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2013 R56 S Injectors Seals + Problem in the burning room (mainfold)

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  #1  
Old 10-08-2018 | 09:16 AM
maidi3000's Avatar
maidi3000
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2013 R56 S Injectors Seals + Problem in the burning room (mainfold)

Hello..
I would like to know the ansewrs for my following questions plz:
1- What is the part number for the OEM injectors seals?
2- Is there any special tool to be used to replace them? Or just I need to replace the blue seal only if I took them for clean?
3- Do I need to change tha Canister and Leak Detector..?
I removed the mainfold to try to clean the burning room (I don't no what u call that part of the block) (claen valves and remove carbon)..I had a look to that place from left to right front of the car (4 holes where the mainfold attached) and I found that the first hole is too much dark carbon but the other 3 holes not that much!!?? Now my question is..Is there a problem on the one? (The first hole) why that one is too much dirty rather than the others??? Is that a sign of a problem on that cylender of vavles??
Hope anyone can answer me..
Notes:
There were misfiring codes shown..(P0300/P0301/P0302/P0303/P0171 and P2402 when I changed the filter)
I changed the fuel filter last night coz the car started to power down and missing (I don't no how to say it)..It was dark.
Now planing to clean the injectors.
I wanted to upload video files showing the how it look like coz the photos weren't clear enough
Thank u
 
  #2  
Old 10-08-2018 | 11:29 AM
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From: Northern NV
Here's a couple sites to help. You'll need the last seven characters of your VIN ---
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select for an illustrated parts list
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ for all the procedures and tools

Based on my experience with an '07 MCS, don't even think about removing / installing injectors without the special tool. And, the only time I've read about the seals being replaced is when the head is removed for machine shop work. Seals are NOT a common failure.

If one intake manifold port is "much dirty than the others", it might be a bad PCV system, an integral part of the valve cover. Try to find a mechanic that knows Mini's and can do a "walnut blasting" to clean the intake valve stems. That might help fix the misfire codes.
 
  #3  
Old 10-08-2018 | 07:15 PM
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Thank u for replying..no one is doing "walnut blasting" as I know..
I will check the links later on..
 
  #4  
Old 10-08-2018 | 07:44 PM
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You will need special tool to remove the teflon seal at the emitter end of the injector. Though I did remove injectors one time without replacing those teflon seals and put them back in, in the back of my head today while driving I'm always still thinking about possibility of it leaking or failing. Nonetheless, just last week I bought the special tool just in case I need to do that seal when something happens. All other seals, the blue ring and retainer tab, those are easy to do. It's the teflon seal which will be a pain if you don't have the special tools.

Regarding your valves being dirty, on earlier models such as the 2006-2010 pre-LCI cooper S, we have the direct injection setup on the N14 engine. It's the absence of fuel spray at the intake port which caused lack of cleaning on the valves as the air passes through. Blow-by air/oil mist often get passed through the crankcase valve and into the intake to cause sticking and "coking" up the valves. In this case Walnut Blasting service is needed. There are people with successful attempts by using an assortment of needle point picks and brass brushes and spray cleaners to clean those valves. I just set my garage up with air compressor and blasting kit, every second oil change I blast those valves and keep them clean, that's just me. On your 2013 MCS, I believe yours is an N18 engine, I haven't worked with that motor before so I don't know if it's also a direct injection setup to have similar problems. But hearing you stating that your valves are that dirty, I imagine you also in dire need of that walnut blasting service on the car. Good luck and happy motoring.
 
  #5  
Old 10-08-2018 | 09:27 PM
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Thank u ..
The problem is I can not get all what I need to do the blasting and no one here do it..I am now trying to clean it using a cloth and a degreaser..and don't no if it going to work but as I saw, I removed a lot of carbon from the place since last night and still doing it..
I want to ask about something that may help or may not..If I spray the decreasee inside the hole and left it for awhile, is it going to affect the head cylinder??
I am using a degreaser which use to clean the engine surface (pink solution spray)..It written on it that I have to wash the place by water after cleaning using this degreaser (I know that I should not put or wash that holes by water)..the other question is..can I spray a petrol using compressor to clean the valves? Or it will affect the head cylinder?? And If I sprayed where the petrol will go?? Or should I suck it out??
 
  #6  
Old 10-08-2018 | 09:34 PM
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Sorry I forgot about the teflon..I found somewhere BOSCh injectors (each $65) and the OEM $326 each!!! Do u think if I bought BOSCH it will work well?? Or not recommended?
And the injector service kit is $75-100 each
Now what do u think from the above list of prices??
 
  #7  
Old 10-08-2018 | 09:52 PM
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I will try to upload 2 photos showing before and after littel clean..


Before..
 
  #8  
Old 10-08-2018 | 09:53 PM
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After
sorry I am using a phone..This is the dirty one...
 
  #9  
Old 10-08-2018 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Yupetc
You will need special tool to remove the teflon seal at the emitter end of the injector. Though I did remove injectors one time without replacing those teflon seals and put them back in, in the back of my head today while driving I'm always still thinking about possibility of it leaking or failing. Nonetheless, just last week I bought the special tool just in case I need to do that seal when something happens. All other seals, the blue ring and retainer tab, those are easy to do. It's the teflon seal which will be a pain if you don't have the special tools.

Regarding your valves being dirty, on earlier models such as the 2006-2010 pre-LCI cooper S, we have the direct injection setup on the N14 engine. It's the absence of fuel spray at the intake port which caused lack of cleaning on the valves as the air passes through. Blow-by air/oil mist often get passed through the crankcase valve and into the intake to cause sticking and "coking" up the valves. In this case Walnut Blasting service is needed. There are people with successful attempts by using an assortment of needle point picks and brass brushes and spray cleaners to clean those valves. I just set my garage up with air compressor and blasting kit, every second oil change I blast those valves and keep them clean, that's just me. On your 2013 MCS, I believe yours is an N18 engine, I haven't worked with that motor before so I don't know if it's also a direct injection setup to have similar problems. But hearing you stating that your valves are that dirty, I imagine you also in dire need of that walnut blasting service on the car. Good luck and happy motoring.

I found that tool here in my country but too much expensive..nearly $130-150


 
  #10  
Old 10-09-2018 | 08:45 AM
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Hey..
I just called one of my friends and he adviced me the followings:
1- Disconnect fuel pump line or remove the fuse.
2- Remove the spark plugs.
3- Reconnect the battrey and start the engine till the valves closed and clean the closed one and do the same for the others.
Also that one to remove any remains inside the block to not damage the cyliders (b-coz of the pressure).
And also to use a carburetor cleaner to clean the valves manually.
Is that a right way??
 
  #11  
Old 10-09-2018 | 01:38 PM
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Carburetor cleaner is the correct cleaner to use to clean the valves. It should give you no problem.

About that method, I can't agree nor deny its validity. But I did see from an youtube channel of people doing it to the BMW 335i's. It's very similar to what you're talking about, except they use a foam based cleaner, I couldn't tell what that is, though, it's all in Chinese. But they did remove the intake manifold, get access to the valves and sprayed that foam stuff into them directly. Let them sit for 5 minutes, then remove the spark plug holes while cranking the engine to spray them out of the spark plug holes. I've never done it this way or know much about it. So this I can't really help.
 
  #12  
Old 10-11-2018 | 12:16 AM
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Thank u...
I finished cleaning last night..80-90% cleaned..today morning the car din't want to start..cable charge+pushing accelator many time and yahooo..started with a white smoke and no more misfiring till now..I have to drive for awhilr to throw out the remain chemical..
I will get back 2 u later if anything happened..
 
  #13  
Old 10-11-2018 | 08:10 AM
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This sounds like you got it worked out good, Maidi3000. Glad we can help. Happy motoring.
 
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