This will be a long thread so thank you in advance for reading it all and still having the time to reply.

About a month ago my R56 A/C didn't work. Since my previous experience, even a fuse can cause it not to work right! Well, I decided to pull Fuse 23 "10a" with the battery still plugged in. The fuse was good so I put it back in its spot and tried turning my car over to move it, my car wouldn't crank. Interior lights would turn on but wouldn't crank over. so I did the following.

1. Unplug the battery ground and one at a time I pulled out all the fuses.
- Still having the same problem, and putting them back where they came out of.
2. Bought a new starter
- Didn't even do anything problem was still there
3. Replaced the main Relay on the fuse box "Black cube" (Located on the passenger side footwell).
- Still the same problem. I did find out that the fuse controls part of the wipers and lights.
4. Replaced the Fuse Box
- Still the same problem. I returned the fuse box...
5. I got it Diagnosed at this point and it came with something about Terminal 50 output
- shop said it was a bad "CAS module" and indeed was a bad CAS module! KEEP READING!
- I pulled out the original CAS module and it had a burnt spot, Some local car key shop was able to solder some wires into the main chip to clone the information.
6. I was able to pick up a used one and had it Programmed and coded (Cloned). set to VIN were the key works and everything.
- Plugged it in but now a different problem happened.
Now that I have a Cas module this is my current problem

Whenever I plug in the key and press Start/Stop Button My whipper goes crazy and the dashboards lights don't turn on.
- I would sit in my car, the driver's side. close the door and before I even plug the key in I see a Locked and a steering wheel in red. I plug the key fob in and you see the key in yellow, it reads it! but as soon as press the button, wipers go crazy and the car still doesn't turn on.
Now before the CAS module was even here I was able to turn my car on by popping the clutch. not with the Start/Stop button, but it wasn't practical and the car would die shortly after. it would only run on battery and not the alternator. Since the CAS module controls basically everything.

There is this other Module that is located on the Drivers side Footwell and after unplugging it and plugging it back in it seemed that the wipers issue stopped. However, the car still doesn't turn the ignition on. I can't read the codes either.
so at this point, I don't know what to do anymore.

Problem. Car ignition won't turn on.

This is a complicated problem and probably confusing as well so please comment down where you got stuck so I can clarify you with more information.

EDIT: My battery is from 2007, lol I know but I would charge it to its potential and still the same problem. Either way, I will be replacing the battery!

 

When you connect to read the codes, doesn't it still communicate with the ECU/DME?

Where are you located?

 

It says something like “ cannot communicate with ________” I’ll have to hook it up to tell you exactly what it says !

 

If it cannot communicate with the ECU and your wirpers went crazy for a bit, that is an indication of bad/dead ecu or bad fuse box. Did you check the relays next to the ECU? Also did you check the *** box for water damage?

 

I did a final check on the fuse box but I didn’t check the relays under the hood lately, I did try looking for a relay that would power the ECU on google but couldn’t find anything. I opened up my ECU but there’s no burnt or any signs of a fried ECU. Under the hood on the relay box there’s 4 green relays and 3 smaller relays and just behind that there’s 1 more relax not sure what is for exactly I’ll have to do my homework on it. I’ll see if I’m even getting power or ground or if it’s even live. But also my battery for the cooper is the original 07 not sure if that could also be an obstacle, I’ve read on other threats that if it dies completely it will never be the same and will loose its potential.

And im in Nevada

 

I've had virtually no electrical problems so I can't offer much help online. However, if you're located anywhere near Reno, I could drive my '07 over and we could make some comparison readings. PM me if you're interested.

I can't imagine a 12 - 13 year old battery being any good, regardless of what test results might show. I've also read online that even a weak battery can cause all kinds of unusual grief. I strongly suggest you replace it and go thru the registration / initialization process.

 

Okay so, I was outside testing electrical components. I've realized that the ECU isn't getting any power. One of the tests that I did was Unplug the ECU (With battery Unplugged) then plugging the battery back in again. I would go and plug my key fob in (one click) and the same problem occurs. Which makes me think that the ECU isn't getting a power. Or even reading anything. The body control footwell module was tested and passed, so was the fuse box again. I know the CAS module is also good because I just had it cloned. Fuses and relays are good! even under the hood.

I'll see if I can pick up another ECU and I'll clone it as well so for now, I'm on standby.

 

This test (hi-lited) could also be the result of a weak battery. Are you sure it has a good charge? Can you beg / borrow / steal a good one and try it? Whole lot cheaper than an ECU!

 

For those who still read this you need to replace the steering wheel module the one with lights and indicator switch levers on this happened to me and it stops cas and dme communicating etc i ended up removing wiper fuse etc anyway remove it which is simple and read the part number on the disc buy a second-hand one off ebay $40 etc with same part number replace and full communication will be restored wipers and all lights will be ok. This is where i am at the min with my 2008 clubman s but still no crank so onto cas next.

 

Wiper goes crazy- I had the same problem when I accidentally reset my FRM module on ISTA. I was exploring ISTA looking for my own crank, no start solution. Eventually I got it under control by fiddling around on ISTA, forgot how it happened or if just by chance.

P.S. I could use some expertise on my own problem. I have a current diagnostic plan of attack that I’ve sussed out and was wondering if my logic was sound. Link to the post below. It’s a long post but the main part is clearly marked for those who can’t bother reading it all.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4593190

P.P.S. If you’re still having AC issues once you get your car running, even after replacing the JBE to take care of the AC relay, this might be your problem. Spoilers: it’s a faulty connector that prevents compressor clutch from engaging

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4097508

 

Hi Everyone, sorry for long post but my experience may be useful and hopefully someone can help me along...
R56 Cooper, 2007, 90k miles
Did all the timing gear about 18 months ago as cams had both slipped. All ok.
Just recently had the tri-fecta lights plus red steering lock and immobilisation.
Car ran and started absolutely fine (unless immobilised).
Researched the immobilisation - got ISTA+, reset ELV counter & bought & fitted lock motor emulator.
Padlock comes back though!!
Chap who sold me the emulator says please check connections in CAS module - some of his customers have solved issue by soldering the push connectors on the CAS...
I'll come back to this....
So the ABS lights etc.... sometimes the car is fine, sometimes the warnings come on after a short distance. When it happens the fuel gauge goes weird, seems to happen at corners/roundabouts - it goes to empty and back again. Also speedo stops working.
Other things thinking back over the past few months... on odd occasions car has cranked without starting (only 2 or 3 times), wipers came on once when I was fiddling and wouldn't stop. I've noticed that the remote key fob sometimes takes more than one press to open or lock.
Regarding codes:
93FB: No message (veh speed) from DSC,ACSM/MRS receiver/DSC transmitter
6115,6116,610F EPS: message error wheel speeds
5E01,5E02,5E00,5E03: DSC speed sensor (each wheel) - short circuit
2FF6: DME: veh speed signal
A0B5: CAS: fault, road speed signal
A3AC: message (distance travelled) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
5E52: DSC CU, monitoring error
5DD4: DSC CU, internal fault
5DE8,5DD9: DSC CU, internal fault
5DAA: DSC hydraulic unit, supply, pump motor
D35D: Message error CAS, receiver DSC, transmitter CAS
E194: No message, receiver CCC/MASK/RAD2, transmitter CAS
A0AA: CAS: control unit fault
I'm a real novice to this stuff but like to learn and have been on a steep learning curve re ISTA, wiring diagrams etc... I have by no means extensively checked the wiring but there's no sign of water ingress or damage anywhere. I've had the car since it was about 3 years old so know most of its history. I convinced myself it had to be a faulty ABS module as ISTA said it couldn't communicate, so I sent int off to be fixed - but got it back as no fault. So after the pain of removing it, I had the pain refitting and how the hell was I going to bleed it. Fortunately I did it when the car was feeling ok and ISTA communicated to it for about half of the bleed programme before losing it, which got them working again but my problem was still there.
Having studied the wiring diagrams to the best of my abilities I noticed a lot of this seems to go through the CAS, and with the experience on the ELV emulator I decided to look at the CAS. I got it out and soldered the connector pins to the board. I'm not great at soldering but I think I did reasonably ok. I put it back in the car half expecting it to not work but it did, and no fault. I went for a drive which was fine. I left an ELM dongle plugged in the OBD and left it thinking that hadn't gone too bad, but it might just be a lucky run - as I say the faults are intermittent. Anyway, a few hours later I decided to hook up the laptop and check for faults (K-can cable). It took a few presses of key, I hooked up with ignition on, engine not started. OBD seemed to have turned off so pulled it out and put it in again. Decided to start car. It cranked but no start, and I could smell burning and smoke from under dash. I reached in and pulled out the CAS connector before it set on fire but it's well burnt.


brown wire insulation melted, pin 12 I think, which is main ground


So, I'm now a bit stuck. I fear it could have been bad soldering - but I drove it fine for about 10 minutes, stopping once, getting out of the car locking it and restarting...
I'm thinking I need to buy a second hand CAS and sent it to someone with mine for them to clone it for starters. New connector, fix fried wire(s), but then I'm going to be scared of plugging in the 'new' CAS..
Also, my wife lost the spare key years ago, so would this be an opportunity to buy a second hand CAS with 2 keys (trivial in the scheme of things but useful).
Your advice would be greatly appreciated please
Dave

 

I have a foxwell scan tool that lets you reset the errors in the steering wheel settings then a click happens up under the fuse box and it lets the car start again