I think something else is going on. I replaced the o2 sensors and that didn’t fix it. Engine runs in closed loop from cold start. Ecu is instructing this command because of some other problem. I did get a misfire in #3 which was the bad cylinder that blew out an exhaust valve. I had head repaired at shop. Also had injectiors tested and cleaned. Not sure what else I can do at this point. Compression is on the low end, especially for just getting head rebuilt, but still acceptable. Again numbers are 135 130 118 135. Bentley manual said 8-12 bar with no more than 3 bar difference so I’m still within acceptable range. I think... Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Bump

Thanks for the post man. Don’t have a photo. If the concern is about the pin being fully in and locking crank, it was. I’ve had to do this before I know how that pin slides in. The crank was locked. I’m sure of it. Thanks man. I’m gonna run it for a bit longer today. Gonna throttle it a bit to see if I can get some codes to come up. Also gonna get a leak down test done. My poo poo compressor won’t get high enough. Ugh...

i don’t have the bmw software. I tried ordering through b cables a long time ago but couldn’t get it to load or work on my laptop.
My PCV pipe was cracked big time. I caught it when disassembling engine. I pulled the jacket back and it was in two pieces. Full of gunk. So bad. I should’ve ordered a new one but I just cleaned it and gorilla taped the hell out of it. It could still have a crack I missed but I don’t think this is my issue. But at least it’s something to check! Thanks! I’m ordering a leak down kit today. I’ll know if, where, and how much each cylinder is leaking. Man... Back to square 1.

Man I wish I had the software. Maybe I’ll try b cables again. Last time I checked plugs they were dry. I did send out the fuel injectors and rail to be tested and cleaned. I was told they were good. All the clips and seals were replaced.

Has anyone heard of maybe having adaptation values reset? Could this help?

Progress is slow. Fearing the cyl head wasn’t sealing up after machine shop repair (because of low compression values -135 130 116 138), I did leakdown test. Numbers were pretty consistent with about 8%-12% on all four. No surprise #3 was the highest at 12%. That was the cyl with blown exhaust valve. My concern with the test is that my tester only went up to 30psi when leak gauge calibrated at zero. I’ve read this is okay and that it still tells you where air leaks but it’s just harder to hear.
I’m wondering if the test at 30psi is okay. Would a test at 100psi show more leakage? Seems to me any leakage would be greatly increased at the much higher psi. Like would my 12% go up to 20%? 30%? Or higher?
Second question: The center bolt of cyl head cover on timing chain side is stripped. The machine shop was supposed to fix it but they missed it. I just didn’t think it would effect the way it runs. I thought it’d just leak a bit of oil. Could this be the cause of rough running? I’m thinking not because when you pull the pcv air hose off it wants to die, but by simply covering the end with hand engine goes back to smooth idle even though the pcv hose isn’t attached. I remember this from when I did a sea foam treatment. Let me be clear, this only applies to a good running engine not mine in current condition. Even if this bolt not tightening down doesn’t effect anything I’m thinking I need to pay to have a smoke test done. I wish they sold like a can of smoke that was safe for engine that one could use. Machines are too damn expensive.