2008 R56 S N14 87k. Got it home from a private party sale and not more than 2 days later.... Yellow half light on... and off.... and on... decreased engine power warning, but no CEL in the center cluster. No Fuel smell, runs like a non-turbo car (in comparison to my 2012 R59 Roadster S), but still gets up to highway speed (90mph). Took it to a dealer for diagnostic as we just bought the car a week ago, and I didn't have time to run through the steps.

Dealer verdict.... and I quote:
Found multiple issues. Performed short test, found Boost pressure fault followed test plan, found turbo to be faulty. Replace turbo $4,395 and vacuum pump $795, update software $188, Also found coolant pipe water pump to thermostat leaking $635.

I only paid $4k for the car... now I wish I paid much less.
Looks like I'm gonna get the wrenches out this weekend... anyone got any pointers or suggestions? Do I get a junkyard turbo? a lower mileage take off? Anyone got one? Figured I might as well do a few things while I'm here... HPFP? Coils? Plugs?

It's my wife's commuter so this thing has to be reliable to the tune of 120 miles a day every day. I'm in socal so I'm not worried about winter coming up, but still want to get this solid for her. Oh... and her sunroof sometimes doesn't want to open and slide all the way back. More to love. I have no idea where to even start on that.

 

The dealer is the last place you would want to visit. Personally, I would clear the codes and see what comes back and when. I had a member who was told the same thing only to find out his spark plugs were the issue!!! if you're keeping your minis for a while, it is worth getting ISTAD, NCS, Winkfp, INPA with K+Dcan USB cable. They are cheap and will payoff in the first use.

bookmark these two sites:

realoem.com
newtis.info

 

Is paying for a software upgrade normal?? Is there a way to get around that?

 

I didn't have to pay for my software upgrade, but I was also under warranty... and they fried my ECU when doing it, so I got a brand spanking new updated ECU out of the ordeal. I would assume they charged you like 1.25 hours of labor for the "upgrade" work, and that's where the cost came from.
As for the turbo, there are a bunch of direct replacement offerings out there, brand new for $1000 or less. You could even bump it up a notch to the dominator GT47 for about $1200 - $1400. Definitely don't buy it through Mini.... They charge Mini prices for the same thing you can get elsewhere for cheap. ECS tuning and Way Motor Works would probably have the best pricing for anything you could possibly need, and if you can wrench yourself, you'll save tons of money in labor charges.

 

Don't go with a used turbo it will just end up wearing out too and may be close to worn out. The new ones we have are cost effective and brand new OEM.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...8-r59-r60.html

We have the other parts too, but I would knock out the turbo and fix the actual fault first before moving onto those other repairs.

We also have an install kit for the turbo with everything we do in our shop
https://www.waymotorworks.com/turboc...8-r59-r60.html

 

Aargh. My wife's 2008 Clubman (I'm thinking they probably have the same engine) just took a dump yesterday and left her with the yellow engine picture light. It has 132K miles on it and has had regular "dealer" service. I checked fluids - no problem with oil and coolant. I scanned for codes. No codes. We left it alone over night and fired it up - started good, runs smooth, no missing. Engine revs fine. Took it for a short drive and it seemed okay. But the yellow engine light is still on...

Problem is I am not even close to any good foreign engine mechanics. Nearest VW/Subaru place is still 50 miles away. They say they'll work on MINIs, but...

Is there anything else I could do to diagnose the problem. The nearest MINI dealership is 270 miles and 3 mountain passes away - probably not a good plan to take it over and they're calling for snow in the high country tonight...

I've heard the horror stories of the dealer service reps saying $5,800 and we'll have you out of here with no light on (and no guarantee it won't come on in 30 minutes for another reason). I have a 2002 R53 and I'm almost ready to leave the MINI club just because we're in our late 60's and don't need the drama anymore.

Anybody have any advice on what to try next to get closer to a possible fix?

 

Waymotorworks, I'll check out your stuff. I actually did ALL the other repairs anyway. New Thermostat Housing (just because) now thermostat to water pump pipe because the old one was cracked (source of the leak), new vacuum pump, new intake manifold gasket, new throttle body gasket, cleaned the intake manifold and throttle body ALOT (oil and carbon all over the place). Now I'm putting it back together...

 

If it’s in limp mode, there are codes.
What are you reading them with? There are some manufacturer proprietary codes that a general code reader won’t see. ECS has the Schwaben scan tool for a good price. Less than when I got mine. It has the BMW software to read the codes that aren’t being seen.
as an example, not long after I got my R60 I was having the half power engine light/limp mode. While it was still actively in limp mode, I had the codes read at autozone, and their reader showed “no codes present” then I went straight to a local BMW repair shop, had them scan it, and they pulled 6 codes.
they are there, you just can’t see them, most likely.

 

usmc mitch,
Dont go through the dealership!
You can get a turbo for a good price from JMTC or JMTurboCoopers. It’s where I got mine, I’m happy with it and the warranty.
they offer a year warranty and bump it to 2 years if you replace or refurbish your downpipe.
under a grand, it’s a good deal. Doing the work yourself it’s not too bad. Put it in the service position to get more room. If it’s leaking, now is the perfect time to replace the gaskets on the oil filter housing as well. The gaskets are only about 40 bucks and a shop quoted me $800 for labor! Pfft!
The water pipe is a known leaker after a while. You can do it yourself pretty easy, just remove the intake manifold, it’s underneath it against the block. You may want to consider replacement of the water pump and thermostat while you are doing it, as it sandwiches between them.
the vacuum pump is super easy to test. And right there on the side of the head next to the HPFP. Easy to replace yourself.
save some $$ and get out your wrenches!
But first, I would, like mentioned above, clear the codes and see what comes back before you start throwing parts at it.

 

Update.
Replaced the thermostat housing, water pipe, and vacuum pump. I got the ECT wire mixed up, had constant temp 285. Fixed that.
Running ALOT better. Still have reduced engine power light (half yellow) no middle console hard light. It's had about 400miles, but it feels infinitely better.
I'll put in diagnostics tonight and pull the codes. I think I have 2.
Debating what to do next.

 

Got a dealer to do thje ECU upgrade for free. They cleared the code. Paperwork says it's a boost pressure regulation error. Drove it for about 25 miles, error code and light came back. Turbo replacement needed?

 

Did you get this resolved? There is a pressure converter (blow off controller) 11657599547 and a sensor 13627535069 in the system that might be bad. Or the turbo. Just asking for future reference.

 

It's not resolved.... I'm about to swap a turbo. Where is the sensor? I already replaced the converter and it didn't solve my problem.

 

Number 5 in the illustration:https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_1206

Courtesy RealOEM.com

 

Awesome... No dealers open on Sunday... wonder if Autozone has that bad boy. What are the odds this is my problem? I've got another turbo that I was about to swap today, but if this sensor is the real issue... I wonder if I should wait and do this first instead of swapping the turbo first. I also have to get gaskets to do the turbo swap I think...

 

Isn't that always the question. I can't diagnose from here I know I changed my turbo out on the 2007 because it was diagnosed by the previous owner's shop as needing to be replaced due to burning oil. I also got the reduced power symbol as I was driving home. New turbo, new oil lines, new valve cover, new pressure sensor, new coolant lines, aux water pump, vacuum pump, and O2 sensor later... it still burns oil, but the reduced power symbol is gone (I now suspect it was the blow off controller). Should have stuck with my original guess, valve guide seals, which I get to do next whenever I am home long enough.

Bottom line, without a full diagnostic from BMW (and then it still is suspect), it is hard to tell which is why we (I should say I) tend to shotgun parts at it. It is actually cheaper than the dealership diagnosis, that is if you replace the right part.

 

Replaced the sensor... still getting the light. Turbo swap next... Is there a gasket kit somewhere? Autozone?

 

FCP Euro has them

 

Seems a consensus is to replace the oil and coolant feed and return lines while I'm at it... anyone disagree? Wish there was a one stop shop for these parts...

 

Since you will have the turbo out also change the oil filter housing seals. Mine started leaking right after I changed the turbo and all its lines. And if you are really ambitious do the oil pan gasket too. Unfortunately that is the sequence I am going through right now chasing oil leaks... turbo with lines, then oil filter housing, now oil pan gasket. Should have done them all at once.

 

Okay... Tell me I didn't take this all apart just for what I think I found.... Look at the wastegate rod...And the nuts or lack thereof. The first photo is the Turbo that I just took off. The second is the low mileage takeoff I bought to replace mine. the third photo is a side by side. Can anyone confirm this would have caused my problem all along? I'm going to put it back together tomorrow... Anyone got any thoughts here? This happen to anyone else?


Old Turbo I just took off... Look at the waste gate rod/valve

Low Mileage take off that I bought to replace my "faulty" turbo

My current Old Turbo on left Low mileage take off on the right

 

Yes there is supposed to be a nut there. It appears the wastegate would never had closed.the way it is set up, i.e. no boost.

 

That's what I was afraid of... I've been throwing $$$ and parts and expanding my profanity for the lack of a single nut.... So... while it's off, what else should I do? Oil filter housing gasket I hear is a good one while I'm there. I figure I might as well replace the Oxygen sensors, new exhaust manifold gasket. Basically.... I don't want to have to take this thing apart again for 30k if I can help it.
I've already replaced the thermostat, the vacuum pump, the coolant pipe, boost pressure sensor, and blow off controller/sensor... I also cleaned the intake and replaced those gaskets, cleaned the throttle body, new air filter... I'll be glad when this is all done. Hopefully it actually works.

 

Maybe swap the oil feed pipe to the turbo, one of the things I have done while the turbo is off mine.

Steve