Another reason why this site is my "go to" for all things Mini. The Fonzie thump worked instantly. Yeah, some day I'll probably have to pull the motor out... but not today!

 

My wifes 03r50 drivers side window went out. While following the instructions earlier posted, I was pulling down on the motor housing after I unplugged it and took the 3 (not 4) mounting screws out.

When I pulled down on it a small (approx. 1/2 inch long) spring popped out from somewhere and I have no idea where it came from. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

Jubilee's passenger-side window has been fixed for the second time thanks to the "Fonzie" method.

Now to figure out why the PS power door lock won't work...

 

It was probably a spring from one of the brushes.

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

And it looks like it was a hobbled replacement that someone previously had installed after losing the original. That spring is cut to length, a finished spring would have had both ends wound equally. That one will work however.

And this brings me to MY situation.

My drivers window decided not to go down any longer, hence the top won't function either. I have already removed the door panel and the proper way is to lower the window to remove the glass to remove the regulator to get the motor out. When I hit the switch I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking for a moment no matter if I move the switch to up or down. Hitting the motor, even directly with a screwdriver, doesn't make anything happen. The door appears to have been opened prior to my getting the car since there are obvious scratches in the paint from a PO using a screwdriver to pop the clips. What was done and when it was done I cannot say. If I can unplug the connector to the motor and remove the four screws can I pull the motor down and fiddle with the commutator and then put things back?

 

You should be able to remove the motor with the window up, and without messing with the regulator. It's a little bit fiddly, and helps to have some a very small screw driver bit holder (bottle cap sized), and some extensions, but that's how I did mine.

 

Thanks. I DID get the motor out/apart without removing anything else. And as I had posted in another thread, I do not believe the problem to be the motor itself. After reading all the posts by others, and looking at the pictures I realized that the "cleaning" being done was only removing the carbon film on the commutator that is a normal and necessary part of electric motor operation (think that 50 years in the motor repair business would give me some insight??!!) I found that the armature was very tight in one position, apparently the "up" position, but would moved the other way after a slight nudge, apparently the "down" direction. It seems to me that the problem is not the motors themselves, but the regulators going to their limit and jamming. The act of disassembly and cleaning simply moved the armature, relieving the tension at the extreme and allowing the motor to operate again.

I'm hoping to get my hands on a regulator to do an autopsy and see what, if anything, can be done to stop the problem from occurring again. When I opened my drivers door I found a number of scratches along the perimeter indicating that the door panel had been removed in the past (I only got my car last fall) probably to replace the motor once already. The passenger window motor was replaced in warranty when I bought the car from the dealer because the top went down and wouldn't go up. My problem this time was the top wouldn't go down because the drivers window ceased operating.

 

If you hold the switch up or down (up I think, but I can remember) for about 10 seconds, it's supposed to do some kind of reset telling the computer where the window is. Also, I've found on my car, for some reason, the passenger window will not roll down until the car is started, even though I can hear the relay clicking. The drivers side and sun roof don't do this.

 

Yeah, that's just the "indexing" feature to help to window "know" when it is all the way up. Apparently there isn't much slack in the cable because they are jamming. In fact I spoke to an auto mechanic yesterday about it and he said it's a problem in many cars although we didn't get into details.

And another puzzlement to me is that my drivers window only drops about 1/4" but my passenger window goes down a good 1/2" or more. I don't know where those setting are, probably hidden in the factory settings that you need a supercomputer to access!!

 

I seem to remember seeing options for that in NCS Expert. You don't need a supercomputer, just something capable of running an older version of Windows and the $30 OBD II cable and software off ebay.

 

Thanks. I'll look around and give it a look see.

 

The window was up, but I had the same issue in that my driver's side window would not go up or down.

All the directions above, especially the photos, were very helpful, but my issue was not the motor. After cleaning the motor, I connected it to the wiring harness before installing it and the motor ran fine by itself, even without having a bearing on the drive end.

It turned out all the cables and tracks needed lubricated. I used white lithium grease on all the cables and tracks then worked the window up and down the the motor removed until it loosened up. After installing the motor again everything operated just fine.

Thanks for the helpful information.

Vila. Wife's 2003 Yellow Cooper S 6 speed

 

Here's my issue, not completely certain it fits in this thread:

2008 R55 Clubman
- Drivers-side window won't drop when opening door
- Drivers-side window won't auto-up
- When I manually hold to toggle to roll the window up, it'll go all the way up and then go halfway down

- It DOES auto-down
- Passenger-side is fine.

Thoughts?
I tried the manual-reset mentioned here (hold toggle up for 10 seconds)

 

You may have to hold the toggle switch for 10 seconds or more in both the up & down positions to reset both ends of the window travel.

 

I've been putting off & putting off fixing my passenger side window motor for too long!
Since the problem seems to be mostly 'crud' in the motor, is there any viability to drilling a tiny hole in the top of the motor & blow the crud out with a DustOff or switch cleaner aerosol?
I can't tell from the photos where would be a good place to drill. Any ideas?

 

That site isn't so sooper! Doesn't lead to anything but an obnoxious site promising $$!