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ECU Replacement Required?

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Old 10-22-2019, 01:20 PM
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ECU Replacement Required?

Background: 2009 JCW 103k miles, CA car, running fine until one morning, the car went into limp mode and was without power... died a couple of times even in limp mode.Once home (where it saw over the next couple of days) it would barely start and I only managed to get it running a couple of times..

Pulled code P0190 (fuel pressure sensor), bought and replaced with new part and car cranks hard, but wouldn't start. Doubled checked the fuel pump (even gave it a good old whack, just in case) and still no dice. Checked code again and this time it showed P163E (Voltage Monitoring Control Module Communication Error). I pulled the ECU connectors and blew/cleaned both ends, but no dice.

I'm leaning towards the ECM/DME/ECU failing, but want to see what you think and see if I'm heading in the right direction. Other observation/symptoms the car currently has that kinda clue me in to ECU failure are: BMW/Mini code reader randomly reboots or goes blank while connected to the car (I made sure it was tight) like it lost connection to the car, other minor errors have thrown codes once or twice (such as gauge cluster issues, seat belt warning, and a couple of others - I can't recall the codes) when I cranked the car. I could clear these no problem. Another weird thing is when cranking, the digital display below the speedometer intermittently blanks out.

Battery is strong @ 11.75V. Fuel @ 3/4 tank, ambient temperature 40-50 F

Hope you can share your 2 cents! Thanks!
 
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:01 PM
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11.75v on your battery is well under healthy. A good battery should be pulling 13-14v. I would have it tested because MINIs are particularly sensitive to low voltage.
 
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Leong
Background: 2009 JCW 103k miles, CA car, running fine until one morning, the car went into limp mode and was without power... died a couple of times even in limp mode.Once home (where it saw over the next couple of days) it would barely start and I only managed to get it running a couple of times..

Pulled code P0190 (fuel pressure sensor), bought and replaced with new part and car cranks hard, but wouldn't start. Doubled checked the fuel pump (even gave it a good old whack, just in case) and still no dice. Checked code again and this time it showed P163E (Voltage Monitoring Control Module Communication Error). I pulled the ECU connectors and blew/cleaned both ends, but no dice.

I'm leaning towards the ECM/DME/ECU failing, but want to see what you think and see if I'm heading in the right direction. Other observation/symptoms the car currently has that kinda clue me in to ECU failure are: BMW/Mini code reader randomly reboots or goes blank while connected to the car (I made sure it was tight) like it lost connection to the car, other minor errors have thrown codes once or twice (such as gauge cluster issues, seat belt warning, and a couple of others - I can't recall the codes) when I cranked the car. I could clear these no problem. Another weird thing is when cranking, the digital display below the speedometer intermittently blanks out.

Battery is strong @ 11.75V. Fuel @ 3/4 tank, ambient temperature 40-50 F

Hope you can share your 2 cents! Thanks!
cooper48 hit it. A battery producing a voltage of 11.75V is at 30% charge. I'd consider the battery toast and replace it. Batteries are never the same after being discharged too low.

But be sure the alternator puts out sufficient power. With the engine idling at the battery posts the voltage should by nearly 14V. Check it after cold start but check it at other times too. Not with a MINI but with another car the alternator would be fine at a cold start but over 15 to 30 minutes its output would drop to the the point the battery was supplying all the electrical power for car.
 
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:47 PM
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UPDATE
My battery was at 12.2V idle today and I cranked it, but doesn't turn over. Displays don't dim while starting (usually indicative of weak battery or starter), but a couple of warning indicators show on tach gauge LCD (but not physical lights in said gauge, except for check engine light), such as ASC/DSC with small exclamation next to it, and seat belt warning.

Codes 2BD0/P163e still remain.

I read somewhere that connectors along the wiring from the ECU/DME to the harnesses may have oil on them. I might look for that tomorrow and see if I find any and clean with electrical contact cleaner and rag.

This is probably the first time I've had a Mini issue where I just don't know which direction to head to in terms of a fix.
 
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:15 PM
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Aaron, 12.2v is still too low for the battery and your systems to operate properly. It should be pulling close to 14v. Your MINI is especially sensitive to low voltage (even 1-2 volts) that can cause a plethora of issues seemingly unrelated to the battery. Who do you know that has a proven battery (same starting amps) that you can swap into your MINI? The low voltage also indicates an alternator malfunction so you'll want to get that checked out as well.
 
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
Aaron, 12.2v is still too low for the battery and your systems to operate properly. It should be pulling close to 14v. Your MINI is especially sensitive to low voltage (even 1-2 volts) that can cause a plethora of issues seemingly unrelated to the battery. Who do you know that has a proven battery (same starting amps) that you can swap into your MINI? The low voltage also indicates an alternator malfunction so you'll want to get that checked out as well.
yes... I made mention of this in the other thread....our cars need proper voltage.....find the cause of low voltage and fix that first....

Bryan
 
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