Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Boost drop? Other issues

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Old 05-16-2018 | 07:53 AM
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Boost drop? Other issues

i have a 2008 mcs, completely stock (sadly) and automatic. I’ve had some issues in the past with timing and misfires but had though I had figured it out (just a ignition coil issue that needed to be replaced). I recently replaced my thermostat, myself and my technician friend who is farmiliar with German cars. The next day I had complete loss of engin power due to what I think was vapor lock. Later that day we presumed we got the vapor lock figured out and it was running perfectly expect: my boost typically starts at 25rmp and lasts till 45/50rpm, I did some pulls and noticed my boost kept falling off at about 30rmp. Not really sure what’s going on there or if all of the previous issues I listed have something to do with it? My car keeps having some vapor lock I think when I first start it up in the morning. I’ve only had my car for a year and am still learning things so give me a break if it sounds like I don’t know what I’m talking about. I’m new at this! Any ideas would be appreciated
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 10:11 AM
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From: DFW
So what kind of codes is the vehicle generating through the scanner?
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 10:18 AM
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Old 05-16-2018 | 11:10 AM
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Those codes all point to the thermostat. Did everything get buttoned up right after the install and was the coolant system bled completely? I would re-check those items first and check coolant temps. I had a bad t-stat out of the box once, could also be that.
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 11:18 AM
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Yeah it was in the shop today and they said everything with the thermostat was fine. They said I need a new coolant temp sensor, I'm assuming that is the root of the problem? Even the boost drop off?
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 11:46 AM
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That is the next logical step. If it isn't the temp sensor then the next step would be the radiator itself and replacing that. Hopefully it is just the temp sensor. Low coolant temps likely means the ECU is cutting boost to protect the engine. You will know shortly!

PS-if it's not too late and they are still in there, you may want them to replace the oil pressure sensor as well. Same location and an inexpensive part that typically fails around the same time a temp sensor fails.
 

Last edited by 08miniS08; 05-16-2018 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 05-16-2018 | 04:06 PM
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I'm thinking it is an out of the box issue... so instead of paying $$$$ to change the coolant temp sensor first I'm going to see if I can exchange the faulty thermostat and see what happens. Thank you for the help!
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 05:29 PM
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You should put a temperature gauge in your MINI, then you would be able to monitor the temperature accurately.
 
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Old 05-16-2018 | 05:39 PM
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If you are going to redo the t-stat you should replace the temp sensor as well. It’s a cheap part and easy to swap out during the t-stat replacement.
 
  #10  
Old 05-18-2018 | 10:31 AM
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How are you monitoring boost pressure?


I doubt you had vapor lock in the usual sense. What were the symptoms (other than power loss)? The rotary cell pump used in these and many other fuel injected cars essentially aren't susceptible to vapor lock.


If your cold starts require several restarts, that is a pretty solid indicator that the HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) is on its last legs. These can be rebuild - search NAM.


Get a Blue Tooth OBD II dongle and an app for your phone that will display live data and monitor fuel pressure during a cold start, post pressure data here. Then lots of people can offer completely uninformed opinions as to the cause.


The loss of boost you describe has a number of causes, but since it is coupled with a thermostat change I would also cast a jaundiced eye on the vac hoses. You can replace these very cheaply by buying hose from parts store or (not so cheap - $50) a kit from Mini. Make sure you did not cross couple any sensor plugs near the T'stat.


Additional thoughts ( not related to the above): Treat the vacuum pump as a wear item and replace by 80K. The Pierberg after market one if fine.
 
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