Also, looks like these two relays are not pin compatible.

 

A94Cobra,

The JBE that's in the 07 MCS I'm working on now appears to have the same PCB configuration of the one in the photos that you posted, so if the issues it's experiencing are just the LPFP relay, you may have a new customer for a relay or two. Have a good weekend sir.....

John

 

A94, I sent you a private message. I got a look at my relay and it looks the same though my board looks different than yours.

 

Ok, I have run into some mis-information here. The OP indicated the Fuse was F46. On mine it is F43. I assume they should all be F43. Maybe he will chime in and correct that or someone else can confirm for me. But if that is the case, I may be looking at the wrong relay. Anyone have better resources for the board layouts? To see what each relay does? The NEC relay is linked to F43 not the Hella, on mine at least.

 

So, pulled the JBE out to have a look at what I am working with. Put it back in and not I am getting "vehicle electronics failed" light (car on lift) as well as a ton of other lamps and no fuel gauge. Is there a way to reset this or did I just wreck this thing? TIA.
The first photo is when the key is first inserted. The second is when I push the start button to get power. The car wont start, the windows won't react and the key fob does nothing (no lock or unlock). I'm thinking it's getting towed to the dealer.

 

make sure the JBE connectors are plugged firmly, SPECIALLY the bottom 2.

 

Hi all,
Great stuff!
Here with a ‘07 cooper s turbo with similar problems.
Narrowed down to this relay, and already have jbe out and apart.

*Does anyone have a pic of pcb back side??
Traced most with dmm. Hoping for more insight before cutting studs though.
Also, there’s an external resistor linked to relay..(possibly, why a photo of back side would help greatly) It’s reading out of spec. Wanted to mention it since haven’t read anything about it.

 

Pic of the back of mine. Is the yours similar?

 

I believe so. Here’s mine.

Pulled the relay’s diagram and after some probing, I believe the switch leg isn’t working. It should have continuity to one of the post even when open.. I think, I’m no electrician.

Thank you! I’m going to go over your pic and probably cut this thing apart

 

So if you trace the F43 it goes to the NEC relay. Here is a pin out of that relay. Which leg are you thinking? Pin 9 and 5 are not connected to anything.

 

Yeah, I tested continuity on 8&9 and thought 1&5 didn’t. They ended up good.

Now that I have studied it, this relay is a double circuit powering the pump and the horn. 1,2,3,5, &10 run pump. The others are powered from fuse 44. And the horn side has the external resistor on the coil. What does your measure? Mine tests 194 ohms, but colors suggest it’s a 1500.. New to me car, crank no start, never tried the horn..

Back to the pump, where is pin 3 fed from? If similar to horn side, 12v should come from the fuse for both the main power pin (1&8) and one side of coil (3&6), but I only have continuity to pin 1 from F43.
So I think the solder/board/pin around 3 is problematic. I’m going to take it apart as I can’t see anything.

Anyone still shipping extra relays?

 

I have the hella relays. I ordered the NEC here https://www.onlinecomponents.com/wor...-44366211.html

 

JWPII, Hi, if you have an extra EP2F-B3G1ST I would buy it from you. Please contact me via this thread. (I also sent you a private message). Thank you!

 

Hello All
I have been chasing and issue on my 2010 R56 Clubman S and this thread is awesome. While I am comfortable working on the car, the electronics side is definitely where I come up short. So I am having the exact same problem as the original poster. It started with a couple stalls in the driveway while warming the car this winter and has become more and more frequent. Last night, the car started on its own but died shortly there after and hasn't started since. I have changed the HPFP and now the LPFP in the last week....no improvement. I get 9 volts at the LPFP but it doesn't ever seem to run. Finally, out of frustration tonight, I jumped the LPFP directly from the battery. It sprang to life and the car started right up. Additionally, I was able to keep the car running but periodically, jumping the LPFP and (obviously) supplying the engine with fuel. So does this sound like a bad JBE or more specifically the relay? (Like I said, the connector on the LPFP does deliver 9V when the car is trying to start but no activity from the pump.)
I am not sure I have the knowledge to replace the relay as some have done on this thread but I want to look at all my options. To this point, I've put $500 worth of pumps into the car when it would seem, neither was the issue. But at least they are new.
Cheers, and thanks in advance
Dan

 

You can try eBay, Start with year and model, then to matching Numbers and series. Pain in the a-- to remove from under dash, look on this sight and YouTube to see if it is something you would feel comfortable doing. I got lucky to a degree. Paid $150, had almost exact match on numbers and it cured fuel pump issue but had a bad fuse slot for door locks. Some sites won't take returns, so buy eBay electronics insurance, they will either fix it or return what you paid. I think it was $10 - $12 dollars. There should definitely be a recall with a permanent factory repair. Incredibly incompetent design. Good Luck Working on a Mini is like chasing your tail!!

 

BIG thank you to everyone on this thread and platform. After reading the above thread, I decided to attempt to replace the relay myself and after doing so, my Clubman roared back to life immediately! Couple of things I took away from the exercise...like one of the previous posters, one of contacts on the fuel pump relay had a bad solder joint. I don't know if it contributed to the failure or was a result of the failure or had nothing to do with it (but that seems too coincidental to be the case). I did test the relay though and confirm it was bad. As noted previously, this is a double relay. When I put 12V to the other relay switch (looks like its the wipers), I could hear an audible click. But when I did it to the fuel pump side, I got a strange buzzing. Perhaps a short? Again for others looking into this issue, I was getting 8-9V at the fuel pump. Anyway, soldering the new piece was a piece of cake once I got the 2 halves apart. Just make sure you get a solder sucker to remove the old component.
Like others, I had to buy 10 relays. So I have an extra 8. If you want one, let me know, I'll sell them off for the $5 I paid for them plus shipping. (If you're like me, you'll want it next day.)
Also, having done this once, I am happy to do the same repair on anyone's JBE who doesn't feel comfortable doing the repair themselves. Cheers, Dan.

 

2010 R56 here. I split the board and found a cold/cracked solder joint on the LPFP relay. Very obvious. After reflowing the car is now back to its former glory. (minus the oil leak). My symptoms were random stalling at the worst possible times. Waiting for the car and board to cool down to expand allowed me to restart and drive on. Great post. Wonder how many people suffered this not knowing.

 

I'm currently experiencing this problem - crank & no start. Troubleshot the problem to the JBE. I haven't split the boards just yet but would like to get the relays in case it needs replacement.

PMs sent to A94cobra and Jwpiii.

 

How is this repair holding up? Looks like I am facing the same issue with my 2010 Mini S. Already changed out hpfp, lpfp and fuel filter. I do not have the jbe out of the car yet, but was wondering if you still have any relays left.

 

Hi William,

I encountered exactly the same situation you had above. I much appreciate if you could tell me what the problems were and how you resolved them. Thanks.

 

Do you know what size pins?

 

As far as I know, the JBE has nothing to do with central locking, so it may not have been caused by what you did.

 

I have the dreaded broken solder connection on my JBE LPFP relay. Before I replace the relay (I'm going to be soldering anyway figured I'd replace the whole thing) what caused this in the first place?? Is this relay getting hot enough to melt that exact solder pin on all these JBE boards? Mine board appears to have a scorch mark under the relay! Should a higher amp relay be used? If so, is there one with the same pin pattern?

Thank you again for all the assistance you ALL provide. Your collective knowledge and wisdom is very appreciated.

 

so my question is, if I find a JBE unit with the same part number it should work without reprogramming the unit? Dealership wants to charge me 2k for this.
help please

 

anyone ever tell you what size pins used to connect the 2 pcb's?