I have a R53 2004 CooperS, we just got it running, all of the guages were working fine and now, after just a few days of running, the gas guage is stuck in the empty position, with the red light on? Is this something that happens often, or is this unusual? I justtopped off the tank with 93 octane, drove for the gas station to the house, guage was working fine, went back out to go to dinner, and the gauge is not working.... strange or no?

 

Moving you to the Gen1 Stock Problems/Issues section.

 

The gas guage is controlled by a float on the fuel pump. If it becomes trapped or loose you will get random readings on the tank level.

How many miles on the current fuel pump and fuel filter?

 

124575. just bought the car... was driving it today, fuel guage started working, then about 20 miles into ride, the power steering quit working, the battery light came on, then the guages stopped working completley and i got it home.... We just finished redoing all of the hoses, belts, we did add a 15% reduction pulley, put in a new MSD coil pack and wires, colder plugs, cold air intake from DDM, all new stainless 2.5" exhaust without a Cat, but both o2 sensors are installed into the new exhaust, had no check engine light showing , then we did, now no lights in the dash..... but both tach and speedo locked up, air bag lights are one, brake sensor lights are on, tire pressure sensor lights on, but I don't have TPM in the new wheels and tires we installed so i figured that is why for that light to be on, bought a reflash for the ECU, but it won't be here till next week sometime..... any suggestions?

 

If everything lit up like a Christmas tree it sounds like you need to check the battery and the gound connections. I would suggest waiting on doing any flashing of the ECU if you are having electrical gremlins. Make sure all the connections are snug and give a pull on the battery cables at the terminals to make sure they are tightened down all the way.

 

A failing battery could definitely cause all the electrical goofiness you are experiencing.

Having the battery load tested would definitely my first course of action here. If the car is not able to be driven, remove the battery and bring it to a local auto parts store such as Autozone (or similar) which should be able to throw it on a tester for you. Keep in mind that a mere voltage test is not the same as performing a proper load test on the battery.

Please report back to the forum with the resolution of this issue for the benefit of current and future forum members who have similar issues. It's how we all learn.

 

I did as you suggested, we had previously done just a regular voltage test and the battery passed, but this time, under a load... no go! So, I have opted to go to a optima yellow top battery, no issues with fitment since we have already cut up the stock battery box location for our race exhaust, so we are buildinga custom battery mount, it should be done by next weeks end. Thanks for the help guys!