Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

2010 Mini Cooper S cranks but not start, no spark

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Old 04-21-2019 | 12:36 AM
Roberto Gonzales's Avatar
Roberto Gonzales
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2010 Mini Cooper S cranks but not start, no spark

Hello, I have had my r56 for around only 4 months and only put 1k miles on it. I got home one day from work and went to leave to go out with friends and my mini started and idled around 1000 rpm then stalled. It did this a few times and now won't even start, it does crank fine. So I then did the basic test on fuel pump, hpfp, cam pos sensor, crank pos sensor, injectors, and finally coil pack and sparks . I found no spark in the plugs so I tested the coils and no power was being sent when trying to start. I replaced my battery knowing it wasn't the problem just old and needed to be replaced. I checked all fuses and relays they all check out. if anyone has had similar problems PLEASE help me! I work at Wendy's and can't afford to take it to the shop XD
 
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Old 04-21-2019 | 04:50 AM
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NeonLed
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From: Bradenton, FL


Check to see if this connection (circled in red) is loose. Its the ground for the ignition coils.
 
  #3  
Old 04-21-2019 | 08:01 AM
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gpop
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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nition/XEOYA6I

This tells you how the ignition system works (coils)

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nition/ZiEgFP4

This shows you where it is getting power from

Unfortunately many of us have had similar problems which means many of us also own a bmw/mini scanner (it should have set the check engine light by now). Maybe if you post your location you might get lucky and find someone local that is willing to test the car. (checking the fuses and relays in the engine bay is a good place to start)
 
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Old 04-21-2019 | 09:36 AM
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Roberto Gonzales
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Yes, it is secured this was the first thing I checked thank you for the advice though.

Check to see if this connection (circled in red) is loose. Its the ground for the ignition coils.[/QUOTE]
 
  #5  
Old 04-21-2019 | 10:01 AM
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Roberto Gonzales
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Originally Posted by gpop
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nition/XEOYA6I

This tells you how the ignition system works (coils)

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...nition/ZiEgFP4

This shows you where it is getting power from

Unfortunately many of us have had similar problems which means many of us also own a bmw/mini scanner (it should have set the check engine light by now). Maybe if you post your location you might get lucky and find someone local that is willing to test the car. (checking the fuses and relays in the engine bay is a good place to start)

Thank you, I am located in Mansfield, Ohio and I have checked all the relays and fuses multiple times. Do you think this could be a faulty dme?
 
  #6  
Old 04-22-2019 | 03:01 AM
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NeonLed
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From: Bradenton, FL
Originally Posted by Roberto Gonzales
Thank you, I am located in Mansfield, Ohio and I have checked all the relays and fuses multiple times. Do you think this could be a faulty dme?
I ended up having a faulty dme about a year and a half ago. The crank position sensor signal was grounding out inside the dme before the contact point for it. When they applied additional power to the wire the car would start up and run just fine. Ended up replacing it and was around $2k. I wish this happened after finding out you can buy a dme from another car and clone yours to it for a third of the cost. Here's a post talking about it. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4373591
 
  #7  
Old 04-22-2019 | 04:11 AM
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gpop
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To many things it could be before jumping to the most expensive parts. Do you have a volt meter and know how to use one?
 
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