Hi folks, I'll be decapitating an '09 R55 Clubman next weekend and have been smurfing the interweb, watching videos and reading my Bentley in preparation. I believe my issue is going to be a burned valve on cylinder 2, but of course won't know until I lift the head. My question is once the cam sprockets are removed, could I lift the head off without removing the crank sprocket bolt and chain assembly? Along the way, earlier in life this car had the upgraded timing chain put in by the Mini dealer long before I got it. Don't know if that makes a difference. I would remove the two torx bolts in the head holding the chain guide housing, but can I get away without removing the crank bolt? I'd just rather make it simple and not have to worry about that getting away from me later after retorquing it. Thoughts from the Collective?

 

You could remove the head with only removing the T bolt on the head holding the right bracket. I personally think you need to, at least, loosen the crank bolt for the reinstallation of the timing chain. Also, don't forget the 10mm bolt holding the intake manifold. it is pain to remove if rusted :(

 

Thank you MTB. I think I will give it a go and see if I can avoid disturbing the crank bolt. It will be a tough one to reset and really, once it's loosened I believe it will have to be replaced? Torque to yield bolt? On other cars I've worked on cranking down that bolt isn't too bad with the car in the air where you can get a big pipe on the torque wrench to really hit it, but when you're working on the ground with the car on jack stands you don't have that luxury.

Hondas have the same type of intake manifold support bolt configuration. If you have an articulating arm its really quite simple...

 

The chain is going to fall off the crank sprocket once you take the top end off. So I would just remove the crank bolt and pull the entire timing chain assembly out as one unit as that is how it goes back in. You won't have to worry about getting it back on the sprocket right or anything this way. Taking the crank bolt out isn't hard anyway.

 

As Way mentioned, removing the bolt isn't hard. I do all my work on jack stands and never had an issue removing or installing.
As far as reusing the bolt goes, personally, I've done it both ways. The bolt is huge and can take some beating. Imagine the intake cam bolt, same spec but with initial 30nm vs 50nm. Point is, how perfect and close to following the procedure do you want to be.
finally, setting the timing, my method , requires torquing the crank bolt last.

 

MTB, please expand on how you set the timing. My main concern is not getting the crank bolt tight enough and having it slip out of time when running. Perhaps I am being too cautious. I have new cam and crank bolts ordered, pick up tomorrow. I have a top end gasket set and a new set of valves on hand for my deep dive on Saturday. Not sure if I'll need valves, though my suspicion is a burned valve on #2.

Another possible cause could be broken lands on the piston. How common is this actually?? I have talked to one local fellow who has seen two engines with broken piston lands on 2 JCW engines (2009 model), and that is his prediction for my mill. I have a 2009 Clubman S. The issue is very low compression on cylinder 2. Who's a betting man (or woman)?

 

the spec calls out for 50nm then 180 degrees. never had an issue with these numbers...My way of doing the timing (this is not up for debate) after locking everything and installing the bolt just enough that I can rotate the kit without getting stuck. Once that is setup, I torque the intake cam bolt (20nm + 90 deg + 90 deg), the timing chain tensioner (80nm), the exhaust cam bolt (20nm + 90 deg), then and last thing is the crank bolt (50nm + 90 deg + 90 deg {sometimes I add another 30 deg because I don't always use the angle wheel attachment})

 

The head is now off. 7 hours, taking my time. The symptom was no compression on #2. The cause: ..... two burned exhaust valves on #2. I’ll change all the valves since I’m in there. No damage to the head, piston, or cylinder wall.

BTW you CAN remove the head without removing the timing chain. Just remove the two right guide bolts to allow the two guides to collapse towards each other, and support the chain (I used a bungee cord hooked to the open hood.