and continue to hold your straight direction,
​you most likely will stop a little sooner...especially in wet conditions.
But, for every other emergency avoidance manuever or any emergency situation when your car slides away from you, for whatever reason, ABS will keep your motion going into the wrong direction, for sure, and with significantly reduced braking in a curve, making sure you crash into something. Don't get me started.