what AC air temps are you getting at your center top dash, driver dash, passenger dash and small tube to the glove box?

 

this problem is not new, or unique... this thread includes running self diagnostic check https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-problem.html

 

little update:
after getting the dash back together, verifying all the actuators and blend door is working correctly, and making a few changes with air distribution, capping the stub to the glove box, and pinching off the inlet hose to the heater core, I'm getting a temperature reduction of 17-20 degrees F at the dash. The temps get cooler as you go from driver side to pass side. I'm measuring at the pass side center dash vent. I closed off the driver side door vent and the dash top center vent.
pressure are within normal range for an 85-90 degree day. I have a pressure hose from the compressor to the condenser that shows some oily residue. It may be leaking at the rubber to metal juncture, although there's no clear loss of gas based on pressures, and it holds vacuum perfectly for over 30 mins.
I'm planning to wrap the exhaust pipe with heat shield where it passes under the evap

 

problem solved:
I replaced the discharge hose from the compressor to the condenser, replaced the drier receiver, and used a foaming coil cleaner on the evaporator and the condenser, evacuated and recharged. Now I'm getting a 40 degree temp drop (down to 48 F at the vents) and both sides of the dash are equal....
Apparently I prefer the 'research project' approach to auto repairs! I definitely learned all about the system

 

Thank you for posting all this stuff on your "research-project", it helped clear things up. I currently am working working on our own mini AC system as well, and one of my problems possible could be my evaporator being dirty perhaps. It still had the original cabin filter in it from 14 years ago, and it was crazy dirty.

How did you end up cleaning the evap coil out with the foaming cleaner? Did you do it while it was on the car?
Similar like your situation, when mine runs, and is not too cool. And you never really see any puddle/condensation under the car.

I've looked from the passenger side and cant see the evap. So i guess it's accesible from the driver side. Any hints or tips would be welcome before i start tearing into it.
Glad you have your AC fixed, hope i can get mine going soon as well.

 

The main thing causing me to have warm air was the leaking hose from the compressor to the condenser. I was thrown off because my pressures were close to normal in spite of the leaking hose. I'm sure cleaning the evap helped though. If your cabin filter was dirty, that was all the crap that didn't make it to your evapa
The easiest way to access the evap is through the small round vents on either side of the air handler. The one on the passenger side has the convoluted hose taking air flow to the glove box. There's an identical opening on the driver's side, behind the large plastic cover next to the gas pedal. That cover has 3 screws holding it on. The opening on the driver side is capped, but it pops off easily.
If you're feeling really ambitious you can remove the radio HU and climate control module to access the front of the air handler. There's a large rectangular cover over the blend door that accesses the middle of the evap.
To remove the evap the entire hvac unit must be removed from the car.....at that point, replace it
It is also possible to spray the cleaner upward through the condensation drain hose under the car.

 

Thank you for the reply.
I'll see if i have time this weekend to inspect the evap coil. I think i may just buy the foaming coil cleaner and try it, can't hurt i wouldn't think. I would assume the cleaner will just drain out the drain tube underneath the car then.. But will it need rinsing? I would hope/think it won't turn the carpet all wet?

I don't think this is my main problem, but it would hopefully take one item out of the question.

 

I would confirm that the drain hose is open. You can just spray water into the unit on the passenger side vent stub (at the glove box air supply hose)....if you don't eventually see water under the car, that line is blocked...if you do see it draining, but it doesn't drain with ac on, then your evaporator is never cooling enough to make condensation.

 

Hmmmm, Raleigh and summer in North Carolina. DNS Auto Service????????????

 

I fixed mine! after confirming everything else was good, I replaced the hose leaking from the compressor to the condenser....and VOILA! magic cold air!