Help me!!!
#1
Help me!!!
hi guys, so I have a problem with my 2003 mini cooper. My check engine, abs and brake light all came on at the same time. P0500 code after testing it with a scanner. Replaced both of the rear wheel speed sensors today. Didn't help, but ran into a problem. My speedo works but when I turn my headlights on, my speedometer stops working. The needle drops down to 0 mph. If I start the car with my headlights on the speedometer will work. It only stops working is when my driving and turn my headlights on. Any suggestions ?
I replaced the sensors with after market ones. It was cheaper and I'm on a budget.
I replaced the sensors with after market ones. It was cheaper and I'm on a budget.
#5
Just because you replace the alternator doesn't mean it's still working, especially if it's a discount parts house brand unit (Autozone, O'Rilleys/Kragen, Napa).
Get a volt meter put it on the battery while someone turns on the lights, if the voltage drops below 13 volts your alt is not doing it's job.
Get a volt meter put it on the battery while someone turns on the lights, if the voltage drops below 13 volts your alt is not doing it's job.
#6
Actually, with the car running, the voltage shouid be no lower than 14.0 volts, as the system on these cars needs that to function properly. (14.2 to 14.5 is proper spec) If the battery is worn out, or the alternator is not charging enough, you will have many codes, that will come and go and many weird things with the electrical can occur.
#7
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#8
Kyle,
If you have the OBC feature on your car, use that to monitor voltage while the engine is running and with the ignition in position 2 with engine off. Like Wayne said, engine on, voltage should be near 14 (turn off all accessories and A/C), engine off will be 12.5 or higher.
Go here for info on how to get to the diagnostic options:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-obc-menu.html
i tend to agree that your car is suffering from a general low voltage issue rather than a specific fault.
Also, check your grounds too.
Report back what you find out.
#10
Your battery is suspect. How old is the battery? It might have a bad cell.
I would guess if you were to disconnect the battery from the car and tested the voltage again, the measurement would be less than 12.5 after an hour or two.
As you saw, once you put a load on the battery, the voltage dropped way low. Good news though, your alternator appears to be working. It is, however, working overtime to keep up with the demand of the electrical load.
#12
Hmm, well, 15+ years is a loooong time. MINI = BMW, but who knows, if you're not the original owner, all bets are off on the fidelity of that battery.
BTW, I've had fairly good luck with First Interstate batteries. They also have a refurb program where you can buy refurbished batteries very inexpensively. I think the last time I checked, a battery for a MINI was about $180 new and $50 for a refurb.
BTW, I've had fairly good luck with First Interstate batteries. They also have a refurb program where you can buy refurbished batteries very inexpensively. I think the last time I checked, a battery for a MINI was about $180 new and $50 for a refurb.
#14
Kyle
There's a date on BMW/MINI batteries. Check that first to see how old your battery really is.
I replaced my original 2002 battery in 2013 for $155.99 after 11 years.
Autozone have batteries that are perfect replacements for MINI batteries.
If the battery isn't the problem, I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, ignore the warning light & see if everything else then works correctly.
I'd also check all the ground cables & battery connections - they should all be clean & bright & tight. The critical one is under the right side engine mount, clearly visible (at least on the 'S'), but there are several others.
There's a date on BMW/MINI batteries. Check that first to see how old your battery really is.
I replaced my original 2002 battery in 2013 for $155.99 after 11 years.
Autozone have batteries that are perfect replacements for MINI batteries.
If the battery isn't the problem, I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, ignore the warning light & see if everything else then works correctly.
I'd also check all the ground cables & battery connections - they should all be clean & bright & tight. The critical one is under the right side engine mount, clearly visible (at least on the 'S'), but there are several others.
#16
You may well be right! It's just that the grounds are very sensitive on Minis & everybody else went straight for a battery problem.
I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, one at a time if you like, ignore the warning light & see if anything changes.
PS - I'm trying to save you $160!!!!
I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, one at a time if you like, ignore the warning light & see if anything changes.
PS - I'm trying to save you $160!!!!
Last edited by MVPeters; 06-18-2018 at 10:37 AM. Reason: PS forgot something!
#18
Kyle
There's a date on BMW/MINI batteries. Check that first to see how old your battery really is.
I replaced my original 2002 battery in 2013 for $155.99 after 11 years.
Autozone have batteries that are perfect replacements for MINI batteries.
If the battery isn't the problem, I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, ignore the warning light & see if everything else then works correctly.
I'd also check all the ground cables & battery connections - they should all be clean & bright & tight. The critical one is under the right side engine mount, clearly visible (at least on the 'S'), but there are several others.
There's a date on BMW/MINI batteries. Check that first to see how old your battery really is.
I replaced my original 2002 battery in 2013 for $155.99 after 11 years.
Autozone have batteries that are perfect replacements for MINI batteries.
If the battery isn't the problem, I'd disconnect the new sensors at their plugs, ignore the warning light & see if everything else then works correctly.
I'd also check all the ground cables & battery connections - they should all be clean & bright & tight. The critical one is under the right side engine mount, clearly visible (at least on the 'S'), but there are several others.
#19
Yes, Kyle, & it looks as though you've done that.
If the speedo & lights problem still exists, then it's co-incidental with changing the sensors.
My motto is always "Do the cheap stuff first"!
So now I'd check & clean the battery connections & grounds, then check the plugs for corrosion on the modules that control the headlights & speedo. All this is just your time = 'free'!
You could try disconnecting the battery overnight.
If all those check out, then look at the battery & consider replacing it. How old is it?
If the speedo & lights problem still exists, then it's co-incidental with changing the sensors.
My motto is always "Do the cheap stuff first"!
So now I'd check & clean the battery connections & grounds, then check the plugs for corrosion on the modules that control the headlights & speedo. All this is just your time = 'free'!
You could try disconnecting the battery overnight.
If all those check out, then look at the battery & consider replacing it. How old is it?
#20
#23
Did AutoZone clear the P500 codes?
I don't think they need to, but you do need to drive the car for a few minutes after replacing sensors.
Apparently some inexpensive sensors just flat out don't work, even if they are listed for a Mini. AZ list a dozen or so from $30-$120 & I don't know what the difference might be. There are several other threads on this forum.
The battery date is in clear sight on the top of the battery.
#24
Tomorrow I'll get the date on the battery. No tests were done to the battery due to me being in a rush and having some other things to do so I'll go back tomorrow also. These sensors were also really cheap. I did not buy them from mini. Also tomorrow I will unplug them again and drive around and see what happens. Thank you guys so much for helping me with this.
#25
Unplugged sensors and went for a ride, the speedo didn't work at all. Then I plugged just the driver rear in. Drove around. Speedo worked. Dropped again when I turn my headlights on. I then plugged in the passenger rear. Same out come. Check the date on the battery and I literally couldn't find one anywhere. I noticed a sticker on the side from 2016 . I had brought it to get charged at autozone cas it had died after my alt. Had failed on me. Noticed the negative terminal was a bit lose. Tightened it, went for a drive. Turned on headlights while driving and it barely dropped. It wasn't as bad. It dropped maybe 200 rpm only. Before it was drop down to 0 mph. Check engine still on for wheel speed sensor