When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
So, I got an ABS light in my 2006 R52. I pulled the codes and it indicated the wheel speed sensor. I decided to do a complete brake job and replace the sensors while I was at it on all four wheels. I started with the problem wheel, the driver side front. Pulled the tire, removed the sensor retaining bolt and pulled the wire that goes into the sensor...right off. I’ve done a few of these, so I know that if the sensor has been in the car for a while, it’s likely going to break off unless you remove the whole hub assembly and push it from the bottom. Not a big deal because I was replacing the sensor anyhow. I tried a screwdriver at first to pry out the remaining sensor. Then I used a small drill bit....CRITICAL ERROR!! The small drill bit went straight through the sensor and nicked the hub and the magnetic ring that sits in the back. The ring is what the sensor reads (basically highs and lows) as wheel speed. The sensor is expecting a certain number of pulses per revolution.
The big problem here is, I didn’t realize I nicked the ring. I put the new sensor in and did the brakes all the way around, changing out the sensors. Put it back together, drove it and ABS light back on. I pulled the codes and I got the code 5D92, which is....error with the speed sensor gear hub teeth, missing a tooth each revolution. As descriptive as this error is, it actually took me a little while understand what had happened. So, I pulled the hub, and there it was, a chipped gear from the drill bit. Lesson learned.. there is nothing wrong with drilling out the old sensor, just use a bit that is the exact diameter of the hole and don’t go all the way down. Or, the best way is to remove the hub, but we all know we aren’t going to do that ��
Looking at it i don't see any teeth. I do see a rubber like coating that is mucked up. If that's what is the speed sensor then i ruined one of my hubs while restoring everything on the suspension. The wire wheel on the bench grinder got away from me and it bit into that coating. Is my hub pooched also? I was thinking that it was but hopping that it wasn't LOL.
Looking at it i don't see any teeth. I do see a rubber like coating that is mucked up. If that's what is the speed sensor then i ruined one of my hubs while restoring everything on the suspension. The wire wheel on the bench grinder got away from me and it bit into that coating. Is my hub pooched also? I was thinking that it was but hopping that it wasn't LOL.
LOL!! Been there too. If you look down into the coating you will see some wires. The sensor passes over these and it causes a pulse. These are “teeth” I guess. Bottom line, as long as you didn’t break one, you should be ok. You’ll know soon enough 😃. Good luck with it.
its already installed but the car isn't finished yet. I'm doing a restoration on a 2008 clubby S. The material on the back of the bearing looks like a magnet, similar to what you see on those fridge magnets. Its probably positively and negatively charged to signal the sensor. Only an educated guess from working in an automated industrial environment.
its already installed but the car isn't finished yet. I'm doing a restoration on a 2008 clubby S. The material on the back of the bearing looks like a magnet, similar to what you see on those fridge magnets. Its probably positively and negatively charged to signal the sensor. Only an educated guess from working in an automated industrial environment.
its already installed but the car isn't finished yet. I'm doing a restoration on a 2008 clubby S. The material on the back of the bearing looks like a magnet, similar to what you see on those fridge magnets. Its probably positively and negatively charged to signal the sensor. Only an educated guess from working in an automated industrial environment.
I am working on a 2006 R52 that cost me $900. I also have a 2002 R50 black, and a 2004 R50 Green. The black is automatic.
Thanks for the post. You saved me a lot of diagnostic work after the 5D92 code appeared. I did the exact same thing drilling out the left front sensor. :(
02-21-2019, 02:44 PM
