PLEASE tell me if my lower control arm bushings are bad!
#1
PLEASE tell me if my lower control arm bushings are bad!
Ok, I just did some testing. I have the car on stands and the front end completely off for engine bay service and had the neighbor kick each front tire from the front....so force straight into the car like if you were hitting something. As he did this I held my hand around each lower control arm bushing (LCAB). They both had a decent amount of flex but the passenger side was the worst. I could feel the inner part of the bushings move enough to slightly pinch my fingers. Even punching the tire with the palm of my hand I can see the tire shake and wiggle front to back. I have no idea what is acceptable here but I think this is excessive and I already have the car apart. In my book any movement is not good but while I'm German , I'm not a German engineer.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind spending the money onthe PowerFlex bushings but don't want to waste money.
Thanks guys
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind spending the money onthe PowerFlex bushings but don't want to waste money.
Thanks guys
#2
If the car is an r50/52/53 and the bushings are the original ones....then they are most certainly bad at this point. They are usually toast by around 50k miles.
If things are already apart, then yes I would replace them while you’re in there. Get the Powerflex bushings.....you’ll never need to replace them again.
If things are already apart, then yes I would replace them while you’re in there. Get the Powerflex bushings.....you’ll never need to replace them again.
#3
Thank you, and yes its a 2005 r53 with 75K miles and everything is original except the struts and mounts which I have already replaced since the passenger mount was cracked bad. I assumed the LCABwere bad...I just didn't want to mess with the inner ball joints so I guess I'll just drop the sub-frame and get in there and clean out all the oil these cars leak. German engineers are horrible.
#4
Thank you, and yes its a 2005 r53 with 75K miles and everything is original except the struts and mounts which I have already replaced since the passenger mount was cracked bad. I assumed the LCABwere bad...I just didn't want to mess with the inner ball joints so I guess I'll just drop the sub-frame and get in there and clean out all the oil these cars leak. German engineers are horrible.
This last time (just recently) I dropped the sub frame to do the job....just unbolted the inner ball joints to get the control arms off along with the LCA bracket still attached. This made it way easier to pry them apart when off the car as a separate unit. I also ordered a set of powerflex bushings already pre-pressed into used brackets from waymotorworks (sent mine back as cores). This method was much easier than the first time even with the extra trouble of dropping the subframe (which wasn’t as bad as I though it’d be).
good luck and happy wrenching!
#6
Here’s a pretty good guide.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...me_Removal.htm
The only issue I ran into was when reconnecting the steering knuckle, the steering wheel had gotten turned while disconnected. When I got the car back together and test drove, I could tell that something was getting strained inside the steering wheel (wiring, etc?) when making a hard right turn. Figured out I needed to disconnect the knuckle, turn the wheel one full rotation left and reconnect.....then was all good. Moral of the story.....don’t turn the wheel (or keep track of how it has turned) while disconnected from the steering rack. You may need to turn it some to reattach the knuckle and/or replace/tighten the pinch bolt. This will make sense when you’re in there doing it.
also, consider replacing your swaybar bushings. You will have complete access to them....they attach using the same bolts that hold the lca brackets on. Swaybar Bushings are cheap. I didn’t do this.....even though mine seem to be fine, I wish I had.
if you run into any problems, give me a PM shout.....I did this a couple of months ago and it’s still fairly fresh in my mind.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...me_Removal.htm
The only issue I ran into was when reconnecting the steering knuckle, the steering wheel had gotten turned while disconnected. When I got the car back together and test drove, I could tell that something was getting strained inside the steering wheel (wiring, etc?) when making a hard right turn. Figured out I needed to disconnect the knuckle, turn the wheel one full rotation left and reconnect.....then was all good. Moral of the story.....don’t turn the wheel (or keep track of how it has turned) while disconnected from the steering rack. You may need to turn it some to reattach the knuckle and/or replace/tighten the pinch bolt. This will make sense when you’re in there doing it.
also, consider replacing your swaybar bushings. You will have complete access to them....they attach using the same bolts that hold the lca brackets on. Swaybar Bushings are cheap. I didn’t do this.....even though mine seem to be fine, I wish I had.
if you run into any problems, give me a PM shout.....I did this a couple of months ago and it’s still fairly fresh in my mind.
#7
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#8
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Sounds like the typical worn out front control arm bushings. They are almost always worn out if you have 40K miles on the car. So replace them with the powerflex and you'll never have to worry about them again. Plus you'll love how the front end will tighten back up like new again.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
#9
Yes sir, subframe is out, control arms are out. I found idiot tracks everywhere from some hack mechanic being in there. At least one bushing was replaces as there is evidence of a sawzall to remove it. Torn ball joint boot on the same side. Wrong bolt in the ball joint on the other side.........now the bushing brackets are cleaned up with no bushings and have been deburred and polished a bit with emery cloth. Just waiting for new parts to arrive.
#10
Yes sir, subframe is out, control arms are out. I found idiot tracks everywhere from some hack mechanic being in there. At least one bushing was replaces as there is evidence of a sawzall to remove it. Torn ball joint boot on the same side. Wrong bolt in the ball joint on the other side.........now the bushing brackets are cleaned up with no bushings and have been deburred and polished a bit with emery cloth. Just waiting for new parts to arrive.
#11
What a PITA. You just never know what you’ll run into on cars this age. I recently had some stall issues.....thought it was a bad crank position sensor. Turns out that it had been recently replaced, but the knucklehead of did the job yanked on the wiring and damaged/stretched it. That was a fun repair.
#12
DITTO on this. My sway bar bushings are shot and need to do the whole thing over again. Not my choice really as the LCA were done under warranty with crappy replacements. The benefit of DIY is that you can use quality parts.
#13
Oh yes, ordered them Monday, got them today. I'll install the PowerFlex LCA bushings tomorrow and probably get the whole suspension back together.
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